Brush hog design

OK8N

Member
Does anyone have an opinion on the functionality of this rear top link brace (see chain) on a 5' brush hog? All the brush hogs I see have solid bracing. I have about 2 hours experience using a brush hog.

bhog2.jpg
 
That looks just like the cutter I have. I have used it for about 10 years without problems. The chain on the top link allows the cutter to raise up and over uneven ground without bending the bar.

Danny
 
I like a brush mower with a chain set up like that one.
It lets the mower float a little better.
Mine is a solid connection but half the time I don't hook the top link to my mower unless I have to transport it somewhere. I mow a lot of small swales and moguls and it works better.
I hook it to the lower lift arms, set the height in front and let it ride on the tail wheel. You have to have your drive shaft set to the right length.
 
I use the sliding top link in the picture on my brush hog. As was mentioned above, it lets the brush hog move up when on uneven ground.

I also sometimes use it with my box blade when scraping off a sprouting weed crop on my 5 acres of gently rolling hills. It takes a less aggressive cut and keeps things looking smoother with only the weight of the box blade keeping it on the ground.

F-SlidingLinkandChains2.jpg
 
In a bad situation that will let the hog flip up on your head. OWCH!!!

Better to have a solid link and a pivot (JD type) or slot ( Howse type) to allow the hog to float a bit.
 
(quoted from post at 08:28:05 03/30/11) In a bad situation that will let the hog flip up on your head. OWCH!!!

Better to have a solid link and a pivot (JD type) or slot ( Howse type) to allow the hog to float a bit.

I don't know if you're referring to the OP's set up or mine, but I don't see the brush hog flipping over on anybody's head in either set up. On mine it will only go up to where the sliding link goes to it's shortest length, then there is also the drive shaft to stop that in either set up.

As heavy as a brush hog is, I can't imagine any situation making it flip up over the driver. Or maybe you were referring to just pulling a brush hog with no top link. I would still imagine that the drive shaft would keep it from flipping.
 
I've never seen that type of toplink Caryc.
But that would be just the cat's meow - lets your mower float but at the same time let you raise the mower a couple of inches off the ground if need be.
A agree with you above - can't imagine a circumstance that would flip a heavy bush mower up onto the operator.
 
(quoted from post at 09:03:11 03/30/11)- can't imagine a circumstance that would flip a heavy bush mower up onto the operator.


Dog you ain't seen my brother in law around machinery! He could be a poster boy for a safety poster!

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 09:03:11 03/30/11) I've never seen that type of toplink Caryc.
But that would be just the cat's meow - lets your mower float but at the same time lets you raise the mower a couple of inches off the ground if need be.
A agree with you above - can't imagine a circumstance that would flip a heavy bush mower up onto the operator.

Yeah, that top link was evidently hand made. It was on the tractor when I purchased it It's pretty neat. It will let the mower ride on the ground or raise it up over a foot off the ground for transporting.

Sometime if I think about it and have time, I'll make a drawing of it with dimensions if someone wants to make one.
 
Never seen one like what you have but I have seen them with a pair of arms with a short chain on them which will do the same as yours. They work real well on ground that has a lot of small ups and downs and help hold things like you want them so you do not have to be lifting the hog up and down all the time
 
didn't flip it onto the op, but flipped it into the back of the tractor and the rops on a county mowing machine where they were using a 3pt mower with a chain toplink and hit a STUMP.. dented int he front of the mower, made it flip up.. the pto shaft turned into a pretzle and obviously offered no support to prevent the flip up whatsoever as it did not even damage the gearbox.. I guess that rotation and pressur emade it bow out to a side and then when it went, it went. guess the op was glad our county had expanded metal across the back of his rops as i'm sure things were still spinning around when it came up. was a 6' ower on some sort of 3910 or 3930 trator..

had that been a slightly smaller tractor like a N or naa and no rops.. I see where it could have tagged the operator.. that's why I favor a rigid toplink with some sort of flex link or slot in it.. allows float but locks up in either direction for lifting or pushing.

soundguy
 
(quoted from post at 11:22:05 03/30/11) God be with you

Just to be clear here. Who's setup are you taking about. Who is the one that is going to die?

I wonder how fast that city worker was going when he flipped that implement up?

My brush hog runs behind my tractor in first gear. Never use it in any higher gear and just don't see it flipping up and killing me. My tractor has a heavy Davis FEL on it so I don't see me flipping the tractor over on the brush hog either.

Mind you, I'm not saying it can't be done. I do agree with you on your attitude about safety though. One can never be too safe.

