!952 Ford 8N Overheating

jts03

New User
Having issues since day 1, my 8N still overheating. Back story, Replaced head gasket, water pump,
fan belt, thermostat, radiator, and all fluids. still getting to hot. have double checked the
position of the thermostat. would be nice to be able to run it for more then 10-15 minutes. thanks
guys.
 
I have filled the radiator with the appropriate level of coolant multiple times, it is blowing it out the overflow tube and producing a good amount of steam as well. it is running hot.
 
Is the thermostat installed in the correct orientation?

How full are you filling the radiator?

Dean
 
The only time one of mine ran hot, the fan belt was loose. Correct fluid level is only just above the radiator core. should hold 3 gallons without being too full. Have you flushed out the block?
 
Jts03,Like R Geiger mentioned,it might be time for a good block flush out.I have seen them over 1/2-3/4 full of rust,stop leak,crud,mud solids around the sleeves that caused engine over heating just as you describe.I have flushed some that not one drop of coolant would come out with the drain removed from the block. Had to dig with a welding rod and wire to get any thing to drain out.Make up a 1/4"NPT adapter to garden hose end I made one up with a 1/4" ball valve so it can be turned off and on.Remove both radiator hoses at the engine to keep the crud out of the radiator.Back flush through the block drain first till clear,then stick hose with a rag around it for a tight fit in the head and flush till clear out the block drain,switching back and fourth till water runs clear,digging with wire in the block drain.You could also replace block drain after flush and replace hoses and dump a gallon or two of cheap vinegar in the radiator for a soak over night then re flush.
 
Sometimes, I believe it will take hot tanking the block. Son has 8N that has had all the following: timing verified more than once, two different carbs that preform fine on other 8Ns, radiator rodded, new water pump, shroud installed, with & without thermostat, new fan belt, flushed & back flushed, gallons & gallons of vinegar treatment (at least 4 to 5 different occasions spread out in time), 'wired' through block drain, air pressure to each cylinder when on TDC-comp & no sign of bubbles in radiator, no bubbles when running, radiator will flow full on garden hose continuously, new anti-freeze always dirty/rust when drained. Kind of boils down to too much hard sediment/rust stuck in block. When somebody has it all figured, let me know. P.S. all this has made improvement, but not fixed. Yes it does have temperature gauge, cross checked with meat thermometer in radiator & IR unit. Pump impellers are correct direction. 4 PSI radiator cap. He bought it sitting dry for X-years.
 
What is your definition of "the appropriate level of coolant."

Again, how do yo9u know that it is overheating?

Dean
 

Not all hot tanks are the operator/owner are the same :cry:

I prefer a oven cleaner :D

Sounds like you have a Doozy :cry:

To the poster there is NO silver bullet you have to confirm the basics...
 

Not all hot tanks are the operator/owner are the same :cry:

I prefer a oven cleaner :D

Sounds like you have a Doozy :cry:

To the poster there is NO silver bullet you have to confirm the basics...[/quote]ep, we have been beating on this b!#¢h for years! But, we will beat her if not die first!
 
Does sound like your water ducts in the block are packed with sediment. Try the flushing and vinegar as recommended. Next step would be to remove your freeze plugs for a lookie.
If packed you can use a rod to loosen the crud from there and use a pressure washer. Then flush and reflush, then replace the plugs.
 
(quoted from post at 23:29:34 06/03/16) Does sound like your water ducts in the block are packed with sediment. Try the flushing and vinegar as recommended. Next step would be to remove your freeze plugs for a lookie.
If packed you can use a rod to loosen the crud from there and use a pressure washer. Then flush and reflush, then replace the plugs.
o idea who you are replying to since you did not say, but, if me then BTDT several times & agree that freeze plugs are next & have already bought them.........now work up the motivation. :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 22:46:46 06/03/16)
(quoted from post at 23:29:34 06/03/16) Does sound like your water ducts in the block are packed with sediment. Try the flushing and vinegar as recommended. Next step would be to remove your freeze plugs for a lookie.
If packed you can use a rod to loosen the crud from there and use a pressure washer. Then flush and reflush, then replace the plugs.
o idea who you are replying to since you did not say, but, if me then BTDT several times & agree that freeze plugs are next & have already bought them.........now work up the motivation. :wink:

Years ago the "Blind Head bolt hole" issue went around the block a few times . I have 6 blocks in the shop and found no blind holes but did find a bunch that had plugged up from mineral deposits ?

Some of the rear water passages from the block to head had also plugged up and the heat from the exhaust turned it to stone . I used a drill and removed it as a fine grey powder .

I would guess that if enough of the water passages around the #3 & #4 cylinders were blocked off or severely restricted it would cause overheating even if the rest of the system was perfect .
 
