Mowing Woes

Finally got this 2n running with much help from the guys on here and the other N site as well. Just put a new water pump on yesterday, hooked up the finish mower, and lo and behold, it is the best running driving N I have ever used. No smoke, no clutch slipping, NO LEAKS!!!! Very impressed for having bought it sitting in a barn for 5 years. Any way, after mowing a couple acres yesterday and today, I started to realize have the 3 point wasn't working. First thought was a major part broken inside. In the process of unhooking the mower, I realized that one of the lower arm/links ball had come out of the arm, disconnecting it. I hammered it back in, but it needs to be replaced. All that to say, where's a good place to get one of these? Also need the piece that the top link connects to as that's cracked and held together by a pin. I'm lovin' my N!
IMG_20160614_193914_zpsfoad8nlc.jpg
 
Tracto-man ,If the other end is still good,just cut a slot or gap in the bottom side with a hacksaw squeeze it it tight in a vice and weld it up,or have it welded.It will be better than a new foreign made lift arm .
 
As Den said, it can be fixed if you're not worried about looks.
There are also weld-on ends that let you cut the old one off and replace it.

Is this the other part you need? [b:848263f24e]YT Parts[/b:848263f24e]
I'm pretty sure I have one on a parts 9N out here.
But your tractor looks to be an 8N.
At least the rear end looks like it.
Four forward gears and reverse to the left and up?
Both brakes on the right side?
 
I believe that is the top link part I need Sir, thanks.

It has 3 forward speeds and a sherman overdrive. 1 brake pedal on each side. Says 2n on both the axle trumpets but the actually tranny/casing/ whatever it's called
section that the seat is bolted too says HF and numbers on it and I know the seat is off of a fergy. Other then that it apperas to be a pretty original 2n.
 
It's the center section of your rear axle that was throwing me off.
It looks to be 8N because of the side supports and long pin. It would
have holes drilled/tapped in the bottom for a swinging drawbar. Bonus!
Here's a picture of a (ugly) 9N/2N center section and upper link.
Notice no side supports for that long pin.
If someone put an 8N center in yours that would be a good
improvement as you could mount a real drawbar easily.
Now that you mention it though, the trumpets do not look like 8N.

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(quoted from post at 23:40:27 06/14/16) It's the center section of your rear axle that was throwing me off.
It looks to be 8N because of the side supports and long pin. It would
have holes drilled/tapped in the bottom for a swinging drawbar. Bonus!
Here's a picture of a (ugly) 9N/2N center section and upper link.
Notice no side supports for that long pin.
If someone put an 8N center in yours that would be a good
improvement as you could mount a real drawbar easily.
Now that you mention it though, the trumpets do not look like 8N.

36901.jpg

Ditto....
.
It is an 8N housing with 9n/2N trumpets....
 
I would only let a certified welder repair that old lower arm, however I would replace it with a new one!
Just my two cents

As the other end of the lift arm may also be worn,

My friend was bush hogging, arm end broke out letting the tool swing around and it started crawling up the rear tire, blade shredded the rear tire, bent the pto shaft, torn up the fenders, as the old hog was climbing up the tire after him,

All this happened in a split second, he heard the noise stopped the tractor, scared the (}{~<,.^) out of him, he got new lift arms after he got the tractor Back together and his pants cleaned out
all this because of a worn-out broken lower lift arm end ball,

I would replace the arm and check the other arm, both may need changing out, especially if you let kids drive this tractor

You cannot believe how fast you can get hurt on one of these old tractors,

SAFETY FIRST!!!!!!!
 
It needs repaired or replaced for sure . On some of my arms that have loose ends I use a large washer before the but to act as a safety , same with the lynch pins on the mower . If and end could pop off the washer won't give it anywhere to go . The washers do rattle but once you get use to what noises are normal you can usually hear a problem when the sound changes .
 
(quoted from post at 08:46:03 06/15/16) I would cut the end off and weld on a new replacement end. You do not need a certified welder.

Complete lift Arms are $60 at tractor supply , Two ends are $32 . Cutting a slice and closing the gap is the cheapest option , your call . You need a good welder but he doesn't need to be curcumsized .
 
I do know a very good welder, that's been doing so for 40 plus years. I'm thinking I'll probably go with welding a new end on. Thanks for all your help guys!
 
(quoted from post at 10:19:43 06/15/16) I do know a very good welder, that's been doing so for 40 plus years. I'm thinking I'll probably go with welding a new end on. Thanks for all your help guys!

I have been welding for 30 years and run my own shop since 1999 . I would ask your buddy which way he feels would be the best . Personally I would slice it a weld the gap in under two minutes , his professional opinion may be different . I usually do small stuff for free for my neighbors IF they make it easy on me , sometime they try to help and it turns into five times the work then I have to charge for an hours labor .
 

Yesterday I was going to suggest a big washer but thought I'd better not.

I wrote to put the big washer (bigger than the lift arm hole) between the small washer and the nut, so that the small washer still bears against the ball itself.

T
 
Maxwell,

You wrote:
[color=darkblue:facc096448]My friend was bush hogging, arm end broke out letting the tool swing around and it started crawling up the rear tire, blade shredded the rear tire, bent the pto shaft, torn up the fenders, as the old hog was climbing up the tire after him,[/color:facc096448]

Scary prospect!

Might be a stupid question but could that scenario still happen if a lower link arm came loose but I had my solid sway bars connected -- which I always have? Maybe yes, because the hydraulics keeping the mower down would be lost on the broken side. (?)

