Plow Share Angle of Attack (?)

Tall T

Well-known Member
In adjusting the top link for my single bottom Ford 110, what would be the optimum number of degrees downward angle (or initial mean) for the base line of the share?

Thanks,
Terry
 
I would start out at 25 1/2" and tweek from there. If you have the manual it might tell you.

Kirk
 

Kirk,

Closest I can find is a 110 Middle Buster manual.

The setting you gave me is probably fine for now, given my lack of experience. I'm about to give my neighbors garden a second plowing after my botched first attempt.

Did the driveway on sunday with success. I took down the hard hump in the middle that was scraping the dopey & costly lower cowlings on modern cars. I angled the blade one hole and tilted it to the max using the corner of the blade to break it up.

Thanks,
Terry
35634.jpg
 
I don't think there's a set number or angle.
It would depend on things like type of soil
- clay vs sand, how sharp your share/s are,
whether you're turning sod or previously
plowed land, etc.
Best I can tell you is to experiment till
you get it right.
If you want to make it easy on yourself look
for a remote valve for your Jube.
Then, with a hydraulic top link you can make
fine adjustments with a push or pull of a
handle.
 
We have most of the Ford,Fe4rguosn, and Dearborn tractor and implement manuals on the 'other site' -email me for how to get there as they won't let me post the link here...stupid, since it is all about vintage tractors and helping out people like yourself. the manuals will tel lyou exactly how to set up your plow and how to use it...

Tim Daley(MI)
 
Perhaps the reason this site doesn't allow a link to that site is the continuing animosity towards this place that you see there.
There's a core group there that still bad mouths this place whenever the topic comes up. There's also the disdain shown there about this place selling parts to support itself so it's not as "pure" as that place is.
There's rarely a plug there for YT's parts department. Often it is a tale of woe over something that wasn't right 15 years ago.
I have no way of knowing if Miss Kim reads the threads over there but it's not like she couldn't.
I do like that board too and sometimes wish there could be a peace treaty between them or at least some state of detente.
But I think it will take an attitude check on both sides before it will ever happen.
 
Jerry,

You wrote:
[color=darkblue:7708725f21]I don't think there's a set number or angle.
It would depend on things like type of soil
- clay vs sand, how sharp your share/s are,
whether you're turning sod or previously
plowed land, etc.[/color:7708725f21]

I was wondering about those things actually; like if the tip of the share has a downward bend and how sharp it is. I can see how it would have a harder time especially on new hard ground, pulling itself down.

[color=darkblue:7708725f21]Best I can tell you is to experiment till
you get it right.[/color:7708725f21]

That's what I've been doing since I noticed it not naturally "inclined" to dig in. :)

[color=darkblue:7708725f21]If you want to make it easy on yourself look
for a remote valve for your.
Then, with a hydraulic top link you can make
fine adjustments with a push or pull of a
handle.[/color:7708725f21]

I've had my eye out for one. Just last night I suggested that to a tractor collecting friend who just got himself another Case with PS and a remote. I suggested that a hydr top link would be good. He said it probably would for a dirt scoop and I replied back . . . for a plow especially and a rear blade and for almost everything. From one implement to another or if I park implements on blocks to keep them drier or to let water flow out of my carryall, I'm always manually adjusting the top link to reconnect.

Thanks,
Terry
 
Tim,

You wrote:

[color=darkblue:f09a92f723]We have most of the Ford,Ferguson, and Dearborn tractor and implement manuals on the 'other site' -email me for how to get there as they won't let me post the link here...stupid, since it is all about vintage tractors and helping out people like yourself. the manuals will tel lyou exactly how to set up your plow and how to use it... [/color:f09a92f723]

I went "there" scanned a manual list but as far as anything 110, I only found the 110 Middle Buster, and "110 series". but I probably didn't search properly.

I fail to see the logic of the non-shared links as well. Obviously, since we all know about that site, no YT members are going to jump ship to only be there. Maybe it is just that there has been no handshake agreement with them to share links.

I clicked on your "profile" but PM is disabled so I can't connect to you off-forum.

