De-Gunking Engine Internals

So, my reassembly of my 2N got put off from last weekend. My engine shop didn't order all of the valve hardware that I wanted. They forgot to order new, single piece, guides to go with the new exhaust valves...so I ordered them myself from here.

In the meantime, I have been removing the carbon deposits and baked on oil sludge from the pistons...head...valve chamber and such using Easy Off No Fumes formula. So far, I have foamed up the parts, let them sit overnight and then cleaned with a plastic putty knife and a cloth. I removed a lot, but some of the burned on carbon needs another treatment.

After that, it seems that I need to use something to rinse down and give a final wipedown with rags.

Easy Off recommends warm soapy water for stoves.

Maybe not a good idea for my engine parts? Maybe diesel fuel instead?

I hate to create a tub full of dirty diesel to need to properly dispose of...but soapy water? Won't that invite rust?

I leave this chore to the machine shop. However you can use soapy water, just follow up with a thorough drying and a good wipe
of your favorite engine oil.

(quoted from post at 11:53:28 06/30/16) I leave this chore to the machine shop. However you can use soapy water, just follow up with a thorough drying and a good wipe
of your favorite engine oil.

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That's comforting.

So...Good hot, soapy water.

Wipe down with dry rags.

Maybe blast with some shop air to get the droplets.

Air dry a while.

Lots of oil applied to all surfaces before reassembly.

That should be OK?

cowboy, i'll add that, unlike so many of the jobs people mistakenly use WD-40 for, this is one that's actually a good fit. do all the other things u mentioned to dry things out, and then hose it all down with WD-40. i'd still oil stuff afterwards, regardless.

(quoted from post at 12:37:11 06/30/16)
cowboy, i'll add that, unlike so many of the jobs people mistakenly use WD-40 for, this is one that's actually a good fit. do all the other things u mentioned to dry things out, and then hose it all down with WD-40. i'd still oil stuff afterwards, regardless.

Click to expand...

Very good idea. It IS, after all, good for water displacement.

When you hone a cylinder it creates a microscopic dust . Using oil based solvents can actually embed the dust into the pours and grooves . Hot soapy water lifts the dust away from the cylinder .

Most folks I know use a gun cleaning kit to scrub the oil passages which is a bigger deal than most of the buildup elsewhere .

Number one in my book is proper rebuilding of the oil pump / bushing . These are some of the few motors that do not have a submerged oil pump . Most engine wear is during start up . If your pump is not holding oil it will take an extra second or two to build up enough pressure the hydraulically float the crank off of the bearings.

I would also pitch Rotella 15/40 T6 synthetic oil . I have seen motors that were "rebuilt" by a dirty mechanic that were actually cleaner 10k miles later when they needed rebuilt .

Just my two cent's - Ken(Ark)

(quoted from post at 16:00:24 06/30/16) When you hone a cylinder it creates a microscopic dust . Using oil based solvents can actually embed the dust into the pours and grooves . Hot soapy water lifts the dust away from the cylinder .

Most folks I know use a gun cleaning kit to scrub the oil passages which is a bigger deal than most of the buildup elsewhere .

Number one in my book is proper rebuilding of the oil pump / bushing . These are some of the few motors that do not have a submerged oil pump . Most engine wear is during start up . If your pump is not holding oil it will take an extra second or two to build up enough pressure the hydraulically float the crank off of the bearings.

I would also pitch Rotella 15/40 T6 synthetic oil . I have seen motors that were "rebuilt" by a dirty mechanic that were actually cleaner 10k miles later when they needed rebuilt .

Just my two cent's - Ken(Ark)

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tidbits!

Oven cleaner is good for external engine crud but I wouldn't use it internally simply for that reason; the best way to remove it is with soap and water. I use Pine Sol. Internal parts I use mineral spirits or a mixture of diesel fuel and ATF. These will all cut thru grease, oil, dirt, some rust and some paint. With mineral spirits, cleaning and then a good flushing is best and even if any residual is left over, it won't hurt the engine and internal parts. I use the same for hydraulic systems.


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

I used throttle body cleaner to remove the heavy build up. Worked like a charm. Plus it dry's out the part extremely well......anytime I clean engine parts I hit them with the stuff to clean micro oils and dirt from the part....the Wipe them with a light layer of WD40 to protect the metal.