Ford N wiring

Hello I am hoping someone can help me or possibly (JMOR). I bought a ford 9n maybe it's a 2n or 8n I was told it was a 9n but not 100% sure. I followed a guy by the user name JMOR from this site and used his wiring diagram and when I hooked up the 12v battery and turned on the key and the wires smoked and burned up. I am new to the tractor fixing world and I could use some help. A little info on the tractor- I bought the tractor for $500 from a farmer that was selling his home and moving he told me all the tractor needed was a new battery, the points to be replaced and the alternator replaced I replaced all of those with no luck of it starting I then replaced the volt gauge, the head light switch, key/ ignition switch, 12volt coil, distributor cap, and the resistor block still no luck. I then rewired the tractor thinking that this must be the issue. When I finished wiring the tractor I hooked the battery up and turned the key on it then smoked and burned the wire going to the key start. Does anyone know what the problem could be thank you

I followed this diagram below



http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z232/JMOR_photo/Charging/9N_2N_12v_alternator_voltmeter.jpg[/img]
 
Here is the photo of the diagram
a235234.jpg

a235235.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 15:46:21 08/21/16) Den n ms

It is a amp meter that I replaced
f you have amp meter and you wired it like this voltmeter diagram , that will burn wire.
Use my amp meter diagram.
 
If your tractor is a 9N/2N with an ammeter, use his 9N/2N diagram.
If you have a 3 wire alternator there are slight modifications.
JMOR also has those pictured in other diagrams.

39549.jpg
 
I followed this diagram and she's all wired up she try's to turn
over but the spark plugs r not getting spark there is battery
power getting to the coil but not to the spark plugs any ideas
on what could be wrong now, could it be from the alternator?
The alternator only has one wire hooked up according to this
diagram but there r too wire connectors on the side of the
alternator that r not connected to anything.
 

ps: i don't see why the differences would cause u to have no spark, tho - so u may have another issue.
 
(quoted from post at 18:35:46 08/22/16)
for a 3 wire alternator, u want this diagram:

mvphoto18693.jpg
othing to do with spark problem, but if alternator is 3-wire, you may need the dashed red lines & diode of the diagram that HFJ posted, but DO NOT change the ammeter connections of the previous diagram to match the HFJ diagram, as the you will then have the crappy/unconventional ammeter that reads only alternator output & never reads any loads.
 

"DO NOT change the ammeter connections of the previous diagram to match the HFJ diagram, as the you will then have the crappy/unconventional ammeter that reads only alternator output & never reads any loads."

ahh, since my ammeter wiring matches the latter one, i'm guessing you'd suggest i rewire it to match the previous diagram then :)
 
(quoted from post at 19:02:58 08/22/16)
"DO NOT change the ammeter connections of the previous diagram to match the HFJ diagram, as the you will then have the crappy/unconventional ammeter that reads only alternator output & never reads any loads."

ahh, since my ammeter wiring matches the latter one, i'm guessing you'd suggest i rewire it to match the previous diagram then :)
ifferent people have different wants/desires. That is why different diagrams exists. Your tractor, wire as you desire.
 
(quoted from post at 20:29:46 08/22/16)
(quoted from post at 19:02:58 08/22/16)
"DO NOT change the ammeter connections of the previous diagram to match the HFJ diagram, as the you will then have the crappy/unconventional ammeter that reads only alternator output & never reads any loads."

ahh, since my ammeter wiring matches the latter one, i'm guessing you'd suggest i rewire it to match the previous diagram then :)
ifferent people have different wants/desires. That is why different diagrams exists. Your tractor, wire as you desire.

it's an odd day when i don't choose to make an improvement that's both easy and cheap. i trust your judgement about wiring, and i will take for granted that i don't want a setup u consider crappy :)
 
(quoted from post at 20:00:11 08/22/16)
(quoted from post at 20:29:46 08/22/16)
(quoted from post at 19:02:58 08/22/16)
"DO NOT change the ammeter connections of the previous diagram to match the HFJ diagram, as the you will then have the crappy/unconventional ammeter that reads only alternator output & never reads any loads."