Had to add this. My brush hog runs well in first gear because I keep the blades sharp. I sharpen them every season. It's a Woods brush hog and has the hole in the top cover for access to the blades. I can grab a socket wrench and pull the blades out in a couple minutes time.

Take out any big nicks on the grinder and finish up the edge on a belt sander.

I've never understood why all brush hogs don't have top access to the blades. I can't see having to crawl under one or flip one up on edge to access the blades.
 
The chain was installed by the manufacture. Its intent is to simulate a pull behind bushog, with support being the two side lift arms and the tail wheel and the top link to only function when lifting. Works okay if your lifting arms are not worn and the position control is working okay, Draft control only tractors )9N, 2N) usually have a problem, therfore adding a depth chain fron lift arms to center link, usually helps.
Worh lft arms linkage also allows the flop up and down from side to side. 2 tail wheels solve this problem.
I have an old Love (solid hook up) and the chain type. Both work better on a Ford 600, with rebuilt position control.
Charles Krammin SW MI
 
If that thing whips up around your body good luck.

Same reasoning as why you need a solid top link for pulling a
trailer w/9N 3pt drawbar.
 
(quoted from post at 19:24:05 03/30/11) If that thing whips up around your body good luck.

Same reasoning as why you need a solid top link for pulling a
trailer w/9N 3pt drawbar.

You still haven't said which one of us is shaking hands with the Grim Reaper? Can you be a little specific as to who you are speaking to?
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:57 03/30/11) Does anyone have an opinion on the functionality of this rear top link brace (see chain) on a 5' brush hog? All the brush hogs I see have solid bracing. I have about 2 hours experience using a brush hog.

<img src="http://okiedoke.com/8n/bhog2.jpg">
this is my first post so please forgive all the errors. I have a mower just like the one pictured. Do you have anymore info on it?
 

Old,

That's what the top link arms are like on my MF 59.
Got the tail wheel restored now and all the A-frame parts prepped for painting today. Putting Amsoil 75W110 synthetic gear lube in the gearbox.
37635.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 09:04:45 07/06/16)
Old,

That's what the top link arms are like on my MF 59.
Got the tail wheel restored now and all the A-frame parts prepped for painting today. Putting Amsoil 75W110 synthetic gear lube in the gearbox.
37635.jpg

Did you swipe my hog? :wink: :wink:

I got mine a couple of years ago. Need to rebuild the top of it. PO didn't take very good care of it and it's got some rust holes in it.

Rick
 
"I got mine a couple of years ago. Need to rebuild the top of it. PO didn't take very good care of it and it's got some rust holes in it."

Rick,

As you can see, my deck is ratty too so I'll have to get some sheet metal cut to fit, with folded up edges to meet the outside angle iron frame.

Even if our previous owners had observed where the water was pooling up, a few drilled water drain holes would have done wonders.

By the way. about gear lube . . .
There's a small plug half way up the backside of the gearbox
and I'm assuming that one adds gear lube until it starts to weep out that pipe plug hole. Is that right?

Thanks,
Terry
 

[b:acb450f708]By the way. about gear lube . . .
There's a small plug half way up the backside of the gearbox
and I'm assuming that one adds gear lube until it starts to weep out that pipe plug hole. Is that right?[/b:acb450f708]

i sure hope so, since that's how i do mine :)
 
(quoted from post at 12:28:10 07/06/16)
[b:a7dea9fec9]By the way. about gear lube . . .
There's a small plug half way up the backside of the gearbox
and I'm assuming that one adds gear lube until it starts to weep out that pipe plug hole. Is that right?[/b:a7dea9fec9]

i sure hope so, since that's how i do mine :)

Me too!

Rick
 
Thanks guys,

There's a nasty gash in the front shaft recess that looks to have been made with a blade. Not sure of the shaft rotation but if the blade travelled clockwise then the blade would have escaped. If it made the cut counterclockwise then maybe the poor old thing just bottomed out in that cut. I hope there isn't any gearbox damage as a result. I'm surprised the blade got up that high.

Anyway, there's a flap of metal hanging down so I'm going to jack up the front and put an anvil under and heat the top till it lays flat.

Next question:
Is there supposed to be a solid skirt across the front?
I'd like to see a few photos of the fronts of these pigs. :)
37638.jpg
37639.jpg
 

On most mowers there is a bar or maybe two in your case that bolts to the front of the mower. There are small lengths (maybe 4 or 4) links hanging down from that bar all across the front of the mower to stop any flying debris.
 

Cary,

Thanks.
I thought that the chain skirts were only on the rears of these rigs.
Maybe a rack/bar of short chains was bolted to those two empty holes.

Terry
 
I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?
 
