timing light for 6V ignition

I'm having trouble getting my '51 8N to start. I had to replace the distributer and timing gear cover. Now when I try to start it, it just backfires through the air cleaner. I've tried to static time it with no success. I believe it is a timing problem, but my timing light only works on 12V. I have been unable to locate a 6V timing light. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Wayne

(quoted from post at 12:02:45 08/04/16) I'm having trouble getting my '51 8N to start. I had to replace the distributer and timing gear cover. Now when I try to start it, it just backfires through the air cleaner. I've tried to static time it with no success. I believe it is a timing problem, but my timing light only works on 12V. I have been unable to locate a 6V timing light. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Wayne

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ower light from your truck or car battery

.
Get one like THIS

Move your rotor back one tooth and try it

(quoted from post at 09:20:59 08/04/16)

(quoted from post at 12:02:45 08/04/16) I'm having trouble getting my '51 8N to start. I had to replace the distributer and timing gear cover. Now when I try to start it, it just backfires through the air cleaner. I've tried to static time it with no success. I believe it is a timing problem, but my timing light only works on 12V. I have been unable to locate a 6V timing light. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Wayne

Click to expand...

ower light from your truck or car battery

Click to expand...

I tried that, my timing light won't fire that way. I know I'm getting spark (I got bit) and my spark tester fires regularly. I'm fairly certain the problem is timing

I'll give that a try when it quits raining. The tractor is outside and I don't have help to move it in. Can't quite do it by myself, have slight uphill grade.

Just power your timing-light with a 12 volt battery, I do that all the time.

I use my 12 battery charger.

Try it with the negative post of the 12V battery jumpered to the frame of the tractor. That completes the
circuit for the 12V side. Don't let the positive terminal contact anything but the positive lead to the timing
light!

Sounds like the wrong firing order if backfiring thru the carb, check plug wire order.

First, check the firing order. 1-2-4-3, CCW.

Next, you really do need to static time it. The light is only good for adjusting the timing 20-30* or so, assuming you can even see the marks if it's that far out. Or, you could see the wrong marks & be 180* out.

So start over.

Remove the distributor.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Hold the distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o?clock position & the stud at 9 o?clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the right front head bolt. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
75 Tips

(quoted from post at 02:43:02 08/05/16) Try it with the negative post of the 12V battery jumpered to the frame of the tractor. That completes the
circuit for the 12V side. Don't let the positive terminal contact anything but the positive lead to the timing
light!

Click to expand...

Jack has it right. I'm to cheap to buy a 6 volt timing light, so I use a 12 volt light and a lawnmower battery. You have to ground between the battery negative post and the tractor chassis for it to work, however.

The timing light is only going to help you once you get it to run. Start over on installing the distributor. number 1 at top dead center, timing mark thru timing hole a 4 degrees, point rotor to number one and like others have said make sure you have the firing order right and in the proper direction.
good luck.

My old 12 volt timing light worked just fine on my 8n.

I picked up an old timing light at a garage sale for 1 dollar that runs off of 110 volts. have had a need to try it yeet and may never need to but for a dollar I could not pass it up.