1952 8N tractor has no sparl

skurfan

New User
I bought this 8N side mount distibutor a month ago. It started hard but started and ran and he drove it up on my trailer so I know it will run. He had a 12V battery and a coil strapped on and it was a 6V system. I have removed both the old coil and the strapped on coil and put one on right. I also have changed the points, condensor, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and have changed it over to a 12V system with a one wire alternator, I used the kit from Yesterdays Tractor. I have a new battery, new ignition swith, new resistor and have no spark. I have 12V out of the switch, 12V to the resistor, 12V coming out (should a resister not resist?) and 12V going to the coil and out of the coil to the distibutor and to the points. If you are still reading this long question...thanks....and I would appreciate any help I can get as to what to do. I have spent many hours on this tractor trying to get it to run.
 

hi skurfan, and welcome to YT.

i don't know where to start here, u mention u put a coil on "right" - but i'm unclear on what exactly was wrong to begin with.

as for your question about resistors - the resistor(s) in an N ignitoin is/are to reduce amperage, not voltage.

do an internet search for "wiring diagrams JMOR" without the quotes, and have a look at the one that applies to u, and compare it to your wiring.
 
HFJ...Thanks for your response. By putting the coil on "right" I meant that I removed the old coil that was not being used and the one that he had mounted with a bungee cord and put a new coil in the bracket where it belonged. I used a 12 volt coil with no resistor in it. I have checked the wiring diagram and believe that I have it correct. I also used the diagram that came with my 12 volt conversion kit and it is to the letter also. One thing that is a bit iffy, the rummer grommet that goes through the distributor was replaced some time ago with something not original. It was grounding out. I fabricated one that does not ground out. I believe somewhere I either have an incapatable part in my system, or one of the new parts I bought is defective. I have been thru 3 resistors, 2 coils, 3 condensors, and basicall have an all new electrical system.
 

ok, u speak of 3 resistors. what exactly do u refer to? are u talking about the OEM resistor/terminal block, which mounts on the back of the dash, or are u referring to a white ceramic resistor?
 
I am referring to the ceramic resistors. For some reason Yesterdays Tractors sent me 3 when I ordered one for my 9N that I recently restored also. I thought they resisted volts so I was trying them all, but what you said makes sense about amps. My terminal block has the top broken, but I am able to use the broken part to attach the wires to it and will get a new terminal block, but I think that is just for junctions and would not matter for getting it running.
 
You stated you had power to the points,do you have an arc across the points when you turn it over? Check to verify that with the dist
cap off,you may have a problem with the hook-up in that area.
 
You stated you had power to the points,do you have an arc across the points when you turn it over? Check to verify that with the dist
cap off,you may have a problem with the hook-up in that area.You may need to run a folded piece of fine sandpaper through the points to get the film off them.
 
(quoted from post at 13:45:24 07/21/16) I am referring to the ceramic resistors. For some reason Yesterdays Tractors sent me 3 when I ordered one for my 9N that I recently restored also. I thought they resisted volts so I was trying them all, but what you said makes sense about amps. My terminal block has the top broken, but I am able to use the broken part to attach the wires to it and will get a new terminal block, but I think that is just for junctions and would not matter for getting it running.

actually, that terminal block is a critical component, as it also contains the OEM ballast resistor. that might be your problem right there. but, in the meantime, the purpose of the ceramic resistors inline is to protect your 6 volt coil from excess current. since u have a 12 volt coil now, u should not need the extra resistor in the circuit.
 
Skurfan... you need to do a bit of your own research on Basic Electricity... you will learn that: in this case, the GOAL is reduced Amperage (to keep the coil cooler)....and... you will also learn that the Voltage WILL DROP "downstream" of the resistor.

A 'resistored' circuit with No Load WILL properly read the same voltage throughout... and NO amperage. A 'resistored' or resistance circuit with a load will show the same amperage throughout AND will show different voltage readings depending on where you check the voltage at.

Not an engineer... just basic electricity... duey
 
Remove ALL the resistors and try to start it. A side distributor should not need any resistors unless it has a 6 volt coil. Use a 12 coil and
no resistors.
 
" actually, that terminal block is a critical component, as it also contains the OEM ballast resistor. "

He's got a sidemount. No resistor on the terminal block.
75 Tips
 
First, charge the battery. All that cranking has drained it.

Next, do exactly as Harold said: remove all the resistors. It does not matter right now if it has a 6v or 12v coil; worry about that later. (*)

Next, check voltage at the points. Do you have battery voltage across the points when they are open? Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler guage blade off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you have some home-made crap there, that is your most likely source of no spark. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all. If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Insure that the rotor fits firmly on the shaft & that the little clip is there. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked & doesn't have carbon tracks. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. In fact, replace it temporarily w/ a plug wire. Next, remove the secondary coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, turn the key on & crank the engine while holding the end of the wire 1/4" from a rust & paint free spot on the engine. You should see & hear a nice blue/white spark. If not, you have a bad coil or condenser. Just put the old condenser back in to eliminate that as a possibility.

Post back w/ results; I'll be interested in what the problem was.

(*) Test the coil; if it's 3 ohms or more, it's 12v. Most 6v coils are 2.25 - 2.5 ohms.
75 Tips
 

"No resistor on the terminal block."

ah, my bad. ty, bruce. i thought those were the same on all models :oops:
 
Great ideas...thanks!
I think I will order these parts and get to work on it again. I will post results. I am a bit confused on the terminal block, but I am going to replace it anyway. Now, if someone could turn down the heat...it is 102!!
 
Arrrghh...Yesterdays tractors does not carry that insulater on the distributor so I did not order anything. I will see if I can find another source
 
Listen carefully, please.

You have a sidemount distributor.

You do NOT need any resistors.

NONE.

All you need is a 12 volt coil. Thats a coil
with 3 ohms or more internal resistance.
75 Tips
 
Parts on the way from nnalert's, just so that I am clear...is that terminal block a resistor, or not? I have already learned a bunch on here in a couple hours. Thanks for your help.
 
On your tractor with a side distributor, the
terminal block is just a connection point
for the ignition circuit wires. It is not a
resistor and does not have a connection for
one. The terminal block for the front
distributor has a connection point for the
required ballast resistor.
75 Tips
 

visual aid: the one with the resistor looks like this:

[i:8603209984]http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/store/parts/pics/wml_A8NN12250A.jpg[/i:8603209984]

hopefully, the one u ordered looks like this instead:

[i:8603209984]http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/store/parts/pics/wm_8NNN14448A.jpg[/i:8603209984]

i apologize again for sharing my confusion with u.
 

:lol: note to self, italics and images are two different tags :p

let's try that again.

visual aid: the one with the resistor looks like this:

wml_A8NN12250A.jpg


hopefully, the one u ordered looks like this instead:

wm_8NNN14448A.jpg


i apologize again for sharing my confusion with u.
 
I got the right one. I thought it was just a connection box too. No need to apologize, I appreciate all the fresh ideas and information. I will get this thing running. It is frustrating though when I order new parts and they turn out to be faulty.
 

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