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9n carb leaking fuel when choke is open

F

Farmer@Heart

Member
This message is a reply to an archived post by NOXJohn on February 06, 2009 at 06:46:46.
The original subject was "Re: 9n carb leaking fuel when choke is open".

Old thread, new question.

My 2N is also leaking without shutting off the shut-off valve and I don't ever want to forget and have a fire or potential. So the last advice given above my reply is to buy a rebuilt carb. But when I go to Fuel System/Parts for the 2N I see that the rebuilt is more expensive than the new Marvel-Schebler replacement one.

Rebuilt http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-2N_Carburetor-Rebuilt_1302CARB.html
New http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-2N_Carburetor-New_8N9510C.html

Question. Does anyone know if the new ones are considered inferior to the rebuilt ones? Sometimes newer ain't better.

I know rebuilding myself is cheaper, but I will do that with the one I take off, rather than get the $50 core charge back, so I can practice later.
 
maybe only the "float" needs to be adjusted???? did you try gently whacking the side of the carb. with a rubber mallet and see if the choke frees up ? that has worked for me in the past.
 

i'm with steve. it sounds like nothing more than a sticking float.

as far as your question goes, rebuilt is definitely favored here over replacement.
 
Why would anyone rebuild or buy a carb just to reduce the chance of gas leakage, if the carb was working well otherwise? A new valve and seat is only $5 and not hard to replace. Oh, add 65 cents for new gasket too and do the job right.

Besides, you can replace the carb or the valve now, but soon or later it will start leaking again. Better to learn to turn it off now.

Oh, Red Rock has an electric solenoid valve that shuts it automatically.
 
Steve, no I haven't tried that, but I will, thank you. Not clear on how one adjusts a float. And I didn't see that in the Tips page. No I don't yet have a manual but I am planning on buying one, along with other parts needed.

And thanks HFJ, if the tapping with a rubber mallet doesn't work I'll keep that in mind. That's exactly the kind of to the point answer I was hoping for.

kylemorley "Why would anyone rebuild or buy a carb just to reduce the chance of gas leakage, if the carb was working well otherwise?" Probably because as I stated "I know rebuilding myself is cheaper, but I will do that with the one I take off, rather than get the $50 core charge back, so I can practice later." That should have given you a clear indication that this is my first carb rebuild and I don't want to make any mistakes. I don't have any spare 2N's sitting around and I've got work to do.
 

Perhaps you should consider having your carburetor professionally rebuilt by forum member Royse. He rebuilt mine and i got it back better than new. He even mounted it on his own tractor to test it and dial it in. When you get it back it's plug and play.
The general consensus on this board is that the new carbs aren't very good.
 
I think I was trying to say that replacing a needle and seat are not in the same league as rebuilding the carb. You got a very common problem, why look for a complicated solution? The needle and seat are frequent troublemakers - mine, which never leaks, started leaking yesterday when I turned the gas on after the machine had been sitting for 2 weeks, when the hammer didn't fix it I pulled the carb, found some crud on the seat, cleaned it and all is well again. This happens to me a couple of times a year, I'd hate to have bought a new carb every time this has happened over the years.

 
I guess from how it worked out for you that makes sense. Don't know how it would work out for me. If this is going to happen frequently, as I don't work my tractor full part, barely part time, I have to figure out a better solution. Thanks for the info.

But I will say, that the way you stated your opening phrase in your first co mment, sounded really rude. You are probably not that type of person, it just landed bad for me. But I'll let that one fly by, cause sometimes I'm also in a mood that can offend, and I sure hope I'm not that kind of guy either. Thanks again.
 
Farmer@Heart, you got it right, Kyle was trying to be helpful
and likely was as those needle valves do get dirty and won't close.
Doesn't take much, just a spec of dirt/rust is enough.
They will also leak by if the gasket under them is bad or not tight.

I wouldn't call it a common problem on a tractor with a clean
fuel system, but they're old tractors and many aren't clean.
If your gas tank is rusty or has a bunch of sand/dirt/chaff in
it then I can see how it would repeat regularly.

Especially if you are missing any of the three screens that are
supposed to be there to keep that stuff out of the carb.
One on top of the sediment bowl assembly inside the tank, one
at the top of the glass sediment bowl and the third attached to
the inside end of the brass elbow going into the carb.

As ScoutB mentioned, I rebuild them for a lot of folks here.
I have some spares I would sell.
I would also help you rebuild yours via email or over the phone.

I prefer the original Marvel Scheblers.
Second to that, the cheap, gold colored ones YT sells.
I avoid the black aftermarket ones.
 
Thanks Royce. Looks like my first step then is to see if all 3 filters are there. Today is not the day. Got a VA appointment and taking the bus usually takes up better than half a day, then there's my back strain from helping my Father yesterday. Sometimes my mind still thinks I have a strong body, but the hole I dug disagreed with me. Anyhow tomorrow is also not going to be the day as my Son and I are laying another course of cmu block for my new trailer parking space. So perhaps by Thursday or Friday I'll take a look. Hopefully I'll be able to take advantage of one of your offers, really appreciate that.
 
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