Ok So I am doing a 12V conversion on my 1940 9N. I bought a kit and had no problems with the brackets Now the wiring.The kit came with a wiring diagram but I don't seem to understand it. I am not as smart as many on here I guess. Does anyone have the patience to type out the wiring for me to do one wire hook up. (I need it to be broken down for me i.e. One wire from the key switch to the battery. One from the switch to the resistor etc.....My tractor has a volt meter not an amp meter (aftermarket obviously but I want to use it). I know there are lots of wiring diagrams on the forum but I am having trouble with them in my head. I am using a GEM style alternator and the kit cam with a 12volt coil and replacement resistor.
- Thread starter Willracin
- Start date
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
" I am using a GEM style alternator and the kit cam with a 12volt coil and replacement resistor. "
Typo? Did you mean a GM alternator?
How many wires does the alternator have?
By replacement resistor, do you mean the OEM ballast resistor? If so, and you have a 12v coil, that's all you need for resistors.
Tell us the brand of the alternator & how many wires it has & someone will be along soon to point you to the correct wiring diagram.
50 Tips
Typo? Did you mean a GM alternator?
How many wires does the alternator have?
By replacement resistor, do you mean the OEM ballast resistor? If so, and you have a 12v coil, that's all you need for resistors.
Tell us the brand of the alternator & how many wires it has & someone will be along soon to point you to the correct wiring diagram.
50 Tips
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
eBay, huh? Not a lot of tech support there.
JMOR's pictograph at the link will tell you how to wire a 1-wire conversion.
If we assume it really is a 12v coil and we assume it really is an OEM ballast resistor, then all will work fine.
Does the resistor look like the one in the picture?
You can measure the resistance in both the coil & resistor & make sure it's correct. The consequence of error is that the tractor will not start (too much resistance) or it will not have enough resistance & burn up the coil.
Your call. If you want to measure it, the coil should be at least 2.5 ohms & the resistor should be .3 ohms cold.
JMORs one wire alt 12v conversion
JMOR's pictograph at the link will tell you how to wire a 1-wire conversion.
If we assume it really is a 12v coil and we assume it really is an OEM ballast resistor, then all will work fine.
Does the resistor look like the one in the picture?
You can measure the resistance in both the coil & resistor & make sure it's correct. The consequence of error is that the tractor will not start (too much resistance) or it will not have enough resistance & burn up the coil.
Your call. If you want to measure it, the coil should be at least 2.5 ohms & the resistor should be .3 ohms cold.
JMORs one wire alt 12v conversion
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Duhhhhhh.....
Missed that.
Tnx
Missed that.
Tnx
Looks like you have got the info you need .
Feel free to ask all of the questions you want too , we don't get tire of takin N's .
One thing that will help is to break it down into the different systems ( divide and conquer ) there is the charging system , ignition system , starting system , your lights and volt meter are independent too .
Once you learn how and why each system works , then you can install or repair any problem easier .
Thanks so much for your patience everyone. I am using the 12v coil and new resistor. I plan on starting right after work.First question, Do I need any fuses or a junction box since I am not using the original resistor? I still have the single post below the original resistor.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
" Do I need any fuses or a junction box since I am not using the original resistor? "
Do you remember the line in the movie "Cool Hand Luke" when the warden tells Luke "What we have here is failure to communicate". ?
I asked you " Does the resistor look like the one in the picture? "
You have a front distributor. You MUST use an OEM ballast resistor. That allows more current to the coil for start-up, then it reduces current flow to keep from melting the coil while the tractor is running.
If the replacement resistor is a ballast resistor & looks like the one in the picture, that's all you need. Post back if it isn't the same.
A ballast resistor is not a fuse. N's do not have fuses in the ignition circuit. Don't add one. The only fuse it should have is on top of the light switch.
50 Tips
Do you remember the line in the movie "Cool Hand Luke" when the warden tells Luke "What we have here is failure to communicate". ?
I asked you " Does the resistor look like the one in the picture? "
You have a front distributor. You MUST use an OEM ballast resistor. That allows more current to the coil for start-up, then it reduces current flow to keep from melting the coil while the tractor is running.
If the replacement resistor is a ballast resistor & looks like the one in the picture, that's all you need. Post back if it isn't the same.
A ballast resistor is not a fuse. N's do not have fuses in the ignition circuit. Don't add one. The only fuse it should have is on top of the light switch.
50 Tips
So I finally completed the 12v conversion. Kit came with one of the white resistors. I opted to follow JMOR's advice and use the factory Ballast Resistor. Tractor of course spins much faster but is slower to start now (Longer elapsed time) than when it was 6v. Also seems down on power, and weak throttle reponse. I have verified that I have my firing order right 1243, about a dozen times. I also have steady fuel to the carb. Suggestions?
Shaddiesel
Member
Hello I am hoping someone can help me or possibly JMOR I bought a ford 9n maybe it's a 2n or 8n I was told it was a 9n but not 100% sure I followed JMOR wiring diagram and when I hooked up the 12v battery and turned on the key and the wires smoked and burned up. I am new to the tractor fixing word and I could use some help thank you
I followed this diagram below
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z232/JMOR_photo/Charging/9N_2N_12v_alternator_voltmeter.jpg[/img]
Welcome to the forum. I would recommend starting your own
post as opposed to replying to one that is so old.
In any event, JMOR's diagrams are the best I've seen.
They do need to be matched to the tractor you are working on.
Does your tractor have both a clutch and a brake pedal on the
left or are both brake pedals on the right hand side?
More toward the electrical part, does it have a solenoid mounted
on the starter and a wire on the push button start switch?
The diagram you linked is for a 9N/2N. 8N's are slightly different.
Can you post a picture of the tractor? We can help ID it.
You could also check out John Smith's website for ID and history.
Here's a Link to his site.
post as opposed to replying to one that is so old.
In any event, JMOR's diagrams are the best I've seen.
They do need to be matched to the tractor you are working on.
Does your tractor have both a clutch and a brake pedal on the
left or are both brake pedals on the right hand side?
More toward the electrical part, does it have a solenoid mounted
on the starter and a wire on the push button start switch?
The diagram you linked is for a 9N/2N. 8N's are slightly different.
Can you post a picture of the tractor? We can help ID it.
You could also check out John Smith's website for ID and history.
Here's a Link to his site.
Shaddiesel
Member
Hi I took you advice and created a new post called ford N wiring I added some info on that post. I have a clutch and break pedal on the left and a brake pedal on the right as well. There is no solenoid on the starter. I will post some pictures of the tractor when I get home
Thank u for the help
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy