Leaky water pump after replacement

Tractoman

Member
I just replaced my water pump and radiator hoses with a new
t-stat. Everything was great until I tested it out and saw a small leak beginning to pool water on top where it meets the block on the little ledge there. Took it all apart and the gasket between the block and plate is trashed so I gotta get another gasket. I did not use sealant on this surface, only a smear on the pump to plate and plate to gasket surfaces. Any tips on how to do this correctly. Much easier removal the 2nd time. I am out another week until this is fixed and I can find a gasket.
 
I didn't use anything other than the gasket when I replaced mine on my 2n but I don't know what is recommended. Mine has held up fine for a year.

Surface clean of old gasket and dirt?
 
cooling system?...70 year old cast iron surfaces?.....yeah, I'll use just a tint of sealer with the gasket. every side.
I hate doing stuff twice.
 
Tractoman.......the flathead cylinder head is known to WARP. Have it "milled" at a engine rebuild shop to make it FLAT again. Then I'd spray paint the head gasket with aluminum spray paint and install WET. Start installing the 21 head bolts in the center of the head and spiral out in a circular pattern as shown in the I&T FO-4. Torque to 20-ft/lbs; then 40-ft/lbs; and finally 60-ft/lbs. Run yer engine fer about 1/2-hr and then re-torque while warm to 60-ft/lbs. Simple, eh? ........HTH, the amazed Dell
 
(quoted from post at 23:31:07 05/21/16) Tractoman.......the flathead cylinder head is known to WARP. Have it "milled" at a engine rebuild shop to make it FLAT again. Then I'd spray paint the head gasket with aluminum spray paint and install WET. Start installing the 21 head bolts in the center of the head and spiral out in a circular pattern as shown in the I&T FO-4. Torque to 20-ft/lbs; then 40-ft/lbs; and finally 60-ft/lbs. Run yer engine fer about 1/2-hr and then re-torque while warm to 60-ft/lbs. Simple, eh? ........HTH, the amazed Dell
Thank you Dell but this is only the water pump I'm working on, not the head.
 
Tractoman, I cannot speak for anyone, but Dell may be suggesting the leak could be at the head and not the pump. Before you pull it down it's not a bad idea to put a slight pressure on the system and see, not just the coolant leak, but where the coolant is leaking. Hope this helps. Gerard
 
Tractoman,

What Den said.

Whenever I remove any part, like a water pump, I very carefully razor knife my way as I remove it, not so as to reuse that gasket but so that i have a perfect pattern for drawing out a new one on gasket paper.

If your gasket it too trashed for use as a pattern. Lay the new piece of gasket paper on your pump mating face and then gingerly use a very small ball peen hammer where the holes are. This will mark all the circles etc., that you have to cut out.

On a water pump I use old black Permatex #2 carefully spread with a screwdriver and I taper the layer applied so that it is super thin at the inner edges but thicker (if desired) to the outer extremities. That way whatever excess you applied squeezes outward and very little squeezes inward toward engine fluids and moving parts.
 

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