It followed me home

Royse

Well-known Member
I hate it when they do that! ;)
1972 3000 Gasser. 8 speed, Live PTO, power steering, diff lock.
It runs pretty good, the gauges work, 3pt works well, rear
tires are pretty good. I have a spare set of front tires if needed.

It does need a little work.
Might need one rear rim. It has 24's on it instead of 28's.
It needs a new muffler and the left brake doesn't work.
It needs the carb cleaned but I know a guy who can do that.

It's missing the tin under the dash, not unusual.
Also missing the air filter cover. Anyone have those for sale?
Is the gauge cluster original? I would have expected it to say
Ford or Fomoco on the face somewhere but it doesn't.

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Picture for UltraDog

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Hey Royse, a friend has a 63-64 2000 and it has the same dash. Don;t know if that answers your question, just throwing it in. Where do you go to get things lie that to follow you home?
 
Found it on CL Kevin, I actually posted it on here a couple
weeks ago when my trailer was broken. Yesterday it was
still there and the price had came down to less than most
N's are listed for so I went and looked at it. The rest, as they
say, is history.

I got the left brake fixed. It just needed adjusting.
The the rod through the transmission is still a little sticky.
Brake drums still have assembly keepers on them and
the adjuster hole plugs were still in tact.

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It's about time Royse.
I know you have that 235? 3 cyl but don't
think you've ever run the thing.
I love those 3000s/3600s
I just think they're the best.
The tach is original.
The tractor must have been shedded most of
it's life for it to be so clean. Does the
hour meter work?
They usually failed early.
They do look better with 28s - more
balanced.
I might have an air cleaner cover. Yellow
one. I'll be going up to my property either
the 10th or the 17th and will look - if you
can wait.
There are 4 pieces, plus a bracket to
complete the under dash tin. I might have
part of a set here. Private stock.
Make you throw that key into the deal :)
I spent about 4 1/2 hours on mine this
weekend. Doing some bush hogging that I just
do once a year for brush control.
Then I got the snarly old RC running for the
first time this year. Used the back blade
and pulled the gravel back up the hill where
the rains washed it down.
Only ran it for about a half hour tho.
Wiring is completely Jerry rigged so it was
running on the battery.
I do have a soft spot for those 3 cyl
gassers.
They have a good snort to them when you put
them under a load.
Congrats to you. You will really like that
tractor.
 
Thanks Jerry. I think I'll like once I get the bugs worked out.
Yeah, that 335 keeps getting pushed to the back burner.
I need to split it and put a clutch in it. That's all I know it needs.
But other things, like this one, keep getting in the way!

Don't know about the hour meter, I haven't run it long enough
for it to click over if it does work. I drove it around, tested all
the gears, on and off the trailer, that's about it so far.

You are probably right on it having been shedded.
Paint looks to be original. Maybe a battery accident here?
Numbers on the sticker and the bell housing match so it
looks to be the original tin. Or at least the hood panel.

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Looks to be a nice find.

Who knows about the hour meter. They are notoriously unreliable but it's working and the tractor is a gasser and looks to be pretty straight. Could be original hours???

The tires look to be 14.9X24s. Nice tires for that tractor. They were called "flotation" tires in the day. They are considerably more expensive than 13.6X28s but the same OD. Optional equipment in the day. I like them.

It looks to have an SOS exhaust pipe. The bend is needed on SOS equipped tractors to clear the interlock cover.

There is no black magic in the Holley carb but they are sensitive to float adjustment and Ford speced the float to the 64th inch. I'm sure that you could rebuild the carb yourself but I would advise you to bite the bullet and buy the correct kit from CNH. Take both the carb model number and the tractor serial number to CNH to order your kit and make sure that you get a competent parts guy. Otherwise, look it up yourself online and order it from Messicks. If the Holley carburetor is working properly and the vacuum advance motor is functioning as intended the engine will respond to throttle/governor input well and fuel economy will be decent. Ford used the sophisticated (for tractors) Holley carburetor in the later years of gasoline powered tractor production to maximize fuel economy and throttle response.

Dean
 
Dean,
Depending on the brand, a 13.6x28 is most of 2" taller than a 14.9x24.
To me that extra height is noticeable aesthetically though I doubt there's much difference in the application of power.
This tractor isn't complete and the tires are new while his tires have some wear.
I do think the overall appearance is better with these 13.6 28s.
But I'm not expecting Royse to change his out for my sake. Wink
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[b:65d706cdc6][i:65d706cdc6]Think I would make this the nice looking FIL Machine, and sell the loader Jube, to help pay for the 3000 updates!!???

What ya say???

Gary 8) [/i:65d706cdc6][/b:65d706cdc6]
 
(quoted from post at 18:19:32 09/05/16) [b:d21538c3b3][i:d21538c3b3]Think I would make this the nice looking FIL Machine, and sell the loader Jube, to help pay for the 3000 updates!!???

What ya say???

Gary 8) [/i:d21538c3b3][/b:d21538c3b3]
b:d21538c3b3][i:d21538c3b3]

OOPS hit the wrong button.........Meant to be FEL machine!![/i:d21538c3b3][/b:d21538c3b3]
 
Right you are on the tires Dean. 14.9 x 24.
Question answered on the hour meter. It works.
Put six tenths on it today. I did find an issue though.
Power steering fluid leaking from just under the
steering wheel and it has water in it to boot.

