Tips on finding an Engine

ratface

Member
Ok everyone so it seems I need to replace my engine because of a rod knock causing low oil pressure and a hot poorly running engine. I don't feel comfortable doing a rebuild so am looking to swap out with another. I did this several years ago by trading a fellow a trailer for his complete tractor and just used it as a donor. Looking for the same type of situation unless anyone here might have a good runner they are willing to sell. I'm in the corner of NW Illinois so could travel several hundred miles in any direction, Eastern Iowa, Southern Wisconsin, or Southern Illinois. I would prefer just a long block running engine but would consider complete tractors as donor machines. I'm looking in all the obvious places like Craig"s List, Ebay, and the ads on this site but I know there are countless folks that part these out scattered about. Anyone got a line on an engine my email is open.
 
HFJ, I read the main tutorials on this site about rebuilding and have several reasons. I don't reside where the tractor is located. It would be a couple Saturdays a month until it got done. The articles detail folks that have had to go back in several times to get things right. It's also not a clean working area with barn swallows pooping everywhere. The general expense would be in the $1500 on a tractor that still needs many other things fixed, I need a Kingpin, Brakes, and need to fix a leaking PTO seal as well as lately the machine has started jumping out of gear. Addtionally it is the only tractor I own and the weeds just keep growing. I'm going to lose a lot of walking paths I've spent years clearing out if I don't get a brush hog running soon.
 
Expense is another question, what is a running engine in "Good Condition" worth? I see one on Ebay for $600 today within driving distance but the history of it is unknown. I am seeing sad looking N's for under $1000 in some places but again what would it cost to transport one as opposed to an easily transportable engine. So it's a conundrum for sure. I'm thinking a good engine with good oil pressure and no smoke is a rare find? So for peace of mind I guess I would be willing to pay up to $1000 for a sure thing engine and would pay up to $1500 for a donor with a good engine. At that point I might just be better off with the donor becoming my everyday tractor. So the question is what is a good engine worth?????????????????????
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:21 08/11/16) Expense is another question, what is a running engine in "Good Condition" worth? I see one on Ebay for $600 today within driving distance but the history of it is unknown. I am seeing sad looking N's for under $1000 in some places but again what would it cost to transport one as opposed to an easily transportable engine. So it's a conundrum for sure. I'm thinking a good engine with good oil pressure and no smoke is a rare find? So for peace of mind I guess I would be willing to pay up to $1000 for a sure thing engine and would pay up to $1500 for a donor with a good engine. At that point I might just be better off with the donor becoming my everyday tractor. So the question is what is a good engine worth?????????????????????

It is worth what ever you are willing to pay for it. And even then it will be a gamble. How about pulling you engine and either take it to a rebuilder or do it yourself at you home? I did one about 6 years ago, had the block hot tank and inspected, valve seats replace and ground and did the rest myself and it is still running like a champ.
 
For $1500? I have a 2N for sale for that price. I could take a hundred off for you IF you'd be willing to travel as far as Jackson MI.

Strongest running N I have ever seen with steady oil pressure 30 hot idle and about 40-45 working. Does not smoke at all. No problems whatsoever with the engine. Email me if you're interested.
 
I have an 8n engine in my 2n that I'm looking to sell soon. I swapped it so I could rebuild the original 2n engine. The engine run great, no smoke and really good oil pressure. It had been completely rebuilt a few years back and all I ever did with it was plow gardens and a few acres for a friend. It is still currently in the tractor and ready to run any time! I live in eastern iowa, close to Davenport. Email is open.
 
I think you are smart to do it that way.
Ns are good, useful tractors but I just can't see spending a couple grand on a rebuild for one.
Not when you can buy a complete good running tractor for that.
 
To expand on jacksun65's suggestion, what do you guys think someone will pay for a tractor with a rod knock. Considering it has a new set of rears on hat rims, new carb, newer distributor and a rare, "Saf-T-Cab" ROPS system with seatbelt that bolts under the rear axle. I'm not sure they are even made anymore but think they retail over $1000. I really don't need it anymore. Would it make more sense to part this out??? Problem is that is easier said than done, requires a lot of time and more than likely I'll have another non running N to store.
 
(quoted from post at 00:38:27 08/12/16) HFJ, I read the main tutorials on this site about rebuilding and have several reasons. I don't reside where the tractor is located. It would be a couple Saturdays a month until it got done. The articles detail folks that have had to go back in several times to get things right. It's also not a clean working area with barn swallows pooping everywhere. The general expense would be in the $1500 on a tractor that still needs many other things fixed, I need a Kingpin, Brakes, and need to fix a leaking PTO seal as well as lately the machine has started jumping out of gear. Addtionally it is the only tractor I own and the weeds just keep growing. I'm going to lose a lot of walking paths I've spent years clearing out if I don't get a brush hog running soon.

