Engine reassembly, where to goop and not to goop

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
I have my parts in to reassembly my 2N. I'm getting new rod bearings for all four pistons. New rings. Valve kits for the exhaust valves (to convert to new style). One replacement intake valve. (My intake valves are already new style, but one was beaten up...part of why I had to take the engine apart).

Aaaaaand...a gasket kit.

Based on people's experience here...some things that aren't in the manual...has anybody learned the hard way about...

Where should I use extra sealer on gaskets?
Where should thread locker be applied?

Anything that I should re-torque after x-number of hours of operation?

Thanks
 

The manual also says that I can replace the top half of the crankshaft rope seals at each end without removing the crankshaft.

That looks next to impossible.

Really?

Has anybody actually done this?
 

I'm also sanding and re-painting the block and frame. (Ford Grey).

Does anybody take any lead paint precautions when working on these old machines...or was lead paint only a problem in buildings???
 

my head gasket definitely squished over time. i think i was told retorque head after 1 hour of light duty use, and then retorque again after another 3 to 4 hours. on the first retorque, everything needed tightening - some a LOT. on the second, most had held torque, but a few still needed more.
 
Thread locker (blue) should only be used where items might unwind, ie connecting rod ends. Yet with the engines I have rebuilt, if it is correctly torqued it shouldnt need a locker. Now if it were a race car engine, I think that would be different.

Assembly lube should be put on liberally on mating surfaces of the crankshaft, whether it be the mains or connecting rods. Remember, this lube is so the engine will have oil when you are rotating the engine with out oil either during assembly or after.

As to the rope seal? I trust you will take a bearing cap off one at a time, unless your planning to remove the engine completely and invert it on a engine stand. Once the cap is removed, take a screwdriver and push on one end of the seal. The other end should push out on the other side. Then grab with a pair of pliers and pull the rope seal out. If the engine is inverted and off the tractor you will only lift the crank from the block and the seal can be pulled out with a o-ring pick.
 

Getting it out might not be that bad. I also don't have to worry too much about damaging the seal during removal. I only have to worry about not damaging the block.

What about putting the new one in? Pushing rope is usually a sisyphean task.

Is there some kind of trick to pulling the new one through without damaging it?
 
I think the only problem with lead paint was kids eating the paint chips as it starts to peel off. Just don't eat the paint and you should be OK. Also wash up and remove any paint you get on you once yo are finished.
With any paint when sanding you don't want to breath the dust. That's where the real risk is.
Far as gasket sealant, It's main purpose is to help hold the gasket in place. Use good quality gaskets and sealant is not necessary. Makes things a whole lots easier if you have to go back in for some reason.
Good Luck with it.
 
(quoted from post at 15:19:50 06/21/16)
Getting it out might not be that bad. I also don't have to worry too much about damaging the seal during removal. I only have to worry about not damaging the block.

What about putting the new one in? Pushing rope is usually a sisyphean task.

Is there some kind of trick to pulling the new one through without damaging it?
___________________________

To remove the old, grab the end of the old seal where most accessible. Again, pull while rotating the shaft in the direction of your pull.

To install the new seal, fasten a length of wire or fishing line securely to one end of the seal, so that it isn't bulky where you tied on and so that it isn't over 3/8" from the end of the seal. Coat the seal with LUBRIPLATE. Pass the free end of the wire or string up over the crankshaft at the point where the seal will ride when installed. Then, to roll it into position, a slow steady pull on the string while ROTATING the crankshaft in the direction of your pull.
 
It's been a really, really long time since I replaced a rope rear main seal, but there is a tool that kinda reminds ya of the old Chinese finger trap. After the old seal is pushed/pulled out, the tool is fed through the groove, around the crank, and it grips the rope seal. The new seal is then pulled back through.

I found the Lisle 27000 is available on line for around $10.
 


Are you doing a in chassis job... You are going to get different opinions and that what it will add up to a ...opinion...

I don't put much faith in opinions...
 
I just did one on 8N but I had split the tractor and had the engine on the stand. If the 2N is the same there is a rear seal retainer part #91A6335. I loosened the main
bearing caps , slightly, and removed the retainer by using a punch to get it started out of the block. On mine the part of the lips that retain the rope seal were broken
and the groove in the pan was also chipped and had to be repaired. I bought a new retainer and worked it into the block without the rope seal to make sure it fit. I did
not soak the rope in oil but I coated the face of the rope after I got it in the retainer with assembly lube. After it soaked in a little I did this 2 more times, being careful to
not get it on the ends of the rope seal. I then took a small brush and brushed some permatex #2 in the block groove and with the mains still loose I worked it in the
block. and torqued the main bearing caps There is an excellent write up on the other N tractor site engine reassembly, it covers everything you need to know on
reassembling your engine including detailing trimming the rope seals and pan gaskets as well as pan gasket installation (Part 2 Block Assembly) under the How To
Section. It also details how to put a lip seal on the front main instead of a rope seal. It will also tell you where to use gasket cement (goop) and assembly lube. I had to
take mine apart because of a loose oil pick-up tube, I have put about 10 hours on mine with no leaks.
 

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