Auxiliary under/over drives.

Sandon8N

Member
I am new. Ford 8n we just purchased today.
I have read on forums from years ago about the aux. units for under driving (and in some cases over driving.) I am interested in under more than a combo or over. We live in rocky terrain and will be using a blade, which I have, and a rake more than anything else. It has a good bucket, but will see minmal use for tramming material around. Well, maybe rocks.

I found one unit so far for under drive on eBay. Any ideas would help. I will cal salvage places all over next week. I will write more details later. I do have some very important tinkering on it to get it to stay running. Intake/exhaust gaskets, some rubber lines, etc., etc., you all know the drill.

Above average mechanical skills and tools.
 
For your 8n you will want one with the lever in the right in the photo. You will also want the combo with the 10 spline input shaft.

Kirk
Sherman%20Levers%20-%20Step%20Up%20-%20Step%20Down%20Combo_zps8h6iicj4.jpg
 

For the price and effort you will be better off to up-grade to a more suited tractor for your application unless you get lucky and find a deal on one are just like to tinker.
 
Thanks for the ideas so far.
I do understand the idea of just purchasing what we need.
We purchased this tractor because of cost more than anything. We just moved in a couple months ago and are having to spend quite a bit to have a barn put up and fencing and such. Were were set to buy a new Deere 4 Series when we decided on what is really going to get us by for a few years. We decided to spend that on the barn first. We just need to drag a blade then finish with a rake.

We spent 2K for the package. Once I have it running right and am able to gear it down a little (sometimes I just like to creep) it will suit our needs.

The rocks here are golf ball to soft ball size. Over time when the pasture areas are worked over I really do not see needing it more than a few times a year. Leveling a little of the road for us and neighbors and snow removal.

I found this site that prompted the idea;
http://www.oldfordtractors.com/sherman.htm

Kirk-NJ, Thanks for the pictures you posted.
 
I did see the Ebay listing. The price I am not too afraid of, but I am a hands on guy with things like this.

Anyone know of a reputable tractor salvage operation? The search pulls up so much misc. junk.

Thanks all for the ideas and fun replies.
 

I would watch craig's list in your area and check local dealers. When you buy on ebay, there is always a gamble. You may find it cheaper to buy a complete tractor with a combo trans. If your tractor runs good and has good rubber looks like you did ok. If you get used to it, you may find that first gear throttled down will work for you. I have one with a Howard speed reducer and hardly every use it. Never when I am grading out gravel road.

You might place a want add with Craig's list and see what happens.
Good luck
 
There are no rubber lines on an N unless you mean radiator hoses. If your fuel line is rubber, get the proper metal fuel line on that rig.
 

When you are done you will have a EZ 4K in it not counting labor. BTDT and it did not have a over/under in it are power steering and all the other nice stuff :(

Whats the price of the ebay unit.
 
(quoted from post at 14:34:29 07/21/16) There are no rubber lines on an N unless you mean radiator hoses. If your fuel line is rubber, get the proper metal fuel line on that rig.
If you don't consider the ones on the loader.
 
Yes! I was specifically meaning the loader. Just leaving tractor place in Spokane with in/exh. gaskets.

The one on eBay is at a buy it now of $750.

I have a few Craigslist Wanted adds up locally and search them for goodies.

It is a good tractor. I'm sure it will do all I need for now. An auxiliary box would be a nice touch, but not mandatory.
 
At first sight of your post I thought, what the heck? I don't remember posting that! LOL

I'm gonna guess he's talking about loader lines.
 

When you remove it you can tell rite close to what condition its in...
I have sold a few @500 as is pick up at my place no shipping and never had a complaint other than a cracked case that was repairable.

A overdrive that looked great like a dumarse rebuilt it, it needed a lot and liked not got my money back out of it I sold it to a member here...

I would have a hard time shelling out that kind of money for one to someone I did not know are have some kind of reference on...
Remember they are old and USED and often as is...

I have one still bolted to the trans, trans is out one day I may remove it for a look see but had rather sell it to a local as is.. Shipping is a lost leader to much leg work and cost involved for me...
 
(quoted from post at 16:52:22 07/21/16)
When you are done you will have a EZ 4K in it not counting labor. BTDT and it did not have a over/under in it are power steering and all the other nice stuff :(

Whats the price of the ebay unit.
Hobo is 100% correct. The little note "Tractor Guru" under his name isn't kidding. I really like my 8N and 2N tractors, but when it comes to doing any work with a blade or cutter, the Ford 3000 has quickly become my first choice. The 3000 cost far less than I have invested in the 8N and it came with hi-lo gears, double clutch, live hydraulics, a decent parking brake, a far more comfortable seat (with back rest), and nearly twice the horsepower. My neighbor has a nearly identical tractor except his is a diesel. Those small diesels do away with nearly all the tuning/wiring troubles people constantly post on these forums. I like my antique gas engines, but the reality is that I may be spending more time working on tractors than the work I get out of them.
 

