8n wont start

mikeo1957

New User
hi i got my 8n about a month ago it started right up, got her stuck in the mud the other day was rock and rolling back and forth and gunning it, it stalled and now wont start, its getting fuel ???
 
Mike.........from yer description, I'd makka WAG (wild A$$ guess) ya FLOODED yer sparkies. Do I haffta tell ya to replace yer sparkies??? Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Dont throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry them one-atta-time in HOT runnin' engine sand save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a NEXT time) HTH, Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
(quoted from post at 20:13:26 05/13/16) Mike.........from yer description, I'd makka WAG (wild A$$ guess) ya FLOODED yer sparkies. Do I haffta tell ya to replace yer sparkies??? Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Dont throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry them one-atta-time in HOT runnin' engine sand save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a NEXT time) HTH, Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

this confuses me. i've flooded my engine several times, and i've never had to replace my spark plugs. i've simply let the tractor sit for a while, and then it starts.
 
(quoted from post at 12:49:36 05/14/16)
(quoted from post at 20:13:26 05/13/16) Mike.........from yer description, I'd makka WAG (wild A$$ guess) ya FLOODED yer sparkies. Do I haffta tell ya to replace yer sparkies??? Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Dont throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry them one-atta-time in HOT runnin' engine sand save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a NEXT time) HTH, Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

this confuses me. i've flooded my engine several times, and i've never had to replace my spark plugs. i've simply let the tractor sit for a while, and then it starts.

Same with me.
 
(quoted from post at 20:46:28 05/14/16) all i did to day was knocked on the carb and she ran fine all day is it poss. the float was stuck

yes, very possible.
 
Can you guys help me too? I have 8n also she hasnt run since last fall got a new battery, had the dist. gone thru $100 by a guy thats been doing fords for 50+ years, I now have spark, I replaced the sediment bowl and have good fuel flow at the carb she will start occasionally and run for a couple minutes usually long enough to get anti-freeze hot enough not to stick finger in it, then shuts down and wont start CRANK, CRANK,and crank some more and still nothing its about an early '48 front mount dist, 12 volt, new plugs, new wires, new battery, starter rebuilt last year, radiator rebuilt last year and new head gasket last year, stumped
 
(quoted from post at 11:59:23 05/22/16) Can you guys help me too? I have 8n also she hasnt run since last fall got a new battery, had the dist. gone thru $100 by a guy thats been doing fords for 50+ years, I now have spark, I replaced the sediment bowl and have good fuel flow at the carb she will start occasionally and run for a couple minutes usually long enough to get anti-freeze hot enough not to stick finger in it, then shuts down and wont start CRANK, CRANK,and crank some more and still nothing its about an early '48 front mount dist, 12 volt, new plugs, new wires, new battery, starter rebuilt last year, radiator rebuilt last year and new head gasket last year, stumped
lso was wondering i cleaned my air cleaner and changed the oil in the air cleaner, so am I sposed to fill the outer and inner bowl with oil or just either one?
 
" Can you guys help me too?"

You will get a lot more help if you start your own thread rather than hijack another thread from someone else.

Look at the top of the page & click on " post a message".

That being said......

It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & fuel/air in the right mixture. For the moment, forget about compression & concentrate on narrowing the problem down to spark or fuel.

There are three very important tools you always need to have in your N tool box: a 3 inch piece of wire w/ alligator clips on each end, a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap (* see below) and a 7/16 box end wrench. (see tip # 50 at the link below) And, you really do need a working ammeter on the tractor; it is a very important diagnostic tool. With these tools, you can quickly narrow down most N problems to spark or fuel.

Next time it stops, check quickly for fuel (** see below) then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two. First, check for fuel. Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it?s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it?s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it?s not a fuel problem. So, next, turn the key on, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the needle doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it move back & forth slightly? Next, hook up your spark checker, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 1/4? gap, you probably don?t have a spark problem. If it won?t jump the ?? gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter needle shows a constant discharge, or doesn?t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem. If it doesn?t have spark after you jump the ignition switch, post back for more info on further troubleshooting. (and do not forget to turn the ignition switch off; see tip # 38)

If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn?t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don?t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don?t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don?t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)

There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That?s why removing the 7/16? bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to check for fuel. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ?? in the open air. Remember, it?s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air creates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running. A store bought plug checker (in the picture) will work better than an old plug because it won?t shock the snot out of you like an old plug might!

Post back with results or more questions.



*If you don?t own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap, buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least ?? will work. Ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.

** On most gas engines, you would check for spark first. But, the N gas tank has a pin-hole size vent that easily clogs, causing vacuum lock. By the time you check for spark on a hot engine, the vacuum lock will dissipate w/ the engine off
75 Tips
 
If you look carefully, you'll see that there is a hole between the inner & outer bowl.

Don't forget to replace the gasket while you have it off.
garden2011007.jpg

75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 15:34:06 05/22/16) If you look carefully, you'll see that there is a hole between the inner & outer bowl.

Don't forget to replace the gasket while you have it off.
garden2011007.jpg

75 Tips
apologize for the hi jacking as I did not know it was inappropriate to do so, wont do that again, I checked fuel flow and it filled my 2lb peanut jar as quikly as a 1/4" line could and changed my plugs they were gapped at .35 changed to .28 starts up and runs but overheats, I think I need a water pump after last winters episode,but the good thing is it she runs again, Thank You
 

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