(quoted from post at 07:02:54 06/04/16)
(quoted from post at 22:46:46 06/03/16)
(quoted from post at 23:29:34 06/03/16) Does sound like your water ducts in the block are packed with sediment. Try the flushing and vinegar as recommended. Next step would be to remove your freeze plugs for a lookie.
If packed you can use a rod to loosen the crud from there and use a pressure washer. Then flush and reflush, then replace the plugs.
o idea who you are replying to since you did not say, but, if me then BTDT several times & agree that freeze plugs are next & have already bought them.........now work up the motivation. :wink:

Years ago the "Blind Head bolt hole" issue went around the block a few times . I have 6 blocks in the shop and found no blind holes but did find a bunch that had plugged up from mineral deposits ?

Some of the rear water passages from the block to head had also plugged up and the heat from the exhaust turned it to stone . I used a drill and removed it as a fine grey powder .

I would guess that if enough of the water passages around the #3 & #4 cylinders were blocked off or severely restricted it would cause overheating even if the rest of the system was perfect .
'm afraid that may be the case on this one & vinegar ain't a drill! :cry:
 

I am going to flush the block and check timing on my carb. hopefully that is the issue. it is worth I shot.
 
10-15 minutes sure is quick. Have you used a non contact thermometer on the radiator and/or thermometer in the coolant to determine temperature? We used to feel the radiator core for cool spots, now we need to use non contact thermometers.
 
(quoted from post at 07:12:30 06/05/16) 10-15 minutes sure is quick. Have you used a non contact thermometer on the radiator and/or thermometer in the coolant to determine temperature? We used to feel the radiator core for cool spots, now we need to use non contact thermometers.
es, 10 minutes sounds so fast as to suggest no circulation. Takes a bit of hose work, but I have removed thermostat, connected hose to head, plugged upper rad connection, filled with water, started at speed and if pump working and block/head not restricting flow, it will dump the entire 3gallons in about 12 seconds. At that point I know that I have flow and have eliminated several possibilities rather quickly.
 
I have an 800 with similar behavior. Acts like it is overheating after 15 minutes running but temperature is 140-160. oil pressure 50. I did all the things in original post. New radiator, water pump and took out the thermostat. As some have said may not be cooling system but could be that it is losing spark. Have you solved the problem on your 8N. and does anyone think it might not be the cooling system?
 
What does "act like" mean when it is only 140-160F???:

"Acts like it is overheating after 15 minutes running but temperature is 140-160."
 
(quoted from post at 09:01:10 06/07/16) What does "act like" mean when it is only 140-160F???:

"Acts like it is overheating after 15 minutes running but temperature is 140-160."

Putt putt bang. Silence. OK just kidding. I went to all the trouble of new cooling system because it ran hot and would sputter and quit from heat but that was after hours of running. As the original poster said after 15 minutes his is apparently overheating. After 15 minutes mine quits also. I just pointed out that the temperature gauge says 160 and could we have another problem altogether. Perhaps part of the block is clogged and partially overheating as some seem to indicate. I have heard that spark can also be lost when the tractor warms up due to coil/points problems. Any thoughts?
 
(quoted from post at 11:59:35 06/04/16)
I am going to flush the block and check timing on my carb. hopefully that is the issue. it is worth I shot.

Not sure what you mean by timing on my carb, but I definitely would check ignition timing. Late, or Retarded timing will cause overheating in very short order.
 
Doesn't sound like over heating. The copper winding in the coil heats up & resistance increases, resulting in approximately only 60% spark energy compared to room temperature. Normally that works out just fine, but if anything in ignition system is marginal, then it may fall below the "runs fine" threshold when warm. Check spark within one minute of shut down. Check flow from carb fuel drain within one minute of shutdown.
 
(quoted from post at 09:44:07 06/07/16) Doesn't sound like over heating. The copper winding in the coil heats up & resistance increases, resulting in approximately only 60% spark energy compared to room temperature. Normally that works out just fine, but if anything in ignition system is marginal, then it may fall below the "runs fine" threshold when warm. Check spark within one minute of shut down. Check flow from carb fuel drain within one minute of shutdown.
Thanks for the input. I am going to try new coil and check points etc this weekend. These types of mechanical problems can make an amateur mechanic crazy. Maybe crazy to do anything yourself but we are all not rich are we.
 
(quoted from post at 14:23:25 06/08/16)
(quoted from post at 09:44:07 06/07/16) Doesn't sound like over heating. The copper winding in the coil heats up & resistance increases, resulting in approximately only 60% spark energy compared to room temperature. Normally that works out just fine, but if anything in ignition system is marginal, then it may fall below the "runs fine" threshold when warm. Check spark within one minute of shut down. Check flow from carb fuel drain within one minute of shutdown.
Thanks for the input. I am going to try new coil and check points etc this weekend. These types of mechanical problems can make an amateur mechanic crazy. Maybe crazy to do anything yourself but we are all not rich are we.
ow true! And on top of cost, who can you trust to do it right besides yourself? For me, that comes down to me or my son. OK, maybe if Hobo was handy. :)
 

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