Pat's Quick Hitch

Caryc

Well-known Member
http://www.pats3pointhitchsystem.com/

Well, I purchased this system for my 8N and it looks like it would work all right. The problem is that you can't use stabilizer bars with this thing. The pins are too short to get stabilizer bars on them.

I even called before buying and asked him if stabilizers could be used with his quick hitch and he told me "yes" all you have to do is turn the pin around. But that does no good, there is still not enough room to get a stabilizer bar on it. Besides, then the hole for his spreader bar which sets the distance between the quick hitches at the correct distance to meet the pins in the implement for easy hook up are on the wrong side.

If he would have just made a longer pin for this thing there would have been no problem. I'd even have paid for a longer pin as an added part but as is you can't run stabilizer bars with this quick hitch. I'm a little disappointed with it.
 
(quoted from post at 14:47:52 05/16/16) Can you buy longer pins and put them on
yourself?

Check the pic below. It's a 7/8" pin. It needs to have the two holes exactly as they are and the roll pin. What it needs is another 3 or four inches added to the right end of it with a hole for a lynch pin.
DSC03666_zpshr5xea5y.jpg
 

Crap, can't edit posts on here. You see, what disappoints me is that it would have been simple for them to make and supply a longer pin like that for people that wanted to use stabilizer bars but they didn't.
 
(quoted from post at 15:31:08 05/16/16) Good photo but one of it installed would
help too.

Ok, here's the quick hitch part. The lift arm goes into it where you see the rolled up paper and that pin goes through it. A cotter pin goes in the little hole you see on the left side of the pin to keep the pin in there.

If there was another 3 inches or so sticking out of the side of that thing, a stabilizer bar could probably be placed on it.

DSC03667_zpsiivkt0jv.jpg
 
Are we looking at the front or back of the hitch in this photo?
I'm thinking the front - ie, tractor end.
Why does the pin need to be 3" longer?
I've never seen one of these but it seems like 1" longer would suffice.
Couldn't you buy a chunk of 7/8" cold rolled and make a longer pin yourself?
With your gunsmithing skills I would think you could buy some 7/8" cold rolled, drill the holes correctly and install the roll pin in the new, longer pin you made.
All you need is a hand drill and a vise.
If no cold rolled handy you could buy a couple of long 7/8" grade 8 bolts and cut the head and threads off.
I do understand you asked if it would accomodate the sway bars and it doesn't.
I get the frustration.
But to make it work for you it seems like it wouldn't be hard to make new pins.
Maybe I'm not seeing something in the photos?
 
(quoted from post at 18:58:01 05/16/16) Are we looking at the front or back of the hitch in this photo?
I'm thinking the front - ie, tractor end.
Why does the pin need to be 3" longer?
I've never seen one of these but it seems like 1" longer would suffice.
Couldn't you buy a chunk of 7/8" cold rolled and make a longer pin yourself?
With your gunsmithing skills I would think you could buy some 7/8" cold rolled, drill the holes correctly and install the roll pin in the new, longer pin you made.
All you need is a hand drill and a vise.
If no cold rolled handy you could buy a couple of long 7/8" grade 8 bolts and cut the head and threads off.
I do understand you asked if it would accomodate the sway bars and it doesn't.
I get the frustration.
But to make it work for you it seems like it wouldn't be hard to make new pins.
Maybe I'm not seeing something in the photos?

You're looking at the tractor end of the hitch. As I said the roiled up paper in the square hole represents the lift arm. That pin goes through the eye in the lift arm.

I need enough pin sticking out there so I can get a stab. bar and a limiter chain bracket on it with enough room for a lynch pin hole.

I've already ordered the steel round stock from McMasters. I'll just take it to a machine shop I've done business with before and have him drill the holes as needed.
 

it should be his problem (Pat's)

I promoted his hitch it works as stated on my Bota.. Of course I had to learn a few other things that need to be added I can deal with having to buy a longer top link @ $20 its not a big deal... I also learned I could buy a Pat's cheaper from a outside vendor..

Let Pat deal with it, its his problem..
 

I kind of figured on the extra length too so the stab bars would clear the alignment bolts as Hobo talked about. Of course they would have be cut to the smallest length that would work.
 