Thanks,
T
 
I assume he did not have stabilizer bars on the machine,

I only use one stabilizer bar with my rotary cutter, so if the other lower arm broke loose it could still crawl up the tire,
 

wow. scary is an understatement.

i didn't realize those bars were a safety feature too. i was already happy to have made a set, now i'm happier :)
 
My friend was bush hogging, arm end broke out letting the tool swing around and it started crawling up the rear tire, blade shredded the rear tire, bent the pto shaft, torn up the fenders, as the old hog was climbing up the tire after him,

This happens with non-three point equipment as well.
My very first job off the home farm was working on a fruit and vegetable farm.
One of the jobs I did there was to pull what we call a "drag" behind an Allis WD.
I've also heard them called a "sliding spring tooth harrow".
Picture borrowed from the internet below.

Chains or cables hooked to the drag and the other end to a
ring that was then fastened to the drawbar with a clevis.
The owner constantly reminded me not to turn too short or a
chain/cable would catch the rear tire and the whole thing would
come up over the tire and seat before I had time to react.

Sadly, about 20 years later that's exactly what killed him.
He was in his late 70's or early 80's so maybe he got complacent.
That was a long time ago and I still remember the lessons well taught.

36928.jpg
 
tracto,
I did not mention it before, but since we are on safety kick here,

my friend has also had one rotary cutter blade come off while cutting, it when out the side about 40 ft,
did not really hurt anything, but gave him and the cutter some rumble time.

he had one other incident with the cutter, the large nut that holds the stump jumper to the gearbox came off, when the blades were spinning, fortunately both blades and stump jumper fell straight to the ground and spun to a stop, he was on a wooded roadway in the woods, so he was not running at high rpm, just transporting from one field to another

he has started checking the bolts to be sure they are tight and check keys are in place and of good repair, each time he fuels the tractor.

do not know really why he has had so many issues, but he is a bit hard on the equipment sometimes.

all of us need to check the bolts on the stump jumper and blade bolts each time we fuel, or at the first of the day, I guess the cotter key came out, no other way for the nut to come off,
but if you drag the cutter across logs stumps rocks etc enough times, I guess it could wear off or tear off the check key.

a rotary cutter and chainsaw are about two of the most dangerous tools that most weekend or Saturday farmers use.
 
You got me wondering. So I went out and took some pics. Could it be the Fergy rear looks like a 8n? Or does the 8n have the letters HF on it? Does have wholes on the
bottom I believe like for the swinging draw bar. Already has some epic home made draw bar that came on it! ;)
IMG_20160615_130117_zpsect03q5x.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:59:59 06/14/16) Finally got this 2n running with much help from the guys on here and the other N site as well. Just put a new water pump on yesterday, hooked up the finish mower, and lo and behold, it is the best running driving N I have ever used. No smoke, no clutch slipping, NO LEAKS!!!! Very impressed for having bought it sitting in a barn for 5 years. Any way, after mowing a couple acres yesterday and today, I started to realize have the 3 point wasn't working. First thought was a major part broken inside. In the process of unhooking the mower, I realized that one of the lower arm/links ball had come out of the arm, disconnecting it. I hammered it back in, but it needs to be replaced. All that to say, where's a good place to get one of these? Also need the piece that the top link connects to as that's cracked and held together by a pin. I'm lovin' my N!

I like that height limit chain setup on your mower. Homemade or does that mower come with those slots?
So, did the limit chains alone save you when the liftarm came off? Or did you have sway bars on too?
Just wondering, as usually when a lift arm breaks/comes off or the lynch pin falls out......lotsa damage and pretzel'd parts, very quickly.
 
I believe it was those chains. They were set up on the mower and tractor when I bought them. I have kinda wondered why though since this seems to have position control?
I noticed one chain was real tight and the mower was dragging to one side. Mowed probably almost an acre and then went to lift it to cross the road and only one side
came up. Sounds like I got lucky!
 
The TO-20 is similar. Here's a pic of the last one I worked on.
Sorry about the poor quality. I had to snip it out of a video.
I don't recall any of my 8N's having that HF on them.
But then I don't recall it being on the TO either.

36944.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 20:53:09 06/15/16) You got me wondering. So I went out and took some pics. Could it be the Fergy rear looks like a 8n? Or does the 8n have the letters HF on it? Does have wholes on the
bottom I believe like for the swinging draw bar. Already has some epic home made draw bar that came on it! ;)
IMG_20160615_130117_zpsect03q5x.jpg

TO 4024 is found on to20 tractors.
 
Tracto-man,

I think that those adjustable chains are to keep the front of the mower at the height you want. Even though having position control many hydraulic systems have slow leak down under heavy implements . . . like mine does.

What I'm wondering is if your tractor has the short check chains running from the bracket surrounding the PTO, to the lower lift arms where the hydraulic arms connect. (?)

If one had only those short check chains and the lift arm became disconnected at the differential, then the purpose of the short check chain connected to it would be lost and the mower could move to that side of the tractor.

If there had been solid sway bars connected to the fender mounts the mower would have a hard time drifting sideways, because of [b:dedccdfef5]both[/b:dedccdfef5] sway bars cause each bar works in two directions whereas the short check chains only work in one direction; i.e., the left check chain keeps the implement from drifting left only.

I guess that's why I should be calling them "stabilizers" rather than just "sway bars". :)

If I force my left lower link arm outward, the solid bar also binds against the angle bracket it is connected to.

Who knows what would happen if my lower arm came loose at the differential housing pin , cause my stabilizer bars are connected to the lift arm rather than directly to the implement pin.:)

36947.jpg
 
I do believe they were height adjustment chains, but I just drop it down as low as it goes and mow away. I have a unusual problem. Instead of it drifting down, the
handle kinda springs up every once in a while and all of the sudden the mower will raise slowly. I do have the check chains as well but have them as loose as possible.
 

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