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Fluid leak under the steering wheel is pretty common on those with PS.
But you have good skills and shouldn't have a problem replacing that upper seal - #35
Pull the hydraulic block and go through it - clean, inspect, etc.
And replace the lower seal #14 while you are in there.
I always replace both Orings #33
Hardest part about the job is pulling the cowel - and steering wheel.
There is a procedure for reasembeling the nut and washer on the steering shaft which is spelled out in the FO-31 manual that you want to follow.
Or Ask
I would purge the ps fluid and replace the filter in the pump too.
That's just how I do things.
Refill with 134D oil in it when you are done.


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Ken and I made a puller to pull the steering wheel that you can easily duplicate.
Otherwise you will often wreck the plastic hub trying to remove it.

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"But I'm not expecting Royse to change his out for my sake. Wink"

I don't mind the looks of the 14.9 x 24's, but it would look
better with smaller fronts so that it sat more level. LCG maybe.
I took those rear rims, centers and tires off today to check the
brakes. They are loaded. What a pain!

They are so close to the brake drum you don't have room to
hardly wiggle them around and get them away from the tractor.
So it will probably get 28's put on it just for that reason. The
24's sure make 1st/low a granny gear though. I liked that.

Thanks for the parts diagram and advice.
I'll have to tear it down. The oil will get purged and the seals replaced.
I don't have any fear of replacing the seals.
I can't let it set out there in the pole barn or use it with water
in it over the winter. It will freeze and break the castings.
Then I'd be in the world of parts chasing again.
Far easier to fix it ahead of time than to find castings.
 
I'm not delivering my loader Jubilee out there to you Gary!
Besides, I wouldn't sell the Jube for what I paid for this one. :shock:
 

N's and other tractors will go to the back of the line once you get it up and running.

That Holley is a different animal from the carbs you are use to work'N on, only a few (I am one of one of'em) that tackle them and luv'em, I have not meet one I could not fix :D even when they have been burnt down.

Do a search using my handle for the Holley and the same for the seal... U-dog's help helped me get over the skeerd part and I went the extra mile to install the sleeve on the steering shaft.

I have a few more thangs to add but its bed time..
 
Thanks Hobo, I'll look up your posts.
Obviously this carb needs to be cleaned, probably not much
more since it runs Ok, isn't leaking and the floats shut off the fuel.

I'm no stranger to the Holley's used on cars. Different I know.
I used to rebuild Holley 4BBL's sitting in the dirt next to the
1/8 mile oval dirt race tracks. Not the best settings but required.
They were/are the most attended to POS's in the world.
Want to win a race? Predator. Want to save fuel? Not so much! :)

I would love to hear the other things you have to add.
Once you get some rest that is. No rush on my part.
 
Royse, you get 28" wheels, I could use the good 24. Maybe tires too. My 3600 is missing
the dash tin too. Just a work horse for me so doesn't matter. Used it to pull 72 trees to the drive for log truck last week. They do pull hard. Guy helping me was suprised what it would pull. Mine runs good, (going to need a clutch soon), but do wish it looked more like that. Nice score.
 
Yeah, smaller fronts would do it.
You probably don't want LCG spindles on
it. They will lower the front end about
4". Unless you like goofball stuff :)
LCG will put that cheap steel oil pan (and
expensive oil pump just inside)that much
closer to those big rocks too.
I put a CI pan from an industrial on mine
to protect the bottom of my engine but
that required changing the bolster too.
But I had the parts. I did keep a set of
regular spindles and can raise it back up
easily.
A couple of things you will dislike about
that tractor is servicing the points and
that twin stick tranny does require more
shifting compared to a single stick. Two
reverses is nice though - Creeper and
Fast, along with more gears forward.
And you won't like pulling the cowel - lot
of fooling around there. Diesel cowel is
easier in that regard.
PS,I'm running cheesy 14" fronts on mine
so it's really low. Have some taller 14s
I'm going to put on it one of these days -
along with different lift arms, Brit
fenders and wide step plates.
Note the gear pump and filter is different
than your piston pump.
Back half is a 3600.
Mine needs serviced bad. All fluids,
filters, etc.
Tranny/rear end oil haven't been changed
in 10 or 11 years.
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I would look the positive battery cable over rear good,,, if not for the warring here mine was next to go up in flames... link in this post...

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=751736&highlight=cable

I use tisco carb kits as you know check fit and adjust aligment of the meter base gasket. If yours is OK I have made the gasket meter base to carb base. As for the float I am not a believer in issues caused by a float to low maybe to high but not to low. If the adjustment seams to be a issue you have a bad float BTDT got the tee shirt. Study the operation of the accelerator pump circuit the rest is standard and simple as it gets even simpler than a MS. I soda blast them if needed NO SAND they come with enoufh sand in'em LOL... Those Holley's are sweet as it gets learn it and add to your carb service.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=572172&highlight=spring

Dean has been of great help on them. One thing I like about the Ford side is normally the BS gets hammered and not as acceptable as you will find it on the N board.

Seal

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=750614&highlight=spring
 
I had heard of that before but glad you reminded me.
Mine has been re-routed over toward the center and
up behind the air breather elbow. At least it's not rubbing.
I like your setup better so I will probably swap it.
I got the steering seals ordered today. Not too bad price wise.

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Looks good! Thx again for the shoes, they were just what the Dr. ordered and my pasture gate is safe again lol Mike
 
Glad your gate is safe Mike! :)
Everything worked out Ok with the seals and shims I take it?
 

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