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Voltage drop test

Hobo,NC

Hobo,NC

Well-known Member
Location
Sanford, NC
No crank first pix one lead on battery post other on cable end (lead cable end to battery post) Ignition switch on headlights on ( By myself did not want to go to the trouble of wiring up a remote are use the min/max function on the meter...

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Good no voltage drop. 0.000 volts

Second pix one lead still on bat post the other on cable to battery terminal.

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There's your voltage drop because of a bad connection... 7.52 volts if I had hit the starter the voltage drop would have been battery voltage of 12.62 in this case...

Once you see how this works you will luv it and quit chasing your tail rubbing and shinning things till you get lucky,,, in some cases luck will not be good enoufh even when you have every thing clean bright and tight...
 
I posted that process a number of years back... it's like water off a ducks back... half the folks just run to the computer and say IT WON'T START, WHAT DID I *DO*!!

Basic Electrical 101!!
 

And the other haft say take it apart shine on it and put it back together you may get lucky... I read about this sometime in the early to mid 90's it took me awhile to get a handle on it mainly because I did not apply a load and thought it was some kind of witch magic...
 
Never thought of using a VOM that way to test electrical connections but it makes perfect sense. Voltage is simply a difference in electrical potential and there will be a difference between two sides of a bad connection.

Will definitely add this to my bag of tricks. Thanks for the tip.
 
"Bright and tight" connections are always a good idea, but not the whole story. Basic voltage drop tests are fine in some situations, but voltage drop tests on a loaded circuit can be very telling. I use a headlight on some circuits. What looks ok may be a problem. I've seen wires look decent enough, but fail a voltage drop test. I've had customers say "It looked ok" when it was bad. A trained eye (yours) can sometimes see the failed spot.
 
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