Rebuild won't start.....stuck valve/s?

I just got done putting new rings, sleeves, pistons, etc in a relatively new to me 1954 NAA.

Now on first attempt to start, I'm getting smoke and burping oil out through air cleaner, and it won't fire up. Checked compression and numbers are: #1 = 130, #2 = 115, #3 = 115, and #4 = 130.

Can anyone lend me a hand? Thanks!

Jeff

verify ignition timing & firing order of 1243 CW.
If all well there, verify crankshaft to camshaft timing.

You might double check your plug wire positions for one
and also your timing.....My $.002

Thanks for the help!

I've been re-looking at the timing, and when the piston is near the top of #1 cylinder, 8 degrees or so shows in the timing window. The thing that seems strange to me is that at this point--with 8
degrees showing and piston near top of #1--sometimes the rotor is pointed at 2 o'clock on the distributor and sometimes the rotor is pointed at 8 o'clock. Is this normal?

Jeff

At TDC on the compression stroke it will point to #1wire at TDC on the exhaust stroke it will be 180 degrees out, are you
making sure of the stroke time ??

I do not know about NAA but the 8n has two sets of timing marks on the flywheel, 180 degrees apart.

That's because the dist turns half the speed of the crankshaft so if the rotor sits at two o'clock with number one piston up, if you turn the crankshaft one full turn the rotor will then point to eight o'clock. So, first it would fire on cyl number one and after one full turn of the crankshaft, it will fire on number four.with your description of what is happening, you might he the ditributor exactly a half a turn off. Have someone turn the engine over by hand and put your fingers over the spark plug hole of 2 & 4 cyl. Figure out which hole is making compression. Turn the crank until the timing marks are where you want them and the see if the rotor is pointing to the correct position for that cyl.

Instead of putting your fingers over cyl 2 & 4, it should have been 1 & 4

(quoted from post at 13:29:55 08/18/16) Thanks for the help!

I've been re-looking at the timing, and when the piston is near the top of #1 cylinder, 8 degrees or so shows in the timing window. The thing that seems strange to me is that at this point--with 8
degrees showing and piston near top of #1--sometimes the rotor is pointed at 2 o'clock on the distributor and sometimes the rotor is pointed at 8 o'clock. Is this normal?

Jeff

Click to expand...

Jeff,

When #1 is at TDC it must be on the compression stroke
(intake, compression, power, exhaust). If #1 is at the top of the cylinder (not just near the top) but your rotor is not pointing to #1 pole on the dist cap, then #1 is ready for its exhaust stroke, not it's power stroke.

I'd forget about your timing degrees for the moment and just "static time" the engine.

Here's how I've done it.
If your valve cover is off you can tell when #1 piston is coming up on its compression stroke, when you see the intake valve closing: i.e., the rocker arm is releasing the INTAKE valve spring, letting it come up.

At that point I stand a tall slim screwdriver up in the plug hole, using a string or something to keep the screwdriver vertical so that it doesn't bind at the plug hole. this way you can see exactly when the piston reaches Top Dead Center and exactly when the piston begins to descend. But if your valve cover is on, use your finger or a compression guage to plug up #1 spark plug hole. When the piston is coming up on the compression stroke, you will hear or feel air trying to escape past your finger or see action on the compression guage -- then the screwdriver method.

Next, after confirming that your rotor is pointing at #1 on the dist cap, and your point gap is properly set, loosen the dist clamp bolt, and turn the dist a little CLOCKWISE to position the point block on the dist cam flat spot, just to the right of the nearest high point where it will be ready to climb to that high point as the rotor approaches.

With the cap off of course, turn the key on and rotate the distributor slightly COUNTERCLOCKWISE
(because the rotor runs CLOCKWISE) just until you see the points begin to open and spark. Tighten the dist clamp bolt and quickly turn the key off.

Now you know that #1 piston is getting a spark for it's downward power stroke and if all else is right (wires 1243 Clockwise on the cap) then it will start.

You can fine time it later.

Correction:

At the beginning:

. . . then #1 is AT THE END OF its exhaust stroke (TDC) ready for its INTAKE stroke not ready for it's power stroke.

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to help! Tall T, I followed your procedure and figured out that I was 180 degrees off at the distributor. Once I got that fixed....it fired right up.

I have a follow up question: As far as fine timing is concerned, how long should I let the engine break in before working on that, and should I perfect the timing first or fine tune the carb first?

Thanks again! Jeff

(quoted from post at 18:15:34 08/18/16) Thanks to everyone for taking the time to help! Tall T, I followed your procedure and figured out that I was 180 degrees off at the distributor. Once I got that fixed....it fired right up.

I have a follow up question: As far as fine timing is concerned, how long should I let the engine break in before working on that, and should I perfect the timing first or fine tune the carb first?

Thanks again! Jeff

Click to expand...

Jeff,

That must have put a smile in your heart after all that work, having it start right up.
Good to hear!

Re. breaking it in,
if I had close to factory clearance on the rods and mains after a rebuild I'd go with (SAE 20) in this warm weather for quick seating of the rings to the walls and efficient mating of other surfaces. Lighter break in oil ensures a desirable degree of wearing of the piston rings and liners. If the surfaces don't correspond with each other, the mismatch can result in an inconsistent oil film on the cylinder wall, allowing excess oil to be consumed during combustion.

After break in of 75 to 100 hours under work load conditions I'd go with 10W30, 10W40 or 15W40.
How's that for vague.
My NAA hovers around 40 psi and I'm running 15W40.

If it is running smoothly now I'd focus on tweaking the carb, checking your timing and running the engine in.

When I broke in my 1953 235 Chev 6 that I still have, I used 10W Quaker State Non-detergent. "non-Detergent" because the engine has a by-pass oil filtration system. After break in I switched to detergent 10W40 and then to 15W40. All oils are detergent unless otherwise specified on the container.

I haven't figured out yet whether this Red Tiger has a By-Pass filtration system or a Shunt filtration system because I don't think that this adapted spin on is actually "Full Flow" like modern spin-ons. (?)

Terry