Does anyone have a picture to post of the 9N oil pressure reserve valve? I would like to change the spring and see if I can increase my oil pressure without tearing the tractor apart......but I'm not sure what bolt on the front of the engine it is and can it be gotten to without taking the hood off again.......I just put this damn thing together........
- Thread starter Ron Tron
- Start date
rossow (mn)
Member
If like an 8N, it's easy to get to without tearing anything apart, although a bit of a tight space. Use a 15/16" open-end or box-end wrench. (I have to take mine out to prime one of my 8Ns if it sits for a few weeks without running.)
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
Look elsewhere. Low operational oil pressure is seldom if ever caused by or affected by that valve.
TOH
On my 2N, changing the spring did indeed raise the cold oil pressure. However, as soon as the engine warmed up, the pressure dropped down to the same near-zero pressure as before changing the spring.
The 2N is awaiting tear-down and repair. I'm expecting that it needs at least bearings and/or a pump rebuild. Hoping my son and I find time to work on it soon, but it's down the priority list a bit still.
The 2N is awaiting tear-down and repair. I'm expecting that it needs at least bearings and/or a pump rebuild. Hoping my son and I find time to work on it soon, but it's down the priority list a bit still.
Unless the spring somehow got weak, broken, the plunger or seat somehow deformed or debris is trapped keeping plunger open then a lack of oil pressure is most likely caused by something else. If you pull the spring and plunger out, keep in mind there is a relief cut or flat on the plunger tip to allow some oil to bypass and lube the cam gear.
[b:e9bd031f30]please explain.......how do you do this (just simply take it out and put it back together or what) and what does the priming do?
Mine has been sitting for years before this external rebuild[/b:e9bd031f30]
u prime the oil pump if it stops pumping oil thru the engine, as evidenced by a complete lack of oil pressure. to do so, u remove the plug in the picture JMOR posted, and then, with a piece of hose or other method to get thru the inch or so gap behind that plug, u deliver a few ounces (i read a recommendation of 4 or 5 ounces of 90W) of oil thru the rear hole (on the other side of the gap i mentioned), which gets that oil to the oil pump. at this point, u replace the plug and hopefully, u have oil pressure again.
it's common for the pump to lose prime during a rebuild. it can also lose prime if it's badly worn, and then sits for an extended period.
i should add - when u rotate the crank with the oil pan off, you're causing the oil pump to push out the oil that's in it, but there's no more oil to replace it - hence the lost prime.
i did an in-frame rebuild this past winter. while my oil pump seems fine, i still had to prime it after i was done. but when u know what to do (hint: reading this forum tends to increase the likelihood of that
), it's an easy fix.I do have an oil reading..........its just low.......18 psi open throttle or 5 or 10 psi half throttle...........could it still be a priming problem......or do you have to show no oil pressure at all?
Again mine has been sitting for years and I didn't do any internal work only external, mostly wiring and 12 volt conversion and new battery etc
If it was mine, I would pull the engine, put it in an engine stand to work on. Once you get it opened up you may find a lot more work is needed.
To pull the pan, the front of the tractor has to be removed. I think it is a lot easier to just pull the engine to work on it. If the crankshaft needs to be turned, you cannot pull it without removing the motor from the tractor.
I get the feeling that you do not have a FO-4 service manual, if not now would be avery good time to get one and start reading. Get a new version. there are older versions out there that do not have all the information in them.
Good luck
To pull the pan, the front of the tractor has to be removed. I think it is a lot easier to just pull the engine to work on it. If the crankshaft needs to be turned, you cannot pull it without removing the motor from the tractor.
I get the feeling that you do not have a FO-4 service manual, if not now would be avery good time to get one and start reading. Get a new version. there are older versions out there that do not have all the information in them.
Good luck
To drop the pan you have to remove everything in front of the engine to get the pan off to replace the pump, if that is your problem, if the problems is with the bearings a good chance that the crankshaft journals will have to be turned and new bearing fit. By the time you get the pan off, it is only a few more bolts to remove the engine. Your choice, I don't like laying underneath an engine to work on it.
Good luck
[b:8a1a9849cf]To pull the pan, the front of the tractor has to be removed.[/b:8a1a9849cf]
when i did my rebuild, i wasn't aware of this issue. since then, i've seen it said fairly often. not knowing any differently at the time, i just supported the radius rods and bottom of trans, and then dropped the pan. i don't remember if i used any additional support under the front, i don't think i did - think i was satisfied with supporting the radius rods. iirc, someone said the big issue was getting the pan with the new gasket back in place again, but i had no problem there. seems to me we raised up the front of the pan first, then pivoted the rear up into place. i won't swear to that now - but whatever we did, it was problem-free.
i've never messed with the oil pump, and i sure hope i never will. but i'm confused by the removal of the front end thing. if u want to, sure - but i can't figure out why it's needed.
now i'm confused again. what i did left the front axle/wheels still attached to the rest of the tractor. in my opinion, i did not remove the front end. i couldn't have rolled anything anywhere yet. the steering arms and radius rods were not disconnected.
in spite of this, i had no problem dropping and then replacing the oil pan, so i don't understand why people say u have to remove the front end to do it. i thought removing the front end meant that u could indeed roll it around to wherever.
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