Painting is my next subject. I see most recommend Tisco 240 Medium Gray and Vermillion Ford Red. When painting ( I'm not an expert) should I plan for two coats of each to do a better overall coverage of the paint or when using the Tisco paint, does it cover well enough with just one coat. I'm not planning to use a hardener in the paint cause I'd rather plan on living a little longer. That crap is toxic as heck.

Thanks

Alden
 
One coat of any brand paint will not be enough. I use three minimum.
If you're not going to use the hardener, save your money and don't paint it.
Either that or plan on painting it every year or two.
I bought a quality respirator and use the hardener.
 
I agree with Royse.
Use a hardener.
Without it the paint won't shine nearly as well - nor as long and will dry more slowly.
I generally shoot a fog coat, then a cover coat then I add a bit more reducer and shoot a flash coat. It takes a bit of practice to shoot the flash coat as that's when you're going to get your runs. So practice on the chassis where a run won't matter as much as on the sheet metal.
 
I don't know if breathing hardener is any more unhealthy than just breathing thinner and paint ?

I am not a watch builder but I ran tell you what time it is ( sometimes , LOL ) but I have noticed than paint is less likely to get a run when you use hardener . I paint wrought iron for a living and sometimes get in a hurry . For some reason the paint mixed with hardener seems to cover better , lays down smoother , and thicker .

You would probably notice on the sheet metal , but on the cast iron , if you get a run stop for a second and take a rag and wipe it off while it is wet then shoot a light coat over the bare spot .

Painting is the easy part , the prep work is what makes it a high or low quality paint job . The only draw back I have found on hardener is you can't save the used mixed paint , ie you are through and your paint gun is still half full , or you mixed the last of the paint and the next day you see a thin spot but your out of paint .

You also need to read the directions . Some mixtures have a window of time and applying a second coat at the wrong time may have a bad chemical reaction or adhesion .
 
Thunderman,

Like the others have said and a proper respirator with VOC cartridges and nothing to worry about.

Here's where the "toxic" factor comes in for me.
I've been using Valspar urethane for tractor painting and had some red left over so I sprayed all my chain hooks. A few days later I wanted to spot weld a chain link near one of the bright red hooks . . .
well talk about toxic to the max! !

It reminded me of cutting up an old boiler that had baked enamel on it. I only cooked a bit of the red urethane with hardener but it took a while with a fan on to blow the toxicity out of the shop.

So any time i have any cutting or welding to do I'll surely be taking all the urethane paint off anywhere near that area first.

It is so toxic that I think it really is a downside to using polyurethane; future repair I mean.

T
 
If you get a run while painting use a piece of masking tape (sticky side out) and dab the run, then shoot air at it (no paint) then fog it in.
 
Thanks for the reply. I've been off for a bit, hurt my back so had a couple of acupuncher treatments and boy did they do the job.
Everyone agrees with you about the hardner. Certainly glad I asked.
Thanks again!
 
I purchased my Ford red and Ford grey at Tractor Supply,the colors match perfectly ,got the paint on sale fo 25 bucks a gallon !! I gave the tractor one coat of grey primer,2 coats of red for the bellie,and 2 coats of grey,came out beautiful, buddyboy
 
(quoted from post at 20:54:17 08/19/16) I purchased my Ford red and Ford grey at Tractor Supply,the colors match perfectly ,got the paint on sale fo 25 bucks a gallon !! I gave the tractor one coat of grey primer,2 coats of red for the bellie,and 2 coats of grey,came out beautiful, buddyboy
Tractor Supply in my are only sells one shade of "Ford Gray".
It is the light gray used on the newer tractors.
Not the medium gray used from, what was it, 1948 to 1964?
They carry Ferguson Gray which is close for '39 to '47~ish. (9N/2N)

I haven't had too many issues with the paint.
I'm talking about the Majic brand, using their hardener and thinner.
They used to carry Valspar here but not any more.
 
(quoted from post at 00:19:58 08/14/16) One coat of any brand paint will not be enough. I use three minimum.
If you're not going to use the hardener, save your money and don't paint it.
Either that or plan on painting it every year or two.
I bought a quality respirator and use the hardener.
My 8N was painted 10 years ago, the 2N about 5 years ago. No hardener was used for these tractors or any of my implements. The carryall is an old garden tractor trailer body I didn't bother to paint over. The tractors still look good. They shine as much as a working tractor needs to, when I take the time to clean the dust off 'em.
P2200002wsm.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 22:29:45 08/19/16)
(quoted from post at 00:19:58 08/14/16) One coat of any brand paint will not be enough. I use three minimum.
If you're not going to use the hardener, save your money and don't paint it.
Either that or plan on painting it every year or two.
I bought a quality respirator and use the hardener.
My 8N was painted 10 years ago, the 2N about 5 years ago. No hardener was used for these tractors or any of my implements. The carryall is an old garden tractor trailer body I didn't bother to paint over. The tractors still look good. They shine as much as a working tractor needs to, when I take the time to clean the dust off 'em.
P2200002wsm.jpg
When I'm painting a working tractor I'm not worried as much
about shine as I am protection. Still, the paint fades faster
without the hardener. Look at the difference in red on your 2N
between the dash/air cleaner and the radius rod/transmission.
I've seen Farmall red fade completely to pink in two years, so
far worse than any fading you have there!
Did you paint both tractors with the same brand of paint?
I don't see as much fading on the 8N. Do you keep them inside?
That helps a lot too. They are nice looking tractors.
 
Royce. Do you use harder in every coat of color? Also, do you apply a Clear coat or 2 on top of that. If so, how is that holding up? Tnx,
 
I use hardener in every coat, paying attention to timing.
I don't use a clear coat on the tractors.
No real need with the enamel with hardener.
Years ago when I painted cars with lacquer I used clear coat.
Also use it with the newer base coat/clear coat paints.
But not with the enamels. They are pretty much one step easy.
 
The "grey" is Rustoleum Almond and Smoke Grey mixed 50:50. The red is Rustoleum Sunrise Red because I don't like how some of the other "Ford Red" colors fade to orange. The front axle and radius rods on the 2N are actually spare 8N parts that were not on it until I recently stole the 2N front axle for a different project. No idea what kind of paint is on those radius rods. The blade in this photo sits outside in the weather with my other implements. The tractors are normally parked under a shed roof so they do have some protection from direct sun and weather. Based on that, yea, I can see some fading on my implements after a few years. I'm still perfectly happy with the life and rust-protection I'm getting. The hot tip these days for an extra shiny finish that will stay that way is to shoot a good clearcoat on top. Clearcoat also provides extra UV protection. The dash and hood on the 2N were my first experiment with a clearcoat finish.
 
I've painted a few with Rustoleum paint too. Works well.
I don't think I've ever seen it recommend a hardener like
the regular tractor enamel paints do though. Different animal.
I paint all my outer rims with Rustoleum hammered silver.
Can't even use the same thinner in it. Xylol only for that stuff.
I like how it turns out though and it holds up well.

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