It finally happened; cracked my oil pan

Was out cutting weeds yesterday and found a new hole where there wasn't one last year. Front left wheel slammed down and sideways. Tried to baby it out continuing foreward but ended up backing out which I'm sure didn't help at all.

Crack extends from the top edge of the pan almost to the inboard curve. Still holding oil fortunately. I'm going to grind and weld but since it's iron I'm wanting to get a replacement in case the welding route doesn't hold.
 
drain the oil.

grind and clean it up.

My 2n has an 8" welded crack on it's oil pan.. had it before I got it.
 
My 51 came with a patch on the oil pan; been like that for the past 15 years I've had it.

These guys should be able to help you w/ used parts:

John Smith smith8NATatt.net

Rod Mondor fltractorATpeoplepc.com


Replace the AT in the address w/ @

Rod forest lake tractor 651 464 4628
75 Tips
 
BlackThumb,To save you grief and headaches get a replacement pan.Without removing the pan and properly clean up of the oil that has filled the crack welding it in place will be very hard to get a good weld with oil contaminating it.Or remove it to properly clean it and weld it on both inside and outside.
 
(quoted from post at 07:50:47 07/14/16) BlackThumb,To save you grief and headaches get a replacement pan.Without removing the pan and properly clean up of the oil that has filled the crack welding it in place will be very hard to get a good weld with oil contaminating it.Or remove it to properly clean it and weld it on both inside and outside.

That's one of the reasons I both want a replacement AND to weld the one I've got. Never done a weld with cast iron but I know the theory and process well enough that I'm wanting to give it a try. Plan on putting a replacement on while working on the repair, that way there's no rush to get the tractor back up and working.
 
BlackThumb,I have had great success brazing N ford oil pans, drill stopping the crack ving the crack ,clamp or bolt the pan rail to a heavy piece of angle to prevent warp-age and brazing it up.
 
BlackThumb, I have had great success brazing N ford oil pans, drill stopping the crack ving the crack ,clamp or bolt the pan rail to a heavy piece of angle to prevent warp-age and brazing it up.
 

That's what I would do as well, braze it. It is surprising how strong a brass weld can be. A friend was restoring a '52 IH pickup and brought me the exhaust manifold to try and fix.

The end tab for bolting it to the head was broken clean off.
I Vee'd it out the joint, poured the coals to it and it is still holding today.

In this case, where leakage rather than strength is the important factor, brass is the best insurance.
 
Where you located? I've got a couple of extras...a cold six pack and you can have one. May not be worth shipping too far though. I'm in central Indiana. Dan
 
Do clean and v the crack, torch out oil, do bolt it to a true edge. Some copper or brass foil will keep it from welding to the brace.

Get some arc rod specifically for cast. I picked up a # at the gas supplier store when I last welded some cast, did fine.

Dont forget to weld the face after the rest us done, then grind and file true for the gasket.
 
(quoted from post at 14:31:41 07/14/16) Where you located? I've got a couple of extras...a cold six pack and you can have one. May not be worth shipping too far though. I'm in central Indiana. Dan

I'm in NW Oregon. Looking around today and there aren't any online less than 1000 miles away anyhow. Ebay, craigslist, and a few other sites' classified sections have been scoured. For some reason being on the left coast means I'm divorced from most ag suppliers.
 
I'm just above Olympia Wa. I have a '49 front mount you could have for the trip to pick it up. I've scavenged the distributor and manifold for my '50. If you're interested send me an email and I can send some pictures, and more info. I really don't want it to go to the scrap yard and would be thrilled to know it went for a good purpose.
 
My 9n pan has a 1/4 inch crack at the 3rd bolt hole on the right side. I put sealer on it to keep it from leaking. I have seen
three 8n's with the same short crack.
 
I would not bother welding it unless, you
just want to do it for practice. Good nickel
rod will cost more than the pan is worth.
And then there's the issue of warping it so
it leaks - which it likely will - both from
pin holes and from warpage so the gasket
doesn't seal properly. Lastly, unless you
have an oven big enough to post heat the
whole pan to about 900 degrees it will
likely crack - either at your welds or
conceivably, some place else.
If it was a rare, unique part and i was
willing to have the surface milled after
postheating maybe. But it's not rare.
Also, we're I to try to fix it I would weld,
not braze it.
But it's your pan...
 

Hobo,

Doh! You're right . . . I forgot about that.
One of these days I'll get around to trying arc welding on cast.
I've done lots of arc but never tried the cast rods.

Thanks,
T
 

Cool... If I wanted to prove I could do it money would not be the issue. I would call in my welding buds and go at it. If I had to do it then that's the way I would go.

A good used pan would be hard to beat :D
 
Been a busy couple weeks but back to tinkering on my tractors. I've been looking online and prices vary wildly; from $40 to $125 or so for a pan, plus shipping of course. I'd love to pay the $40 but would probably get one with hairline fractures where mine has the crack.

ArleninOR; where are you at?
 

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