Thanks,
terry
 
Where I find the hyd top link to be the most
helpful is with the boom pole.
Pick something up to max height with the 3
point and then use the top link and get
another 2-3' above that.
It's great on every thing though.
 
That's amazing . . . 2" to 3' more lift!!

I was working on one of my heavy soil over clay access roads the other day and until I got it more level, I couldn't back down the first steep part because the blade, especially if angled down would bottom out and stop me backing in. So I had to go in front first and turn around, or level up the blade till I was in and readjust it. A hydraulic link would have picked the blade up enough to get me in.

T
 
Terry,
If you go on the other channel you can download the 101 ford plow manual it might be helpful. If Billy from NY sees
this he can shed some light cause he has both the 110 and 101. I only have the 101 plow. Might have to do some
adjusting on the plow depending on the wheel configuration and tire size to get it to plow right

Kirk
 
(quoted from post at 13:13:23 05/03/16) Terry,
If you go on the other channel you can download the 101 ford plow manual it might be helpful. If Billy from NY sees
this he can shed some light cause he has both the 110 and 101. I only have the 101 plow. Might have to do some
adjusting on the plow depending on the wheel configuration and tire size to get it to plow right

Kirk

Kirk,

I'd better go re-read all that Billy already told me (I saved it) and I'll probably understand more now than I did then.

I didn't know that the 101 is similar so I'll check out [b:d82d77ea63]that[/b:d82d77ea63] manual.

Thanks,
Terry
 

I learned to plow by Zane's "Plow A Little Now" You will have to search for it... Try "Google"


PLOW A LITTLE NOW--by Zane
 
I set my 110 up on my 850, and I had taken measurements on each end of the old beat up 2nd hand/ebay sourced ford oem top link. I had gone through making sure the plow was level both ways in the furrow, first with blocking one wheel up on level pavement, then in the actual furrow. At that point the plow worked perfectly, I took some short video on my phone, fun to watch, hard to not rewind it a few times too. Once it was adjusted to my liking I recorded my top link setting for just that reason. I marked it on a clean scrap of 2x4, took a photo of it, forget where that photo is now, but you can do the same thing and its not going to be exactly the same anyways, find the sweet spot and mark it down somehow. The plow has a new rock share and shin, does a very nice job. I like the rock share on it in these soils, its much thicker than the new shares I put on my 101 Ford.
a225638.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 19:39:24 05/03/16) I set my 110 up on my 850, and I had taken measurements on each end of the old beat up 2nd hand/ebay sourced ford oem top link. I had gone through making sure the plow was level both ways in the furrow, first with blocking one wheel up on level pavement, then in the actual furrow. At that point the plow worked perfectly, I took some short video on my phone, fun to watch, hard to not rewind it a few times too. Once it was adjusted to my liking I recorded my top link setting for just that reason. I marked it on a clean scrap of 2x4, took a photo of it, forget where that photo is now, but you can do the same thing and its not going to be exactly the same anyways, find the sweet spot and mark it down somehow. The plow has a new rock share and shin, does a very nice job. I like the rock share on it in these soils, its much thicker than the new shares I put on my 101 Ford.
a225638.jpg

But how did you first come to have the top link right where you marked it?

Cause I'm thinking that making the plow level to the plowing
with the Leveler Box, wouldn't give me the correct attack angle for the share.

It sounds like your top link just happened to be in the right place . . . probably from all experience.

How about measuring your top link for me with the 110 attached. JK :D
 
Block up the rear wheel on the land side, the left one, then level the plow front to back, side to side. Front to back is the top link. Then take it to the field, see how it performs. You may see it needs slight adjustment or is right on. I think where I lucked out is that the center of draft is correct. As adjusted, I've pulled this plow through some glacial till with almost basketball size round rocks and never tripped it, shearing the bolt. It really pulls nicely, I was impressed that I was able to get this plow to perform well, without a lot of experience, just using my head and things I've learned along the way. If this plow has a new share and you have the nose of the plow set to aggressively, it will gouge in and shear bolts. I've run a grade 5 in mine, shearing small tree roots, going slowly, but I am still amazed at the areas I have plowed with a grade 2, its all in the proper adjustment.
a225641.jpg

a225642.jpg

a225643.jpg
 
Billy,

Wait a minute!

