Connecting implements

rickfaulks

New User
It seems to be fairly difficult to get the arms lined up just perfect to connect to mt box blade or bush hog. Is there a secret that you can share to make it easier.
 
(quoted from post at 09:01:34 05/21/16) It seems to be fairly difficult to get the arms lined up just perfect to connect to mt box blade or bush hog. Is there a secret that you can share to make it easier.

I use a 4" thick walled pipe with a 1" O.D.
Very easy to lever the attachments around or to force link arms on of off.

I don't know if it is best but I raise the lift arms and back up until the ball ends can be rested on the tops of the pins.
36166.jpg
 
Hook up the lift arms first. Leave the arms lower than the pins so you can lift them up (there is no down pressure on the arms). Leave the tractor in neutral and hook up one arm. Then go to the other side and line that arm up by rolling the rear wheel by hand and slide it on the other pin. These "N" tractors move freely when in neutral. Then hook up the adjustable top link. This works for me on most of my attachments.
 

Oops!
Not that it matters much but the pipe is 1" INSIDE diameter.

If you stick the pipe under the end of your box blade and lift a little you can easily move the box fore or aft.

You can stab the pipe into the ground under a link arm to lean on it to force the ball on.
 
Rick,Hook up the left side link arm first then move to the right side and if needed use the crank to raise or lower the lift arm,then hook the top link last.You can roll the tractor forward or back to line up the pin or raise 3 point some if needed.
 

The most trouble I ever had was because my lift arms would naturally hang at the wrong spacing apart for my implements.

So I made a lift arm spreader out of PVC. You can measure the distance between the pins on your implement and use this adjustable spreader to spread the lift arms on your tractor at the correct spacing. Of course you take it off once you've got y our tractor and implement in position.

The quick hitches in my other post have a metal one that does the same thing.

FT-liftarmsetter1.jpg

FT-liftarmsetter2.jpg
 

Using this spreader you would back up with your arms spread out the correct width and with the arms under the pins. Then you would remove the spreader and lift the arms up and slide them on the pins.
 
I do not guess there is a secret to hooking up the 3pt hitch.

I keep my tools on flat ground, back up as straight and sq to the tool as possible
I hook up the left side first, then walk around and hook up the right side as it has the adjustment, then top link,

however, as others said, I keep a 8ft 2x4 handy in my tool storage area, many times I have to use it to move the tool forward or reverse to get the proper alignment.

larger tractors have those lower arm quick release coupling, so all you have to do is get within 3 or 4 inch's of the tool pin, unpin this quick release, it allows the ball on the tractor lower arm to move back and forth. a must have as the larger tools are too heavy to be moved back and forth.

guess you could look into buying these quick release ends for your tractor arms, however I think your tools have to be made different to use these quick release hitches.

I have seen a A type hitch, just back up and lift the A hitch, the tool has a matching part of the A hitch, now that is the best and easiest hitch I have seen,
 
Cary,

with my peculiar custom sway bars always on I can still clear the implement itself with my lift arms, so i can rest the balls on the pins before I get off the tractor. I didn't say before, but of course I lower the quadrant all the way before getting off.
Now I don't even have to reach down to pull the lift arm up.

But as you are saying, I still usually have to disconnect my sway bars first to get the spread I need to get onto the pin.

I don't use that type of pin on the sway bar anymore; I use that one underneath for the swingin' drawbar pin.

36178.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 19:04:53 05/21/16) Cary,

with my peculiar custom sway bars always on I can still clear the implement itself with my lift arms, so i can rest the balls on the pins before I get off the tractor. I didn't say before, but of course I lower the quadrant all the way before getting off.
Now I don't even have to reach down to pull the lift arm up.

[b:a44810194f][color=red:a44810194f]But as you are saying, I still usually have to disconnect my sway bars first to get the spread I need to get onto the pin.[/color:a44810194f][/b:a44810194f]

I don't use that type of pin on the sway bar anymore; I use that one underneath for the swingin' drawbar pin.

36178.jpg

That's why I"m hoping I can get these quick hitches to work. Since you just position the hooks below the pins and bring the lift arms up on the pins, there is no spreading out the lift arms to get them over then ends of the pins.

The quick hitches are designed with a bumper that rises about 3.5" above the hooks. If you have the lift arms set to the correct spread for the implement pins you can back up until you hit the bumpers and nudge the implement into place so both pins fit into the hooks on the hitches. Then just raise the lift arms onto the pins.
 

There is a video on Utube that advertises the jubilee. It shows how to connect the lower links without leaving the drivers seat. Then you get off to hook up the top link and put the lynch pins in.
 

Very interesting!
That '53 Jubilee promo video
points out the driver connecting the top link last, from the seat.

. . . obviously because he had dedicated that that top link to that implement :)
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:57 05/21/16)
There is a video on Utube that advertises the jubilee. It shows how to connect the lower links without leaving the drivers seat. Then you get off to hook up the top link and put the lynch pins in.

The quick hitches I'm putting on my 8N do the same thing. You don't have to mess with the lynch pins as they are always left in the implement pins.

Did you check the link that I posted above regarding another thread here on the forum? It has the info on Pat's Quick Hitches.
 
Cary,

For sure, good description of the primary benefit of the quick hitch, once you have it the way you want it.

No more kicking and prying
The lift arms now and then
Now it's top link from the seat time
Well son of an N!

That was you singing by the way.

Great Roger Miller phrase:
"My pappy was a pistol
I'm a son of a gun."

T
 
Just watched the videos . . .

I was going to ask if there shouldn't be an adjustable rod between the arms and I see that there is one.

One thing I would do -- unless there's a good reason not to -- is zip cut the protruding ends off your
long U-bolts after you're locked down.
 

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