(quoted from post at 19:32:28 05/16/16)
it should be his problem (Pat's)

I promoted his hitch it works as stated on my Bota.. Of course I had to learn a few other things that need to be added I can deal with having to buy a longer top link @ $20 its not a big deal... I also learned I could buy a Pat's cheaper from a outside vendor..

Let Pat deal with it, its his problem..

Yeah, another bummer for me. Today in the mail I got a Northern Tool Catalog. Pat's cat 1 quick hitch in that is $169.99.

Twenty dollars cheaper than Pat's website price. Crap...I'm going to bed.
 
i tried one of those quick hitches some years ago, [ not this brand] and i finally gave it away, my implements vary in age and apparently design, some may even be homemade,the point is i spent more time trying to get the quick hitch to work, that it took to use the ford factory set up, these are cat 1 implements not super size cat 4, the best and fastest thing i have found for changing out implements is a 4 foot digging bar, back up and pin one side to the tractor, then just scoot the implement with the bar until the lift arm pin lines up
 
Eric,

That's what I've been using all along too . . . a four foot length of galvanized pipe to scoot the attachments around. I use the pipe to pry a stubborn lift arm [b:ede0c2ea31]off[/b:ede0c2ea31] the pins too.
 
(quoted from post at 07:25:14 05/17/16)
Tools%20quick%20attach%20001_zpslsq64d9h.jpg
[/URL][/img]

Stabilizer bars are usually a pita to me . I like the way your bota is set up . I think I will work on some check chains w/a turnbuckle that hooks up the the lift arm before the ball end , then never fight it again .
 

I have became fond of them also... I had to come up with a fast draw bar lock and used one of the holes in the pin supplied by Pat's.

Prior to installing the pat's deal I removed the original sway bars and cut about a 1 1/2 off the tractor end so I could swing the lift arms out enoufh to get the lift arms off my bush hog :twisted:
 

Well, that's it, I'm officially done with Pat's quick hitch. Took my mower off the tractor today and tried them.

They have four aligning bolts (two on each side of the quick hitch). These are visible in Hobo's pics. Well, they are not placed to fit "N" tractor lift arms. The top bolt hits about the middle of the lift arm and the bottom just goes right under it. They are supposed to square up the quick hitch and make it sit right on your lift arm.

Do not buy a set of these things for an "N" tractor. They will not work. I was actually willing to make a new set of pins for it, even got the bar stock from McMaster today but with the alignment bolt fiasco, I'm done with these things. They may work well on other tractors but they just don't work on an "N".

You'd think that someone at Pat's place would know that and advertise that on his website. :evil:
 

I was pull'N fer ya but I also had my doubts about how they would work on a N... I should have installed them on one of my N's for the ell of it...

I have one N that if it would start is ready to work (it has not been started in 3 years) yesterday I needed it turned the gas on and jumped it off it fired right up, ran and plowed just like I if I used it every day (its a side mount :D )

After using bigger tractors for the last 3/4 years I did not have that N feel I use to have, it beat me to death...
 
(quoted from post at 19:27:20 05/17/16)
I was pull'N fer ya but I also had my doubts about how they would work on a N... I should have installed them on one of my N's for the ell of it...

I have one N that if it would start is ready to work (it has not been started in 3 years) yesterday I needed it turned the gas on and jumped it off it fired right up, ran and plowed just like I if I used it every day (its a side mount :D )

After using bigger tractors for the last 3/4 years I did not have that N feel I use to have, it beat me to death...

The only way I could see those hitches working on an "N" was if I welded something like a a half in wide by maybe two inches long spacer to the bottom of the lift arm to make it wider in that spot where the aligning bolts hit.

I didn't want to have to take off my lift arms. With my luck getting the rusted nuts off the lower link pins would probably somehow loosen up the pins and have them start leaking.

It's a good idea and a good product. It just doesn't work on an "N". I emailed them asking if I could return them.
 
(quoted from post at 23:00:11 05/17/16)
(quoted from post at 19:27:20 05/17/16)
I was pull'N fer ya but I also had my doubts about how they would work on a N... I should have installed them on one of my N's for the ell of it...