ahh, since my ammeter wiring matches the latter one, i'm guessing you'd suggest i rewire it to match the previous diagram then :)
ifferent people have different wants/desires. That is why different diagrams exists. Your tractor, wire as you desire.

it's an odd day when i don't choose to make an improvement that's both easy and cheap. i trust your judgement about wiring, and i will take for granted that i don't want a setup u consider crappy :)
hate that those 'alternator only' diagrams are out there in circulation, but once on the WWWeb, it looks like it is forever there. Those came about because I was asked to make them a 'pictogram' to [u:0153b67514]match[/u:0153b67514] the sorry diagrams that Tisco & Atlantic (& perhaps others) were sending out with their kits. The English was a poor translation, meaning someone in the orient drew up a diagram, having never seen an N tractor. The diagrams that I prefer have the ammeter connected to read "net", i.e., will indicate the net current flow into or out of battery (includes sum of loads & alternator output), which is how Ford originally did it and is the same as every American made car, tractor & truck that I know of did/does it. Now, for Hobo, there is a set of diagrams with a Voltmeter instead of Ammeter. Pick the one you like or roll your own. There is something for everybody! :wink:
 
I tested all of my wires with a meter tester I have battery
power going to everything 12.34 to be exact but the tractor
still will not start the coil is getting voltage. I was looking online
and a few people mentioned that the points have to be
adjusted when you install them I installed new points on the
tractor could this be the issue? All I did was put the new
points in and screw them on is there a way to adjust them and
if so what should they be adjusted to and how do you adjust
them?
 
(quoted from post at 22:20:24 08/22/16) I tested all of my wires with a meter tester I have battery
power going to everything 12.34 to be exact but the tractor
still will not start the coil is getting voltage. I was looking online
and a few people mentioned that the points have to be
adjusted when you install them I installed new points on the
tractor could this be the issue? All I did was put the new
points in and screw them on is there a way to adjust them and
if so what should they be adjusted to and how do you adjust
them?
y knee joint hurts. :cry:
 
There are many posts on the forum about how to gap the points
and set the timing. Complete with pictures. Both need to be done.
The pictures do a much better job explaining it than I ever could.

There is also a description of the procedure with pictures in the
I&T FO-4 manual. You will want this manual for many things while
maintaining your tractor. They're easy to get. YT sells them as
well as most local tractor supply places like TSC.

Points are gapped at 15 thousandths on a front mount.
 
(quoted from post at 21:49:59 08/22/16)
(quoted from post at 22:20:24 08/22/16) I tested all of my wires with a meter tester I have battery
power going to everything 12.34 to be exact but the tractor
still will not start the coil is getting voltage. I was looking online
and a few people mentioned that the points have to be
adjusted when you install them I installed new points on the
tractor could this be the issue? All I did was put the new
points in and screw them on is there a way to adjust them and
if so what should they be adjusted to and how do you adjust
them?
y knee joint hurts. :cry:
b:579e9f34d5][i:579e9f34d5]

My knee joints hurt from time to time......does that mean we are the same age.....just plain OLD!!!! :roll:

Gary[/i:579e9f34d5][/b:579e9f34d5]
 
(quoted from post at 23:16:13 08/22/16)
(quoted from post at 21:49:59 08/22/16)
(quoted from post at 22:20:24 08/22/16) I tested all of my wires with a meter tester I have battery
power going to everything 12.34 to be exact but the tractor
still will not start the coil is getting voltage. I was looking online
and a few people mentioned that the points have to be
adjusted when you install them I installed new points on the
tractor could this be the issue? All I did was put the new
points in and screw them on is there a way to adjust them and
if so what should they be adjusted to and how do you adjust
them?
y knee joint hurts. :cry:
b:a12ae211eb][i:a12ae211eb]

My knee joints hurt from time to time......does that mean we are the same age.....just plain OLD!!!! :roll:

Gary[/i:a12ae211eb][/b:a12ae211eb]
Too many knee jerk reactions in younger years? :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 16:57:25 08/29/16) Thanks everyone for your help and special thanks to JMOR. Tractor is running and driving
hank you and I'm happy for you that you got it running.
 

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