Anyone try the valve spring compressor sold here for a 2N?

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
Frequent flyer lately. My apologies for so many questions.

So, another forum reader, answering another one of my questions, turned me on to some of the special tools that I can get from this site for my 2N.

For instance, the W84019 is a little tool that would help me to remove/install the crankshaft rope seals.

I also found 8WR1770, which is a set of tappet wrenches...which would be handy to me, since I'm converting my exhaust valves to adjustable tappets.

I also found B1SB9033 as a valve spring compressor.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/B1SB9033_Valve-Spring-Compressor_26278.htm


Has anybody tried one of these on a 2N, 9N or 8N?

If it works, I'm interested, because I'd like to have a nice, controlled way of compressing my springs during engine re-assembly. During disassembly, I used two tie rod pickle forks levered against each other (actually works). That was great for pulling crap out, but I have a feeling that it won't be steady enough to get the split "keepers" in place...and I might get a pinched finger if it slips.

So...does this compressor work for a 2N?
 
Lastcowboy,Yes the B1SB9033 will work good on your valve springs and help to keep your feelers intact.
 

Thanks,

I also saw this old thread.

I like the idea of grinding one out of a C-clamp!

I know that sucker will be strong enough and fit just right.
 

Here is the old thread:

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=7930924&sid=5ba7010b58bbea457696c9298a7e5462
 

That thread also included some advice on how to use a bent screwdriver. Interesting and fast, but I think I'll stick to the C clamp idea. Seems stable and more foolproof...which is good for a fool.
 

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1081321&highlight=drill

If the guides are not stuck a bent screwdriver is the way to go,,, either way you will need a bent screwdriver to install the valve assys.

Someone in another post told you how to replace the rear seal no W84019 tool needed... If you are doing a in chassis (I asked you did not give a answer) and the lower seal appear to be in good condition I would leave the upper seal ALONE.
 
(quoted from post at 13:04:25 06/22/16)
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1081321&highlight=drill

If the guides are not stuck a bent screwdriver is the way to go,,, either way you will need a bent screwdriver to install the valve assys.

Someone in another post told you how to replace the rear seal no W84019 tool needed... If you are doing a in chassis (I asked you did not give a answer) and the lower seal appear to be in good condition I would leave the upper seal ALONE.

Yes, it's an "in chassis"

The lower seals look OK, practically new. But there are also some new, unpainted bolts on the oil pan. That tells me that the pan has been off recently (I've had this tractor about two years myself). As such, I'm not sure that the lower seals are an indication of the condition of the upper seals. How many times has the logic of "the lower seal looks good, leave the upper alone" been applied to this tractor? Not sure.

The seals and tool cost me 17 bucks. I want to have them available when I reassemble, if I have any feeling that the upper seal doesn't look right to me.
 
Yes, it's an "in chassis"

The lower seals look OK, practically new. But there are also some new, unpainted bolts on the oil pan. That tells me that the pan has been off recently (I've had this tractor about two years myself). As such, I'm not sure that the lower seals are an indication of the condition of the upper seals. How many times has the logic of "the lower seal looks good, leave the upper alone" been applied to this tractor? Not sure.

The seals and tool cost me 17 bucks. I want to have them available when I reassemble, if I have any feeling that the upper seal doesn't look right to me.

There is as much logic in leaving the upper seal alone as there is to not change the main bearings . The extra movement of the crank will open up the clearance of a new seal . No sense closing the front door to keep flies out if your going to leave the back door open . If it is something you just want to do go for it , but that's the logic , if it is an oil leakage problem fix them both . By the way , they make a nice one piece neoprene front oil seal .
 

Logic would be to remove the crank inspect it for ware Repair/Replace,,, replace the rear seal correctly at that time...

I like tools as much as anyone that seal tool is not gonna get'er done unless you use a Fel-Pro rear seal... That Tool is called a Chinese Finger its for limp Graphite impregnated Rope seals the only seals like that are the Fep-pro type. I believe that's the type that was used originally NOW the issue Fel-Pro has two different sizes in the rear seal kit its up to you to determine which size to use. Good luck with that nether satisfy my Judgment..

The other option is all the other types I have seen that are hard and stiff a Chines finger taint gonna pull them around the crank..
 
I smell what you're steppin' in guys.

The crank will need attention at some point. Right now, I want to get my valves working well and get some better compression in the engine. So...rings and valves.

My friend at the engine shop inspected a piston that I took down to him and said that the rod bearings were still original size.

Since the rod bearings were relatively cheap. I picked them up too.

Critiquing myself...I started into the job thinking it was just valves...then I thought rings...and instead of splitting the tractor, I blocked it up and took off the front to get the oil pan off. I don't have a very good way to roll the block away from the rear of the tractor to remove the crank...now that I took my front end off.

I don't want to fiddle with splitting the tractor at this point, so I'll leave the crank as is. I'll leave the top seals as is.

I'll put it back together and see if my compression and performance is better and watch my oil pressure.

When my oil pressure looks concerning, I'll split the tractor, remove the crank and do it right.....maybe during the winter sometime when I'm not chomping at the bit to do some more hay.
 

I apologize for the hand wringing and waffling. It gets me a little anxious, because many parts can't be had just by going to the local equipment dealer. If I get my parts in, and I leave something out...then it's another five business day wait, or paying a king's ransom for express shipment.

So...I already ordered the seals and tools...while I was on here learning about whether to do the seals, how to do the seals, etc.

I'll have 17 bucks worth of extra stuff laying around.
 
Late to the party here, but...

I haven't used this valve compressor on an N engine, but I did buy one locally that looks just like that for use on a different flat head engine of the same vintage. On that engine, it wasn't tall enough to work properly. I modified an adjustable C-clamp instead, by cutting off the fixed part, and attaching the fixed part from that valve compressor (which is removable) instead. Basically, I ended up with the same thing--just longer and with adjustable length.

On the engine I had, it worked acceptably for removing valve springs. But I found it wasn't 100% stable, so it may have been interesting to reinstall them. But I never found out because the machine shop reinstalled the valve train for me.

-Paul
 
(quoted from post at 10:19:07 06/23/16) Late to the party here, but...

I haven't used this valve compressor on an N engine, but I did buy one locally that looks just like that for use on a different flat head engine of the same vintage. On that engine, it wasn't tall enough to work properly. I modified an adjustable C-clamp instead, by cutting off the fixed part, and attaching the fixed part from that valve compressor (which is removable) instead. Basically, I ended up with the same thing--just longer and with adjustable length.

On the engine I had, it worked acceptably for removing valve springs. But I found it wasn't 100% stable, so it may have been interesting to reinstall them. But I never found out because the machine shop reinstalled the valve train for me.

-Paul

Thanks.

At somewhere between 40 and 50 bucks, I wasn't going to gamble, unless I was sure that it would work. I left it out of my parts order.

There is the bent screwdriver trick and the modified C-clamp trick. Both of those methods can be tailored to the task at hand, so I'll stick to that for now.
 

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