8N front mount distributor 1950 model

countryboyky · Sep 4, 2016

Got it with a botched up job on conversion. mine has a wire coming out of distributor and one off the top of the coil. Most drawings I see dont show 2 wires. Any ideas as to where they should run to as he has done a botch job on it.

JMOR · Sep 4, 2016

(quoted from post at 15:54:09 09/04/16) Got it with a botched up job on conversion. mine has a wire coming out of distributor and one off the top of the coil. Most drawings I see dont show 2 wires. Any ideas as to where they should run to as he has done a botch job on it.

hat is each end currently connected to? Does it run?

countryboyky · Sep 4, 2016

from distributor goes to this block and then to ignition side of key, from coil goes to other side of block. alternator wire was fried and went 2" from alternator. I sent you an email Jmor earlier.

countryboyky · Sep 4, 2016

and no at this time doesnt run as wire from alternator is missing as in burnt off and wires from amp gauge are also fried and missing. some of the other wiring is in bad shape or fried also

HFJ · Sep 4, 2016

"wires from amp gauge are also fried and missing. some of the other wiring is in bad shape or fried also"

that's a problem - but just so u know...

"wire from alternator is missing as in burnt off"

that will not prevent the tractor from starting and running. for the rest, i leave u in JMOR's expert hands

Royse · Sep 4, 2016

Have you looked inside the distributor?
No need for that extra wire in the side for a 12V conversion.
My guess, he ran that for an EI conversion and it has no points.
Not a bad thing. Just need to know what it has to know how
the wiring should be ran. Either way, that white ceramic block
is not the preferred resistor. The original ballast resistor is.
Here is a link to one.

countryboyky · Sep 4, 2016

I dont see a link

Royse · Sep 4, 2016

Click the work "link".

countryboyky · Sep 4, 2016

there is no work link on my page.

countryboyky · Sep 4, 2016

apparently my computer is working in snail mode, it finally let me do link.

Bob · Sep 4, 2016

ZOUNDS!!! Someone has cleverly hidden a Pertronix EI in there!

Royse · Sep 4, 2016

Typo on my part. I meant to say the WORD link.
Picture shows EI as suspected, so I would believe that part
of your wiring was hooked to the correct spots. Module to keyed
power and the coil to keyed power through/after the resistor.
The wiring methods are poor and the resistor would not be the
preferred style but it would have worked.
I would replace them all and hook them to an OEM resistor.
The only difference from JMOR's 12V wiring diagram as far
as I can see is the key switched power wire for the module.

countryboyky · Sep 4, 2016

thanks so much for all the help up to this point. now this diagram being crude but it is how my wiring is ran right now. Could someone tell me what goes where, along with what gauge wire to use. I am assuming you mean to get the resistor that you linked for me?

countryboyky · Sep 5, 2016

so no response?

Royse · Sep 5, 2016

countryboyky when you reply to yourself the forum sends
different emails than it does when you reply to another user.
People may not see them or may not know who you are replying
too so they may ignore them not knowing it was meant for them.

If this was meant for me, I am having a hard time seeing the
picture. Could you email it to me in a larger version?
RoyseTractors at gmail.com

Otherwise I would follow JMOR's diagram for a 12V conversion
and simply hook the module positive wire to key switched power.
Before the resistor.

I still do not know why any wires would have been broke or
burned and yes, I would use the original ballast resistor.
Both for the positive temperature coefficient and because it
makes the connections easy to do in a central location without
using those "splice in" connectors. They have always been
trouble for me in the past. I won't use them on anything.

JMOR · Sep 5, 2016

(quoted from post at 18:51:08 09/05/16)
so no response?

ee your e-mail

oldtanker · Sep 7, 2016

(quoted from post at 15:51:08 09/05/16)
so no response?

OK, I've converted 2 front mount 8Ns to EI. The wire that is coming out of the distributer as others have said goes to the ignition switch BEFORE the resistor (full battery power). The only reason for a 2nd resistor is on a 12 volt conversion that still has the 6 volt coil IIRC. Mine both have the 12 volt coil. The other wire that attaches to the coil is the line that would have that 2nd resistor only if it has a 6 volt coil! That should come off of the other side of the OE resistor.

I'll most likely do a poor job trying to explain this but to my understanding of the system the power feed to the coil goes as normal to the switch inside the EI unit that performs the same basic function as the points. The other wire that goes to the ignition switch is what actually powers the EI system.

Rick

8N front mount distributor 1950 model

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