How to install fan shroud 9N

First off, my 9N has a radiator that I think must be intended for an 8N. It has a smaller top reservoir than my original, and it uses a pressure cap.. My situation is, I bought a new (repro?) fan shroud that the "tractor shop man" said was all he had or words to that effect. Can I install the shroud without removing the dog legs? fan? other parts in the way? If I find out how to get in there, I could easily cut the shroud in half and possibly install the halves with some home made sheet-metal tabs. Has any one been there, done that? BTW, at present the tractor is not dis-assembled, and I don't want to destroy my decent paint job. My reason for wanting to install shroud is to lower operating temperature when using finish mower on several acres in 99 degree summer day. Last year, my temp gauge was showing about 230 degrees, and about then my old front mount coil failed. I don't want to push things too hard and cook another coil this year!

Dennis in W. Tenn.

The original 9n radiator was nonpressurized. My Ford parts book does not show the nonpressurized system. The fan shroud part
number is 2n-8146.I'm guessing the shroud was not used till the 2n was changed to a pressurized radiator. The only aftermarket
replacement radiator available is the pressurized one for the 2n and 8n. The 9n fan originally pushed the air forward away from
the operator. That might be why the book does not list a shroud for the 9n. I think you will have to remove the hood to put a
shroud on your 9n. You will also have to get six sheet metal screws to fasten the shroud to the radiator sides. Book shows #8x3/8.

The MPC shows p/n 8146 as fitting the 9N, 2N & 8N radiators.

And that's about the only good news I've got.

You're not going to get that shroud on the radiator w/o removing the radiator.

And, unless you are mowing in first gear, the shroud won't help you. It was designed to direct the air through the radiator when the tractor is stationary or moving very slowly.

So, at an operating temp of 230* when it should be not much above 200* (if that) you've got other problems.

Check for low coolant, a loose fan belt, debris in the radiator fins or a stuck thermostat. A bad water pump will usually squeak or leak. (If you ever have a water pump start leaking or making noise, replace it immediately. A N water pump will come apart & launch the fan into the radiator.) And, unless you have a new/rebuilt water pump from a reputable source, it could have impeller erosion. The pump will turn, it won?t leak, but it isn?t circulating water.

In order to have a stuck thermostat, you need to have one installed. Squeeze the top hose; if it has a t-stat, you can feel it. Sometimes (rarely) the t-stat can migrate in the hose & get stuck closed. Or, in an attempt to keep that from happening, some owners will put a third clamp on the hose & tighten it too much resulting in a stuck t-stat. The OEM top hose came w/ a non-adjustable ban to keep the t-stat in place.

The fan belt should have 1/2" of flex at the mid-point; no more, no less.

Unless you have a pusher fan, blowing out the radiator from the engine side is always a good idea.

But, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet & flush out the block & radiator. To do that, remove the t-stat from the top hose. Then, remove the bottom hose from the radiator, stuff a rag in the bottom radiator hose connection, & stick your garden hose in the top of the radiator. Turn the water on (reverse flush) & the water will flow into the radiator, then the block & out of the disconnected lower hose. Let it run until the water is clear. Then, check the radiator flow. Stick the hose in the top of the radiator; the water should flow out of the bottom w/o backing up in the filler neck. It should flow at 19.5 gallons a minute. As a final flush, put a gallon of white vinegar (or radiator flush) & about 2 gallons of water in the radiator, run it to operating temp & then drain it again. Don?t forget to put the t-stat back in correctly!
75 Tips

"You're not going to get that shroud on the radiator w/o removing the radiator."

i had mine (2N) off and on a couple of times without pulling the radiator, but the hood and doglegs were off. i can't see sneaking the thing in and fastening it with the doglegs there.

It's easier to flush the radiator and block like Bruce says than fit an aftermarket shroud on an aftermarket radiator. They don't fit without
a lot of bending and grinding and bad words. None of my 9Ns have shroud.

I also live in West Tennessee and my 9n never hasn't gotten past 180-185 after working moving dirt around with a blade. I use a
lazer thermometer with a 140* thermostat. A good cleaning and flushing should help.