"Those small diesels do away with nearly all the tuning/wiring troubles people constantly post on these forums."

i don't doubt that, but on the flip side, i've read plenty of horror stories from people who ran their diesel dry and then couldn't get their injectors reprimed.

when i run out of gas, i pour more in, start it back up, and drive away :)
 
(quoted from post at 15:00:18 07/23/16)
"Those small diesels do away with nearly all the tuning/wiring troubles people constantly post on these forums."

i don't doubt that, but on the flip side, i've read plenty of horror stories from people who ran their diesel dry and then couldn't get their injectors reprimed.

when i run out of gas, i pour more in, start it back up, and drive away :)

I like my 3000 with the 8 speed (4 + hi/lo) but some come with just a 4 speed , be careful . The 3000 weighs a good 1000 - 1500 lbs more than the N which would be better for dirt work along with twice the horsepower . I though it would be worse in the mud but both the 8n & 3000 do good there .

I bought the tractor from a friend who had problems running it out of diesel and getting it restarted . I have to say that once you learn where to bleed the filter > pump > injectors , it doesn't take 2 minutes to get it started again .

I have not been in the hydraulics on the 3000 but if you can work on an N you can work on a 3000 .

I have my 8N torn down for a 60 year check up from one end to the other . The front axle pin wore the rear of the cradle out and had 1/2 up and down movement . The pinion has chipped teeth and everything in between is tired . I like the 8n for the easy handling and lower height for mowing around the wood line .
 

i hear ya, ken, and if i were doing any more with mine than i do, i'd definitely take the whole "more tractor" thing to heart.

butall my N does, with rare exceptions, is run my finish mower. they make a lovely couple :)

i used to mow with my WD, and because my yard has some slope to it, there are 2 spots that scared me on it. now, it wouldn't surprise me if one of u folk drove thru there and laughed and said i was nowhere near tipping - but it still scared ME lol.

the N is like a go-kart by comparison, and those spots no longer scare me.

the one thing the N won't do that i miss the most is the ability to stop the tractor without stopping the mower. zane, how about a PTO Thang? ;)
 
I do appreciate all the comments. This is what I have and this is what I have to work with until we get financial recuperation from our recent move and the cost of a new high dollar steel barn soon to be installed.

I purchased the tractor knowing it didnt run well. The tractor loader combo with a stout blade was worth the cost to me (at the time.) I have a new carb on order hoping to cure the runability problem. I have been reading the forums lately in reference to my specific problems and am getting confident my power issues and such will be cured soon. All my hot rodding days, fast trucks, buggys, heavy equipment, and 18 wheeler repair skills seem to be working well for me. BUT, whoever wrote about the M/S carbs being reverse (rich vs lean) on the idle mixture was a god send! This poor carb is pretty corroded inside and the throttle plate (on the top of the carb) seems to be so loose it is causing some vacuum issues, as well as other things.

The loader needs some hydraulic lines replaced and the main seals in the lift rams done. Easy enough.

I have adjusted brakes and need a right drum. It is obviously a little (not to much) out of round. The cost of a new drum and new set of shoes is worth the cost. I will obviously check the left drum visually when doing the r&r on the shoes.

As long as I can get power (compression SEEMS good, I have to buy another compression tester because I think mine is at our rental property tool boxes back home) and clean her up a bit, I will be a happy camper. I just need to be able to pull the blade and a rake (when we purchase one) and anything more than that is a bonus.

Again, thanks all. Sorry for the scratchy posts when I was up late and running around town for parts.
 
Hello Sandon8N.

I'm also in Spokane and have my 8N on acreage north of Sacheen Lake. Say hi sometime. Horsefly
 
Update; new carb on and it runs like a champ! Even at low speeds. I still want to gear it down if I ever find an auxiliary unit.
Everything was great until the radiator started to leak (after about an hour) It is removed and I can not find the leak. It all looks
great. Must be one of the cores. Well, while its down I will replace the belt and clean anything I think I can. I do know I will need
to replace the pan gasket. It's an oldie, but a goodie. The loader works well also.

The hyd. control is a bit hard to get used to after years of operating other newer tractors. But I'm getting the hang of it.

With my ad on Craigslist looking for parts I found an old PTO belt drive. I almost snapped it for $50, but what would I really do
with it? Maybe I'll find a non runner with a Sherman in it. I can wish!
 

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