r48r50a77

New User
Can the holes in the bottom of the fluid resevoirs that have the cotter pins in them just be plugged up? What is the purpose of the holes. I can see the reason for the pins but not the hole to begin with
 
(quoted from post at 11:48:40 08/18/16) Can the holes in the bottom of the fluid resevoirs that have the cotter pins in them just be plugged up? What is the purpose of the holes. I can see the reason for the pins but not the hole to begin with

You can plug them and in time you will discover their purpose ;-)

TOH
 
r48r50a77,The hole are there to keep any leaking fluids inside from filling the captivitys.The cotter pins are there to keep the holes open and free of dirt and mud to keep the holes open,when they are hit by tall weeds and stubble.
 
In case you're having trouble decoding the comments, lol, DO NOT plug the holes and do not remove the floppy cotter pins.
 
I bought a 9N once that had the gas tank vent plug up with a sheet metal screw and a large vent hole drilled into the trans fill plug!
 
Addendum, make sure they are free and clear of crap/debris. The tractor may 'mark it's spot', but way better than getting oil splashed onto the clutch. HTH
 
Gosh. I am impressed with all the response. I am a new 9N owner (duh, who would guess). Thanks so much. Another ?: How can I flush all the reservoirs of sludge?
 
" What is the purpose of the holes"

See tip # 51 at the link.

" I am a new 9N owner:

See tip # 39; even a toaster comes w/ a manual! You need them for a 70+ year old tractor.

" How can I flush all the reservoirs of sludge?"

For info on changing the hydraulic fluid, check out tips 3 & 4 at the link below.

There are two ways to clean the pump; the ?quick clean? that gets a lot of the sludge out of it, & the right way that gets all of it, including the hard packed crud in the pump base.

For the quick clean, after you get the old fluid drained out (overnight is best) remove both inspection plates & start pulling the sludge in the pump base out by hand. Then, get a couple of gallons of kerosene or diesel fuel & pour it into the pump base. Catch it in a bucket & reuse it. (Some folks use a hand garden sprayer.) Flush the pump base out 5 or 6 times. Do not start the engine to run the kerosene through the pump; kerosene and diesel fuel do not have sufficient lubrication properties for a 60 year old hydraulic pump designed to be immersed in 90w gear oil. Some folks say it?s ok to start the engine, engage the pump for a minute or two, then turn the engine off. Your call on that one.

This 'quick-clean' is not as effective as dropping the pump & doing a full job. But if the choice is between doing nothing & the quick clean, spray it out. It worked for me for 3 years on my 1951 N. If you have the time, drop the pump; that is the right way to do it. I?ve done it both ways & don?t plan on doing the quick clean again. That?s because dropping the pump is not a big deal. If you have hard packed crud in the pump base, you are wasting your time w/ the "quick clean".
75 Tips
 

I am quite sure there is another purpose for the cotter: to keep dirt daubers from crawling through the drain hole and building mud nests inside the housing. I never see this mentioned, but most people have seen the work of dirt daubers (some call them mud daubers). They can be harmful, and they will build their mud nest anywhere!!!

Dennis in W. Tenn.
 
Another ?. Is there a source for individual small parts for a governor? Also a manual for detailed repair? Many thanks.
 

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