My Ford Jubilee wont Start

GPaWard3

New User
Went to start my Ford Jubilee and the solinoid just clicked. 12 volt system. Charged the battery to 100%, put it back in. Still nothing just clicks. Thought it was the solinoid so I bought another one. Same thing. Brought another battery out and used jumper cables to hook it up to the other battery. Turned over slow but started. pulled the second battery and it ran for anout 30 seconds and engine stopped. Tried starting it with just the one battery...just clicks. Hooked up the second battery, turned over slow but started. Now when I pulled off the jumper cable the engine stops right away. Took the trctor battery into an auto parts store they checked it and said the battery was fine. Said it might be the altenator. Put battery back in tractor. just clicks. Hooked up second battery, cranked slow but started. Put multimeter on altenator 24 ac volts??

I'm stumpped. any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

First thing I'd be looking at is the battery cables and also make sure you have a good ground. If that isn't it, try bench testing the starter.
 
Try this at your own risk......

You can try to jump it directly to the starter side of the solenoid with your jumper cables to see if it's a bad cable/ground/solenoid or other connection. Make D@MNED SURE the tractor is in neutral first as you will bypass the safety interlock and the start button.

You'll know if it's a bad starter or just a cable/connection.

Again, MAKE SURE TRACTOR IS IN NEUTRAL if you do this. If you don't know how this works, DON'T DO IT.

Check the alternator output also. I would think that the alternator would keep the tractor running without the battery.
 
Do you have a working volt or ammeter in the dash?
Either one may tell you something about what's going on.

If not, what does your multimeter read across the battery terminals?
DC volts, not AC, before starting and while running?

Don't trust your auto parts store for anything electrical.
If the alternator were bad, a Jube will run for weeks on a
fully charged battery without the alternator even hooked up.

Leave the charging system for later.
After the starting system works.
 
As Royce stated, it seems you have two issues. You've done the necessary first step by beginning with a known fully charged battery. Voltage should read 12.6 to 12.7. I would then clean all connections needed by the starter (both positive and negative) until all are "bright and tight". Then use either alligator clamps or a partner to determine if you have voltage (roughly battery voltage) at the starter when cranking. If you do, gently ( like you are putting in finishing nails in trim) tap on the starter several times to see if it will crank. If it does when you tap on it, it may need brushes and the armature cleaned up.
 

I agree with the others on the connections. I had the experience once of having nice clean terminals, but it still cranked slowly. I the happened to notice that a terminal was hot. I removed it again and converted it from clean and gray to shiny and clean. It looked clean but it was really tin oxide in there.
 
make sure you have good clean connections.

next. the good battery out of your truck or car can be a test. it should spin the starter over lickety split.

the battery should have enough juice to run the tractor with no generator or alternator for days. taking the 2nd bat off and it does tells me you have a wiring, battery or really bad alternator problem.

when you tested the alt.. how did you do it.


what does your net reading in dash ammeter show key on, engine not running, and then after start.

measurement across battery when running on volt scale?
 

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