governor question?

Mad Farmer

Well-known Member
Location
Northeast
I had to replace the manifold on my 1940 9n. First aftermarket one would not clear the throttle linkage even after grinding on the manifold. I got a second one which fit up great and good clearnace with linkage.

Now the tractor seems to race a bit going downhill and takes more time to throttle down. Not sure what has happened? Linkages are all free and no worn out/play. Am I missing something? Gaskets on carb and manifold were replaced and permatex aviation sealer used on both, not likely an air leak.

Any thing I should do to check the governor? Otherwise tractor runs fine w/good power
 

no ideas for u, mad - but i couldn't pass up the opportunity to complain about replacement manifolds.

why is it that these things invariably are just wrong? what did ford do with the original design that defies an accurate replacement for it? yours interfered with the throttle linkage, and u couldn't fix it. i had to grind mine to be able to get even a cheap thin walled socket on the first and last nut - i was lucky, at least my customizing was able to fix my issue - kinda.

seems like a manifold that just bolts on and works is the exception to the rule. it won't surprise me to read one day that someone replaced their manifold and now their PTO won't engage.
 
This is a third from OEM. That one rotted at the sealing surface and leaked. Should have had a machine shop surface it. LOL

Second one fit great from tractor supply, but plowing snow a snowbank grabbed the muffler and broke it. Got 20 years out of it.

Last replacement was a POS that would not fit, then got another that fit well. And yes some of the aftermarket need some grinding just to get a socket on the nuts.

I hate putting Chi-Com parts on but can't find OEM that are not rotten. Take a shunt regulator for instance.......I now just use a jumper w/two alligator clips.
 
(quoted from post at 17:02:52 07/10/16)
no ideas for u, mad - but i couldn't pass up the opportunity to complain about replacement manifolds.

why is it that these things invariably are just wrong? what did ford do with the original design that defies an accurate replacement for it? yours interfered with the throttle linkage, and u couldn't fix it. i had to grind mine to be able to get even a cheap thin walled socket on the first and last nut - i was lucky, at least my customizing was able to fix my issue - kinda.

seems like a manifold that just bolts on and works is the exception to the rule. it won't surprise me to read one day that someone replaced their manifold and now their PTO won't engage.

I guess I got lucky with the one I installed Saturday
it fit perfectly with no linkage bind or bolt head clearance issues.
The exhaust tube clamp was a different story I had to
remove nearly 1/8" per side of the I.D. circle and all of the inside riser to get it to clamp tight go figure....
 

cliff, i may have exaggerated a tiny bit for dramatic effect. i've been known to do it once or twice over the years ;)

but u leave me wondering anyway, since u mentioned bolts. by any chance, are the heads of those bolts 5/8" ? the normal brass nuts are 11/16".
 
(quoted from post at 18:08:35 07/11/16)
cliff, i may have exaggerated a tiny bit for dramatic effect. i've been known to do it once or twice over the years ;)

but u leave me wondering anyway, since u mentioned bolts. by any chance, are the heads of those bolts 5/8" ? the normal brass nuts are 11/16".
HFJ, if my memory serves (which is always suspect) the brass
nuts are 5/8 and steel nuts are 11/16. That was why I couldn't
get a socket on a steel nut but could on the brass ones.
That 1/16 of an inch made enough difference.
 
(quoted from post at 15:08:35 07/11/16)
cliff, i may have exaggerated a tiny bit for dramatic effect. i've been known to do it once or twice over the years ;)

but u leave me wondering anyway, since u mentioned bolts. by any chance, are the heads of those bolts 5/8" ? the normal brass nuts are 11/16".

My bad; I used the brass nuts on studs and they were 11/16"
no socket issue
 
(quoted from post at 22:19:29 07/11/16)
(quoted from post at 15:08:35 07/11/16)
cliff, i may have exaggerated a tiny bit for dramatic effect. i've been known to do it once or twice over the years ;)

but u leave me wondering anyway, since u mentioned bolts. by any chance, are the heads of those bolts 5/8" ? the normal brass nuts are 11/16".

My bad; I used the brass nuts on studs and they were 11/16"
no socket issue

Dang it no edit,.. 5/8" most all else is 11/16"
 
(quoted from post at 22:23:35 07/11/16)
(quoted from post at 22:19:29 07/11/16)
(quoted from post at 15:08:35 07/11/16)
cliff, i may have exaggerated a tiny bit for dramatic effect. i've been known to do it once or twice over the years ;)

but u leave me wondering anyway, since u mentioned bolts. by any chance, are the heads of those bolts 5/8" ? the normal brass nuts are 11/16".

My bad; I used the brass nuts on studs and they were 11/16"
no socket issue

Dang it ! no edit,.. 5/8" most all else is 11/16"

Double dang it !! ,now I gotta go check I'm not sure
if memory serves right, gittin old sucks.....
 

[b:01a0de01d9]Double dang it !! ,now I gotta go check I'm not sure
if memory serves right, gittin old sucks.....[/b:01a0de01d9]

LOL - you're right, but this time, it's MY memory. i just got back from the pole barn, after saying "i gotta check it" myself lolol.

turns out i'm the senile one - in an unexpected way. i feel pretty stupid for having thought the steel nuts on my studs were brass.

but not as stupid as i'd have felt if i had learned i'd been tightening 5/8" nuts with an 11/16" socket :lol:

which also means i owe the manufacturers of my manifold an apology. it's not THEIR fault i've got non-standard parts.
 

i figure the deck was stacked against me when both of u guys remembered different :oops:

but i still didn't trust the magnet until i took a nut off ;)
 

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