You said "level both ways" . . . longitudinally and laterally.

Sounds like no deliberate angling of the share point downward . . . but just a squaring to the shop floor or pavement.

This 80 year old roadway out front is crowned
so my good old shop floor, though far from perfect itself,
will do and I'll mark the top link for a reference point.

The builder of the shop was told not to pour the finish layer of concrete because it was going to get very cold, and it did, so the water in the concrete froze before it had a chance to set.
The floor crumbled away over time -- concrete dust everywhere. So I wire brushed the whole thing with a friends huge twin brush floor machine . . . then painted the whole rough (no more finish coat) floor with turquoise Floor Polyurethane.

It works but it isn't a smooth true surface.

So I should make the cross bar level with the floor
and the share too?

Thank you New York.
Terry
 
How high should I block up the landside wheel?
The depth of a furrow?
The depth you want to plow?

Thanks,
T
 
I have the ford plow book it says "It's length is adjusted to 25" from center to center of ball joints and should not be changed."
 
25" is a good starting point and your tractor may be fine with it but not all tractors should be at that setting. Row crops will also have a different setting that the all purpose tractors. That's why I said you might have to tweak it.

Kirk
 
Hobo,

Great stuff, thanks!
I searched for Zane's plowing book. His last name is Sherman right?

Nothing came up.

The plowing PDF is great too . . . will study it.

The other day I repositioned my Coulter wheel with the post jog in the forward direction cause something didn't seem right by me. This pdf drawing shows I got it right. I also moved the depth gauge wheel as far back as I could so that the Coulter wheel couldn't rub against it if it swung in that direction.

I know that some say the depth wheel isn't necessary and probably so, but I've been figuring it is like a training wheel on a kid's bike, making allowance for my lack of knowhow. :)

I see that there are check chains on the Coulter!! Never seen or heard of that before but it sure makes sense to me as far as safeguarding the sharp and thinner scalloped edges of it.

Thanks much,
Terry
 

Hi John,

Thanks for that top link benchmark!
I'll burn it into my memory.

T
 
Kirk,

My Jube came with two top links (lucky me) an original ford one I think, that I straightened and like the most and the other a "made in England" one. Maybe I'll leave the British one connected to the plow so it will always be set where it seems best.

When I heated and straightened the bent screw (flat part just before the ball) I made the mistake of using a 4' bar that was tapered to a point at the end to bend it as I heated it in my blacksmiths vise.

After getting it perfectly straight to the eye I realized that my prying had put several leverage cracks in the ball collar (oops!). So I gas welded up the cracks with steel and then brazed it all over.
I should have put a big pin through it with a pipe on the pin for bending it straight.

Thanks,
T

35660.jpg
 
Billy,

A propane tractor! Lucky you!!
I'd forgo the "look" of my tractor for propane.

When you set the plow horizontally, did you mark the leveler box adjustment as well. I guess I could just measure the length and write it on the fender. :)

Thanks much,
Terry
 
Hobo,

Very interesting about the share's "plow suck" in that Ferguson PDF.

It's not the sharpness of the share that counts but that with a straight edge along the bottom of it there needs to be a rise or a gap of 1/4" in the middle.

T
 
8" on the land side wheel if its a 16" plow, if I recall this correctly.

8" would be the depth of the furrow.
 
No, I just recorded the top link ends, forget what I used for a reference on each end, but its simple to to do this. Once blocked up, and you level the plow both ways, you'll be able to start, the first furrow may not be perfect or even desirable, because both wheels are on land, or the same plane. The next furrow is where the wheels are in the furrow and you should be close or have the plow level, that's where you make any final adjustments, once done, you are good. The book that was posted will be very helpful as well.
 
The 'other site' allows postings that mention YTMAG...they do not allow any links to them here however. The information should be available so that everyone can benefit from the sharing and exchange. If someone can't get an answer here, why not direct them to a place where they can? This site has sponsors -parts suppliers -some good, some bad. Just saying how it is -one bad experience here is all it took for me. The 'other site' is not sponsored by anyone and is a full not-for-profit operation. Donations are accepted thru merchandise sales and money amounts but are put back into the web site upkeep and such -no one involved makes a dime.

