Hot Starter Solenoid Post

sonicblis

Member
The post on my starter solenoid that's connected to the negative post on my battery gets incredibly hot when I'm trying to start the tractor while it's turning over. Hot enough to melt the insulation if I'm cranking for a while (which I was when troubleshooting some fuel issues). I burned myself on it this morning a bit. Do I have something wired up wrong if this is happening or is this normal. I have my tractor wired up according to this diagram (I believe =]).
Wiring Diagram
 
Heat at a connection is due to a high resistance, generally caused by loose &/or dirty connection.
 
(quoted from post at 10:05:54 06/20/16) Hmm, ok, so just clean up the end of the contact that's connected to the post?
aybe, but it could be cable wires to cable terminal end corrosion?
 
You also just can't crank on these things for forever. Both my 640 and 9N start with just a couple revolutions. I'm not doing anything special so I'm sure you can get your tractor there too. How hot does it get with just a few seconds of cranking? If it's only perceptively warm or maybe not all all, then that tells you you are cranking too long on the starter while you are "diagnosing" your fuel problem.
 
(quoted from post at 12:13:28 06/20/16) You also just can't crank on these things for forever. Both my 640 and 9N start with just a couple revolutions. I'm not doing anything special so I'm sure you can get your tractor there too. How hot does it get with just a few seconds of cranking? If it's only perceptively warm or maybe not all all, then that tells you you are cranking too long on the starter while you are "diagnosing" your fuel problem.

Yea, it gets hot pretty quickly, maybe with four revolutions, but I think I'm missing some flow with corroded connections. I'm going to replace the battery cables going to the body and the solenoid this afternoon to see if that helps.
 

if it's getting hot that quickly, it definitely is not normal. i'm with the check all connections crowd - and i'd start with the place it's getting hot.
 
Probably. It's not always on the outside that needs cleaning. Swollen insulation by the connection can cause excessive resistance and this is under the insulation where you can't see it.
 
Your wiring diagram may need some help but that's not your
problem here. Loose/dirty/corroded connection would be my bet.
Once you solve that you will want the original ballast resistor.
Not the white ceramic block shown on that diagram.

Google "Wiring Diagrams by JMOR" and you'll find what you
need for wiring. [b:481af88bac]Here's[/b:481af88bac] the original style wire wound resistor
that mounts on the back of the dash. Let us know what you find.
 
I replaced my battery wires and the heat is gone. I think my battery might be due for replacement, but it seems the corrosion was the problem. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
 
(quoted from post at 01:01:36 06/21/16) Your wiring diagram may need some help but that's not your
problem here. Loose/dirty/corroded connection would be my bet.
Once you solve that you will want the original ballast resistor.
Not the white ceramic block shown on that diagram.

Google "Wiring Diagrams by JMOR" and you'll find what you
need for wiring. [b:967127d6ec]Here's[/b:967127d6ec] the original style wire wound resistor
that mounts on the back of the dash. Let us know what you find.

What's wrong with the diagram I linked? That's how I'm currently wired up. =
 
(quoted from post at 18:00:26 06/21/16)
(quoted from post at 01:01:36 06/21/16) Your wiring diagram may need some help but that's not your
problem here. Loose/dirty/corroded connection would be my bet.
Once you solve that you will want the original ballast resistor.
Not the white ceramic block shown on that diagram.

Google "Wiring Diagrams by JMOR" and you'll find what you
need for wiring. [b:4bf5f30051]Here's[/b:4bf5f30051] the original style wire wound resistor
that mounts on the back of the dash. Let us know what you find.

What's wrong with the diagram I linked? That's how I'm currently wired up. =
The diagram appears to show a front mount distributor and
a ceramic resistor. If that's what you have you will want the
original wire wound ballast resistor instead of the ceramic one.
Other than that I didn't see anything wrong with it.
 
The diagram appears to show a front mount distributor and a ceramic resistor. If that's what you have you will want the original wire wound ballast resistor instead of the ceramic one. Other than that I didn't see anything wrong with it.

Ah, got it. Great, thanks for the head's up.
 

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