New governor...what did I do wrong?

Hi guys. I ordered a new governor as my old one was not adjusting based on load. I also installed a governor compensation spring as the tractor didn't have one on it. I noticed before I even started it back up that getting a bind in the linkage that goes from the throttle lever to the governor when trying to go to an idle. I put it just before it started to bind and fired her up. She fired up and idled. I tried to increase the rpms and now just a tap of the throttle takes it from idle to more than half throttle. The thing is so touchy that I go from idle to full rpms in 2 or 3 clicks. What did I do wrong guys?
 
Bruce,

I guess that is what I was looking for help with what to adjust. I don't understand why the same linkages would now bind going to an idle. I will re-read the manual to see if i missed something and re-check the spring tention on both the governor and compensation springs.
 
The compensation spring is not your problem. Too much tension on the main governor spring will cause your symptoms.
 

Thank you for this! The service manual is not very descriptive other than for an over reving condition. I didn't want to start adjusting any or all pieces in the system from hand lever to governor and mess it up further than what it is.
 

Ok so I'm stumpted...I removed the governor from the equation. The tractor will idle with the rod that goes from the carb to the governor pulled all the way towards the radiator. Just moving it 10% of its travel (towards the carb) takes it to what I feel should be 2000ish rpms (proofmeter on order). This is with the governor disconnected and only moving the rod by hand.

Now it does seem to be rather rich while it is doing this and I did put a new sediment bowl in at the same time I did the governor. Is it possible I knocked some gunk loose in the carb and now she's getting full fuel flow?
 
(quoted from post at 17:38:31 09/13/16)
Ok so I'm stumpted...I removed the governor from the equation. The tractor will idle with the rod that goes from the carb to the governor pulled all the way towards the radiator. Just moving it 10% of its travel (towards the carb) takes it to what I feel should be 2000ish rpms (proofmeter on order). This is with the governor disconnected and only moving the rod by hand.

Now it does seem to be rather rich while it is doing this and I did put a new sediment bowl in at the same time I did the governor. Is it possible I knocked some gunk loose in the carb and now she's getting full fuel flow?
ery little carb opening will produce high rpm with no load on an engine. Just normal.
 

So before I put the new governor on and sediment bowl (and ahem...electronic ignition...), it would idle at base of the throttle movement, then had a gradual increase in rpm all the way up to full throttle when the throttle lever had gone through its full sweep.

Now it goes from idle to full rpms in maybe 3 or 4 clicks of the throttle plate. I checked the tention on the governor spring and it seems to be the same as my old one. Not loose but not preloaded.

I don't think this is correct. The way it is, if I try to set the over revving screw, I'll have 3 or 4 clicks for a throttle lever.
 

The other thing, is how is the governor supposed to "add" extra throttle under load when the lever arm going from the governor to the carb cannot move further back (increase throttle), but only move forward independently from the other rod connected to your lever setting? Or under normal operation, does the lever arm connected to the carb stay back and load that spring? In which case, this new governor is not doing that...
 

So I see that some others have had the same problem when they switched their governors but no update as to how they fixed it and seeing as the person only has 17 posts and the thread dates back to 2012 I'm betting they aren't on here regularly.
 
(quoted from post at 18:28:10 09/13/16)
The other thing, is how is the governor supposed to "add" extra throttle under load when the lever arm going from the governor to the carb cannot move further back (increase throttle), but only move forward independently from the other rod connected to your lever setting? Or under normal operation, does the lever arm connected to the carb stay back and load that spring? In which case, this new governor is not doing that...
hen engine not running & you increase throttle, the gov arm connected to hand throttle (arm further from engine) will move toward rear of tractor AND since gov is not spinning, the flyballs are not acting to counter the spring, so the arm connected to carb(closest to engine) simply follows/is pulled rearward by spring, thus opening carb. If engine is now started, the flyballs sling outward, pushing the cupped disk toward the rear, which in turn will move an internal arm toward the rear and that will push the carb connected gov arm (closest to engine) forward, stretching the spring and slowing the engine. A balance between flyball force & spring tension will be the stable operating speed. If an engine load (hard pull of a plow) slows the engine, the flyballs now offer less spring opposing force, so the carb arm is now pulled more rearward, thus increasing carb opening to compensate for the heavy engine load & speed increases until the balance point is again reached.
 
Thank you! This makes way more sense. I was trying to figure out how the carb could be increased if the arm followed the hand throttle position. So at best, the governor can't increase the throttle more than the setpoint on the dash?
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:58 09/13/16) Thank you! This makes way more sense. I was trying to figure out how the carb could be increased if the arm followed the hand throttle position. So at best, the governor can't increase the throttle more than the setpoint on the dash?
ou can set dash throttle position to what seems to be a higher speed position than with carb at full throttle. Throttle increasing until gov carb arm is full speed as limited by the max speed adjust bolt below gov arm and at this point it is likely that you will still have plenty of room to increase hand throttle further, all the while stretching the gov spring, since carb gov arm is against max speed stop & can not move further. Now the engine would need to run very fast in order for the flyballs to overcome that well stretched spring!
 

No it means I'm going to try to get them to replace the new governor that was not working. The flyballs were not providing any resistance or feedback which resulted in the RPMs going from idle to 2200+ in 3 or 4 clicks of the hand throttle. In a pinch I could throw the old one back on and at least have full sweep of the throttle again just with no increase when a load is put on.
 
Well I pUT the old governor back on and I have full sweep of the throttle on the dash now. Returning the replacement a going to live with the old one.
 

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