Sounds like its lived its useful life... You have a parts tractor with two good tires I don't think the ROPS will fetch much... Its salvage 3/500 tops... Lick your wounds and speed your money on something newer than a N.
 
"Would it make more sense to part this out?"

It would make more money to part it out but then you are
stuck with the parts that don't sell or don't sell quickly.
You have already mentioned the time and labor to part it.
That needs to be considered too.

You may be able to sell the new tires on hats for as much
as the whole tractor in its current shape if no one else wants
to deal with the engine but wants the tires.

Other parts are tough to ship. ROPS might sell in hilly areas
but in the flat lands they're not usually highly sought after.
Possibly something a collector would want though.

Give yourself some time to think. Rent a tractor for a weekend
and mow what you need to mow, then make a decision on it
when you're not under that added pressure.
 
(quoted from post at 13:09:49 08/11/16) Ok everyone so it seems I need to replace my engine because of a rod knock causing low oil pressure and a hot poorly running engine. I don't feel comfortable doing a rebuild so am looking to swap out with another. I did this several years ago by trading a fellow a trailer for his complete tractor and just used it as a donor. Looking for the same type of situation unless anyone here might have a good runner they are willing to sell. I'm in the corner of NW Illinois so could travel several hundred miles in any direction, Eastern Iowa, Southern Wisconsin, or Southern Illinois. I would prefer just a long block running engine but would consider complete tractors as donor machines. I'm looking in all the obvious places like Craig"s List, Ebay, and the ads on this site but I know there are countless folks that part these out scattered about. Anyone got a line on an engine my email is open.

Everybody should have at least three tractors, so one can be getting maintenance or repairs without falling behind on the chores. Good engines with just a rod knock and low oil pressure can be fixed by dropping the pan and replacing one bad rod bearing. Pull the rod and main caps on either side of the bad bearing and look for metal or damage from metal passing thru to be sure it isn't a terminal condition. Occasionally the patient was in much worse shape than I was told and needed a complete rebuild. In most cases the damage to the crank and adjacent bearings was so minimal, I only had to replace one bearing. Carefully measure both the rod ID and the crank journal OD. The correct oversize bearing shell will fit the crank, but if the rod is hogged out it won't hold and the new bearing will soon be rattling again. Use plastigauge while it's apart to see exactly what the main and rod bearing clearances are. If it's within spec put it back together and run it for years.
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:39 08/11/16)
(quoted from post at 13:09:49 08/11/16) Ok everyone so it seems I need to replace my engine because of a rod knock causing low oil pressure and a hot poorly running engine. I don't feel comfortable doing a rebuild so am looking to swap out with another. I did this several years ago by trading a fellow a trailer for his complete tractor and just used it as a donor. Looking for the same type of situation unless anyone here might have a good runner they are willing to sell. I'm in the corner of NW Illinois so could travel several hundred miles in any direction, Eastern Iowa, Southern Wisconsin, or Southern Illinois. I would prefer just a long block running engine but would consider complete tractors as donor machines. I'm looking in all the obvious places like Craig"s List, Ebay, and the ads on this site but I know there are countless folks that part these out scattered about. Anyone got a line on an engine my email is open.

Everybody should have at least three tractors, so one can be getting maintenance or repairs without falling behind on the chores. Good engines with just a rod knock and low oil pressure can be fixed by dropping the pan and replacing one bad rod bearing. Pull the rod and main caps on either side of the bad bearing and look for metal or damage from metal passing thru to be sure it isn't a terminal condition. Occasionally the patient was in much worse shape than I was told and needed a complete rebuild. In most cases the damage to the crank and adjacent bearings was so minimal, I only had to replace one bearing. Carefully measure both the rod ID and the crank journal OD. The correct oversize bearing shell will fit the crank, but if the rod is hogged out it won't hold and the new bearing will soon be rattling again. Use plastigauge while it's apart to see exactly what the main and rod bearing clearances are. If it's within spec put it back together and run it for years.
Changing implements is hard work. You need one for each implement.
Then, buy more implements. ;)
 
I have told this here many times...
I had a 2N with good strong engine and nearly new Firestone rears that I had bought new. But I wanted the features of an 8N.
So I bought an 8N with a smokey engine and swapped engines. I also swapped the Firestones over as well as a few other things - lift arms, fenders, lights, inner wheel weights, etc. Then I sold the now smokey 2N.
So you could also keep your tires/rims and rops - keep the best of both.
As it turned out it was only another year or so till I upgraded again, to a 3 cylinder Ford 2000. But again I kept those Firestones and fenders and the wheel Weights too. Eventually I upgraded again - horsetraded around several times - and now have a 3000/3600. The Firestones had to go as they were too small now but I'm still running those original 2N fenders and still running those wheel weights.
 

"Changing implements is hard work."

u sound like someone who's tried to hook my ancient howse up to the WD. i've done it by myself - once. i'm not likely to make that mistake again.
 

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