I have one N that if it would start is ready to work (it has not been started in 3 years) yesterday I needed it turned the gas on and jumped it off it fired right up, ran and plowed just like I if I used it every day (its a side mount :D )

After using bigger tractors for the last 3/4 years I did not have that N feel I use to have, it beat me to death...

The only way I could see those hitches working on an "N" was if I welded something like a a half in wide by maybe two inches long spacer to the bottom of the lift arm to make it wider in that spot where the aligning bolts hit.

I didn't want to have to take off my lift arms. With my luck getting the rusted nuts off the lower link pins would probably somehow loosen up the pins and have them start leaking.

It's a good idea and a good product. It just doesn't work on an "N". I emailed them asking if I could return them.
That was the problem I had with my farm store brand too.
I figured I could slide a plate in along side them when I bolted them on.
Then let the plate put the pressure against the arm.
If you remember, mine didn't slip over the end of the lift arm.
They just bolted to one side of the lift arm.
So that may not work with yours.
I ended up getting rid of them. Quick hitch didn't work as well
for me on tractors that don't have live hydraulics anyways.
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:58 05/17/16)
Well, that's it, I'm officially done with Pat's quick hitch. Took my mower off the tractor today and tried them.

They have four aligning bolts (two on each side of the quick hitch). These are visible in Hobo's pics. Well, they are not placed to fit "N" tractor lift arms. The top bolt hits about the middle of the lift arm and the bottom just goes right under it. They are supposed to square up the quick hitch and make it sit right on your lift arm.

Do not buy a set of these things for an "N" tractor. They will not work. I was actually willing to make a new set of pins for it, even got the bar stock from McMaster today but with the alignment bolt fiasco, I'm done with these things. They may work well on other tractors but they just don't work on an "N".

You'd think that someone at Pat's place would know that and advertise that on his website. :evil:

Sorry they didn't work out for ya.
I have an older set. I have a few questions for owners of the new set like you and Hobo.
Does the new version still come with those different thickness shim blocks? The ones that go in the Pats to adapt to different size liftarms?(vertical orientation)
I ask cuz when I homebrewed a Farmall FastHitch to 3-point contraption :) .......I used the liftarms off a N Ford because I needed skinny little ones to fit into the hitch receivers.
I don't remember any problems getting the Pat's onto those N arms.
just for my info....in case someone local asks for my help with the new ones.
c51397.jpg


tip for Pat's users.
see that U-bolt in the pic? Make a metal bracket to go [i:fecf0b66d5]on top[/i:fecf0b66d5] of the liftarm...flip the u-bolt over...or use bolts instead ..pointing up..with your new bracket.
Then you will be able to swing your blade or rake 360 without whacking the ends of the u-bolt that are sticking down in the pic.
 
(quoted from post at 04:47:32 05/18/16)
shim blocks, YES

Yes, they come with the shim blocks, one thin one and one thick one for each hitch.

Trouble is they don't work either on an "N". But the thick one and the thin one together in there are still not enough to keep the thing up level like it's supposed to be.

I didn't try two thick ones together because that would only leave me with two thin ones for the other side.
 
The saga continues. Got an email from Pat's and the lady said they have longer pins for the "N" tractors that will allow the use of stabilizer bars. She even sent a pic of a "N" with a post hole digger showing stabilizer bars on it.

As for the shims, I found out if I used two of the thick shims, they brought the hitch up level like it's supposed to be. So I asked her to send me two more of the thick shims.

With the two thick shims in there and the "U" bolt tightened up on it, the hitch seemed pretty stable It seems like it will work with just the top two aligning bolts.

So if they send me the longer pins and two more shims I'll give them a try and post the results.
 

Cool I think you will like them once you get it all worked out...
I believe in some cases you will need a longer top link...
Keep us updated and if you can post the pix sent to you...
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:51 05/18/16)
Cool I think you will like them once you get it all worked out...
I believe in some cases you will need a longer top link...
Keep us updated and if you can post the pix sent to you...

I do have two adjustable top links, a long one and a shorter one.

Here is the pic they sent me. It's a png format so I hope it works here.

PatsPic_zpsmojwduog.png
 

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