(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?

With a solid brace and top link, if you hit something big enough your mower will jump up in the air. There is no hydraulics holding your mower down.

If you were strong enough you could grab the end of your mower and pick it up and all your hydraulic linkage and lift arms would move up.
 

What do you think happens with box blades when they hit a big buried rock or stump? They jump up.
 
(quoted from post at 19:22:37 07/06/16)
(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?

With a solid brace and top link, if you hit something big enough your mower will jump up in the air. There is no hydraulics holding your mower down.

If you were strong enough you could grab the end of your mower and pick it up and all your hydraulic linkage and lift arms would move up.
That makes good sense, but I still like the chain set up. kinda of apples and oranges.
 

[b:958d908dc8]With a solid brace and top link, if you hit something big enough your mower will jump up in the air. There is no hydraulics holding your mower down. [/b:958d908dc8]

my mower uses a special system to keep it from flying up. it's an ancient howse, and the deck is (i'm no metallurgist, but i'm pretty sure here) made from 3/8" plate of a unique alloy of steel and spent uranium. the thing is so heavy, it actually has its own gravitational field. if you're silly enough to try to pick it up with the N, u need several of the largest folk in the neighborhood sitting on the hood.

it dares obstacles to deflect it upwards ;)
 
My brush hog runs well in first gear because I keep the blades sharp. I sharpen them every season.......

Take out any big nicks on the grinder and finish up the edge on a belt sander.

Sounds like you keep a nice place . I just wanted to add an FYI for some of the readers here . If you have large bushes , small trees , etc and livestock you may want to bush hog with a slightly dull blade . A sharp blade can cut the larger stuff and leave a sharp pointed spear sticking out of the ground . A dull blade usually leaves a stalk that looks like it exploded with dozens of frail fibers sticking up . Dull blades are not as efficient , use more horsepower , and usually leave the field looking a little rough . Chances are if you have thick heavy pastures they are going to look rough no matter how slow you go . Once you get them cleaned up , which may take a couple seasons , the sharp blades are the way to go .
 
(quoted from post at 18:59:36 07/06/16)
My brush hog runs well in first gear because I keep the blades sharp. I sharpen them every season.......

Take out any big nicks on the grinder and finish up the edge on a belt sander.

Sounds like you keep a nice place . I just wanted to add an FYI for some of the readers here . If you have large bushes , small trees , etc and livestock you may want to bush hog with a slightly dull blade . A sharp blade can cut the larger stuff and leave a sharp pointed spear sticking out of the ground . A dull blade usually leaves a stalk that looks like it exploded with dozens of frail fibers sticking up . Dull blades are not as efficient , use more horsepower , and usually leave the field looking a little rough . Chances are if you have thick heavy pastures they are going to look rough no matter how slow you go . Once you get them cleaned up , which may take a couple seasons , the sharp blades are the way to go .

I don't sharpen them "knife edge" sharp. I just bring the edge back to a nice V.
 
I don't sharpen them "knife edge" sharp. I just bring the edge back to a nice V.

I wasn't knocking a good sharp blade . I had a lot of 3/4" to 1-1/4" brush that looked barbaric . Just passing on some info that was passed on to me . In the grassy areas I don't think I could get a blade too sharp .
 
(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?

Now that's very interesting!

Another one of those glad-I-didn't-throw-that-junk-out moments.
I rounded up all my years of chain collection including a couple of old truck tire chains that I had picked away at over the years, and took them both apart.

Voila! My chain skirts and a few long side chains with their adjustable catches that I can use for hanging the front.
Took me a while to get them apart but saved me a ton of work compared to other plans I was working on. I can simply hang these from the back angle iron and spot weld them. :D

I'm hoping no one says that these cross chains are too light.
37653.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 19:44:18 07/06/16)
(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?

Now that's very interesting!

Another one of those glad-I-didn't-throw-that-junk-out moments.
I rounded up all my years of chain collection including a couple of old truck tire chains that I had picked away at over the years, and took them both apart.

Voila! My chain skirts and a few long side chains with their adjustable catches that I can use for hanging the front.
Took me a while to get them apart but saved me a ton of work compared to other plans I was working on. I can simply hang these from the back angle iron and spot weld them. :D

I'm hoping no one says that these cross chains are too light.
37653.jpg

If you put chains on the front or your mower, just make sure they are not long enough to make contact with the mower blades since the brush will be pushing those chains back under the mower.

Come to think of it maybe the pictures I'm remembering were mowers with chains on the sides and back. The blown up parts diagram on my M5 Woods mower shows them used on the sides and back. It had a solid piece that bolted on the front which is missing on mine anyway.

