12v conversion complete but questions

vidaliaman · Jul 9, 2016

couple more questions regarding my 12v one wire conversion, #1: still have the original ammeter from 6v system and now the needle is all the way to the right, do i need a 12v ammeter? #2: i was checking the battery with my digital multi meter and battery showed 12.9 while tractor is not running, while running my ammeter was throwing all kind of numbers, i believe i remember this discussion before, what is best way to tell if my new 12v one wire system is charging my battery, if i were checking my chevy pickup i would test battery while running looking for 14v+

thanks dave

Dune Country · Jul 9, 2016

Doesn't matter to the ammeter 6V or 12V.
If you new alt is 60 amp and the gauge is 30-30 amp it will peg the needle and possibly ruin the gauge.

For some reason most old tractors don't like digital meters, if you have an analog meter use that.

If you change out the ammeter and don't really care about authenticity get a volt meter instead.

R Geiger · Jul 9, 2016

I did a one wire conversion this past year and my original amp meter is never pegged, and only shows a charge for a short time. Be careful, you may be overcharging your battery.

Bruce (VA) · Jul 9, 2016

Re the meter, see tip # 47. And as dune county said, it reads amps, not volts. But if its pegging, its putting out more tha 30 amps. Or its wired wrong.
75 Tips

vidaliaman · Jul 9, 2016

with needle all the way to the right(pos), is that what you all mean when you say pegged?

Bruce (VA) · Jul 9, 2016

R Geiger · Jul 9, 2016

(quoted from post at 15:27:57 07/09/16) with needle all the way to the right(pos), is that what you all mean when you say pegged?

Yep, as in can't go any further, the needle is sitting on the peg. Mine only shows 15 amps for a short time and drops back to close to zero.

vidaliaman · Jul 9, 2016

how many amps should the 12v conversion kit altenator i purchased from YT be putting out?

thanks dave

Bruce (VA) · Jul 9, 2016

Beats me.

R Geiger · Jul 9, 2016

Normally speaking an alternator will only put out the current flow that is required to charge the battery and will drop back to allow charge fairly quick. I went out and fired mine up and when the alternator kicked in, started to charge, it showed about 15 amps and with a couple of minutes of running it was sitting at about 1 or 2 amps.
I see no specs on the YT parts listing, but I did find one ires listed at 63 amps and 37 amps.
If yours is showing a 30 amp rate and stays up, I would try a different battery to start with. If the charging rate does not drop off with a known good battery, I would call YT. You could have a bad alternator. Double check, triple check to make sure the wiring is correct also.

rvirgil_KS · Jul 9, 2016

Alternator amp ratings are for maximum load demand at maximum RPM. If regulator is working they should only put out enough to meet the charge demand of the battery, plus distributor ignition, plus lights, and only the battery charge should be going through the ammeter.

What does the meter read when you turn the engine off? Any chance the needle momentarily pegged and stuck.

Compared to a water system, volts = pressure, amps = rate of flow, watts = total consumption. In a tractor or vehicle a volt meter does not care about amps and an amp meter does not care about volts, they both supply different but pertinent information.

Royse · Jul 9, 2016

The other guys have pretty much covered it for you.
If the battery is fully charged, the ammeter should basically
show zero. Center of the gauge. Higher when charging.

I have voltmeters in some of mine. Both have their place.
However, if you opt for a voltmeter the wiring is different.
Easier actually, but you can't just put a voltmeter in the
wiring where the ammeter was and expect it to work.

Hobo,NC · Jul 9, 2016

If the battery was low enough are the loads were high enoufh and all the stars in the universe lined up it shroud output with in 10% of rated output. That's a fact I did not make that UP!

Most all reman alts use a 65 amp stator why because that's the standard stator the price is the same it makes no scene to stock are use a 35 amp stator.

About the only reason it may not max out is the RPM is to low, the alt RPM for max out put can not be achieved are a loose belt are wrong alt pulley combination. Thats why most never see anything above 15/30 amps they do not have there all there ducks in a row..

If you have a 12V alt there is no reason to use a amp meter it makes no sense at all other than eye candy... Remove that amp meter and install a voltmeter in that hole... Life will be good..

Royse · Jul 9, 2016

"About the only reason it may not max out is the RPM is to low"

I'm not following you here Hobo.
If an alternator put out it's maximum rated current all the time
we would boil our batteries dry in a very short period of time.