Does anybody else remember seeing chains used on the front of a mower?
 
(quoted from post at 22:00:44 07/06/16)
(quoted from post at 19:44:18 07/06/16)
(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?

Now that's very interesting!

Another one of those glad-I-didn't-throw-that-junk-out moments.
I rounded up all my years of chain collection including a couple of old truck tire chains that I had picked away at over the years, and took them both apart.

Voila! My chain skirts and a few long side chains with their adjustable catches that I can use for hanging the front.
Took me a while to get them apart but saved me a ton of work compared to other plans I was working on. I can simply hang these from the back angle iron and spot weld them. :D

I'm hoping no one says that these cross chains are too light.
37653.jpg

If you put chains on the front or your mower, just make sure they are not long enough to make contact with the mower blades since the brush will be pushing those chains back under the mower.

Come to think of it maybe the pictures I'm remembering were mowers with chains on the sides and back. The blown up parts diagram on my M5 Woods mower shows them used on the sides and back. It had a solid piece that bolted on the front which is missing on mine anyway.

Does anybody else remember seeing chains used on the front of a mower?
______________________________

And if the chains had to be so short that they couldn't be pushed into the blades, they'd be next to useless there anyway. Now take the cut-a-way steel panel, offering some outgoing projectile protection . . . and maybe even acting as the early warning system, that one is about to jump a stump by scraping the top of the stump.

So cutting in first gear like you do, you might gain a hair's worth more of reaction time with a stiffer front guard than chains. :)
 
The Drawing board

An arc out front of the hog, such as a leaf spring, with a row of chains hanging from it. That way the central chains could be long and couldn't be pushed as far as the blades.

Maybe use those two beaconing holes on mine, for two pipe extension mounting points for that arc of chains. I'm wondering about inner tractor tire protection, being a newbie.

How about a rigid grill, again extended out front but of rebar-sized long teeth.

Maybe teeth on a frame shaped even more like a ships bow, two way plow, that would potentially roll a stone or wood block off to the side.
 
SO I took the weekend to setup my brush cutter the way it is supposed to be. Its an Andy 500 unit. I set the thing up on 4 jackstands and crawled under and took the stump jumper off so I could put new blades on it. The old ones were BAD. Had to use the torch and some wax to get the blade bolts off. Got new blades on it, and tightened the stump jumper on good as it was loose before. Used a lot of anti seize to make sure it stuck.

I set up the cutter with the blade about 4" in the front and 5.5-6" in the back, and set the limiter chains and all that. Cuts like a dream now! I was running through hood-high grass in second gear like it was nothing, and it left a nice clean cut!

Make sure you set your cutter up right!
 
(quoted from post at 08:55:14 07/07/16) SO I took the weekend to setup my brush cutter the way it is supposed to be. Its an Andy 500 unit. I set the thing up on 4 jackstands and crawled under and took the stump jumper off so I could put new blades on it. The old ones were BAD. Had to use the torch and some wax to get the blade bolts off. Got new blades on it, and tightened the stump jumper on good as it was loose before. Used a lot of anti seize to make sure it stuck.

I set up the cutter with the blade about 4" in the front and 5.5-6" in the back, and set the limiter chains and all that. Cuts like a dream now! I was running through hood-high grass in second gear like it was nothing, and it left a nice clean cut!

Make sure you set your cutter up right!

Are you sure you needed to remove your stump jumper to remove the blades? You saw the picture of my stump jumper above. There is no need to remove it just to remove and sharpen the blades.
 
(quoted from post at 23:55:30 07/06/16) The Drawing board

An arc out front of the hog, such as a leaf spring, with a row of chains hanging from it. That way the central chains could be long and couldn't be pushed as far as the blades.

Maybe use those two beaconing holes on mine, for two pipe extension mounting points for that arc of chains. I'm wondering about inner tractor tire protection, being a newbie.

How about a rigid grill, again extended out front but of rebar-sized long teeth.

Maybe teeth on a frame shaped even more like a ships bow, two way plow, that would potentially roll a stone or wood block off to the side.

I got to thinking. Maybe chains are not used in the front of a mower since they might act as catchers and start building up weeds there. A solid piece on the front will just push over the weeds.
 
I gave the old King Kutter a slot for the toplink to float in, what a difference it made, should have done it years ago.Nothing is in a bind anymore.
37668.jpg
37671.jpg
 
Caryc, i do not have the holes in the top deck in order to drop the blades that way. And between the stump jumper and the top deck there is about 1/2" of clearance, i absolutely had to drop it. It was easy to put back on with a floor jack.
 

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