If his ammeter is pegged full right, there is a problem.
I can't say what it is, gauge, wiring, alternator, battery,
whatever, but something isn't right.
A voltmeter may mask that problem but will not fix it.

tractorguy2 · Jul 9, 2016

I have a 9n 12v conversion. It has a 60 amp alternator with 30 amp meter. When I have a new battery. The charging rate is about 5amp. When my battery starts gets weak it will show 15amp to 20 amp. My old school multi meter shows 14 volts when running.

The one and only time it has ever pegged the needle was when I had a totally dead battery and jump started it.

I have had the tractor for 18 years. Has the same amp meter it when I bought it. My battery had it's 9th birthday last February.

vidaliaman · Jul 10, 2016

the diagram i used is from my ford tractors site... LATE 8N and 53 Jub. FORD TRACTOR SIDE DISTRIBUTOR?12 VOLT?1 WIRE, this
diagram worked great on one of my other tractors, my dad mowed for 3 hours yesterday with out any problems in wacousta
michigan(Lawson's neighborhood) however i am still nervous with overcharging, if this was happening on one of your
tractors(ammeter pegged) what would you check first? and then second? when i flip the new 12v light switch on i can hear a very
slight change in motor

thanks again
dave

Hobo,NC · Jul 10, 2016

(quoted from post at 09:04:57 07/10/16) "About the only reason it may not max out is the RPM is to low"

I'm not following you here Hobo.
If an alternator put out it's maximum rated current all the time
we would boil our batteries dry in a very short period of time.

If his ammeter is pegged full right, there is a problem.
I can't say what it is, gauge, wiring, alternator, battery,
whatever, but something isn't right.
A voltmeter may mask that problem but will not fix it.

how many amps should the 12v conversion kit altenator i purchased from YT be putting out?

thanks dave

My answer.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 7:36 am Post subject: Re: 12v conversion complete but questions

If the battery was low enough are the loads were high enoufh and all the stars in the universe lined up it shroud output with in 10% of rated output. That's a fact I did not make that UP!

Royse · Jul 10, 2016

(quoted from post at 09:15:45 07/10/16)

(quoted from post at 09:04:57 07/10/16) "About the only reason it may not max out is the RPM is to low"

I'm not following you here Hobo.
If an alternator put out it's maximum rated current all the time
we would boil our batteries dry in a very short period of time.

If his ammeter is pegged full right, there is a problem.
I can't say what it is, gauge, wiring, alternator, battery,
whatever, but something isn't right.
A voltmeter may mask that problem but will not fix it.

Click to expand...

how many amps should the 12v conversion kit altenator i purchased from YT be putting out?

thanks dave

My answer.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 7:36 am Post subject: Re: 12v conversion complete but questions

If the battery was low enough are the loads were high enoufh and all the stars in the universe lined up it shroud output with in 10% of rated output. That's a fact I did not make that UP!

Ahh, now I see what you meant.
Maximum output, not normal operating output.
Thanks for clearing that up for me.

R Geiger · Jul 10, 2016

(quoted from post at 05:50:18 07/10/16) the diagram i used is from my ford tractors site... LATE 8N and 53 Jub. FORD TRACTOR SIDE DISTRIBUTOR?12 VOLT?1 WIRE, this
diagram worked great on one of my other tractors, my dad mowed for 3 hours yesterday with out any problems in wacousta
michigan(Lawson's neighborhood) however i am still nervous with overcharging, if this was happening on one of your
tractors(ammeter pegged) what would you check first? and then second? when i flip the new 12v light switch on i can hear a very
slight change in motor

thanks again
dave

If the amp meter reads o when not running and is pegged all the time when it is running, you have a problem. I would take the battery and the alternator to a shop and have them checked.I would not be running it until I found the problem.

Hobo,NC · Jul 10, 2016

Start here.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/

To answer your question you will need a volt meter reading.

souNdguy · Jul 11, 2016

Do you have your dash meter wired as net charge, or total output.

Dont tell me its wired lil you found it. Tell me how its wired.

On your vom, do you know how to make a proper voltage measurement? Amp measurement?

Hobo,NC · Jul 11, 2016

A voltmeter may mask that problem but will not fix it.

I don't understand that statement if its overcharging the volts will show that. If he's getting above 15V are above who cares what the amps read its overcharging. If it were reversed and it showed 13.6V who cares what the amps are its undercharging.

A voltmeter is gonna be his #1 diagnostic tool no matter what anyone makes up to defend a amp meter.

The only time I check amps is to confirm the alt is capable of putting out with-in 10% of its ratted capacity.

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