Tim
 
Tim,

I can't figure out what YTMAG means? The YT part I get.

The information should be available so that everyone can benefit from the sharing and exchange. If someone can't get an answer here, why not direct them to a place where they can?

Like the movie, "Miracle on 34th Street", where if one store didn't have what the customer wanted, the clerk would send them to the store that did. :)

The only thing that creeps me out here are the unnamed monitors and the tainted (vengeful) and arbitrary censorship that it entails. As pitiful as that can be, it ends up for me being a disappointing "oh well" cause, I'm here for the good people and mechanical/tractor info so I'll just play the tunnel-visioned, comfort-zoned, tractor head and stick around for a while. :)

On the bright side (dull bright) having been repeatedly silenced, I won't have to saddle the intelligence insulting label of "conspiracy theorist" by people dutifully trained to reject anything and ALL on-record evidence that they haven't seen on lame stream news and that shakes their misguided faith in the world.

Terry
 
(quoted from post at 13:58:59 05/03/16) Where I find the hyd top link to be the most
helpful is with the boom pole.
Pick something up to max height with the 3
point and then use the top link and get
another 2-3' above that.
It's great on every thing though.

I am saving up for one . My mower floats so it can cut even up and over humps . When I pick the mower all of the way up , the tail wheel is only about a foot off of the ground .
If I want to cross the creek , a ditch , or drive through the swampy area , I have to get off and adjust the top link all the way in , cross the creek , get off and readjust .

I think if a man had one he would use it more often . I have not looked to hard into it yet , but the bigger Fords have quick hitch arms that you pull out a few inches to hook up then back up until they click in place or something like that . That would be cool also .
 

I have a hyd top link and side link on my new Bota its nice.. I have the controls for one on my 3000 I have not got around to it yet.. Some Botas have those sliding gizmos on the lift arms mine did not... Those bota lift arms are $800 I put a Pat's quick hitch set up on it I have yet to find anything I don't like about them...
 
Billy and Everyone,

Here's my corrective plowing job of today on the botched job I did on that same patch last fall. I knew it wouldn't be easy or pretty trying to plow over the same plow job where a couple of rows on the right didn't get turned at all before . . .

cause I was going the wrong way.:D

BEFORE:
35680.jpg


TODAY:
35681.jpg


35682.jpg
 

You don't want any downward angle. Just picture if you were using a four bottom and had it angled down. How deep would your fourth one be plowing compared to the front?
 

Showcrop,

Very interesting and logical point!

Here's what happened with yesterday's plowing and my burning questions about what went down.

First I tried to do the Headlands at each end, rolling the sod inward. Well something seemed totally wrong with that process because with the plow already adjusted laterally, using the 8" block under the tire it would barely dig in.

So I'm thinking that maybe someone forgot to tell me, or I missed it, that the plow should be level for doing the Headlands, and that later after the first furrow, I would adjust the plow according to the previously determined marks I should have made, from when I had the landside wheel up on a block.

Next something-not-right problem:
While plowing the first row, the right side wheel was even higher than the left and so I wound up with a super shallow furrow. That bothered me because there was no deep furrow to drop my fat right wheel into for the next pass . . . so that meant that the next pass would leave too shallow a furrow as well . . . and on it went.

I didn't feel I was getting enough penetration until over half way across the plot.

So am I right in assuming that I should have left the plow square (unadjusted) for headlands and first furrow, and only THEN made the lateral and top link adjustments to the plow ?

I probably should have stopped right there after that first shallow furrow, leveled the plow and done it again and then with the right wheel sitting deep, make the adjustment.

Thanks,
Terry
 

Yes you are figuring right... I do all the adjustment while in position mode then flip to draft when I am ready to plow... I have got away from jacking the left wheel on blocks I do it all from the tractor seat on level ground and once I have cut it in adjust with a wheel in a furrow......

Stay with it, it will come to you...
 
Hobo,

Right on, thanks!
By the time I stop learning the hard way I'll be pushing up daisies. :D

Terry
 
I thought there was a standard top link length that was your starting point.The early top links were made from two pieces of flat bar with
bolts through various holes for length adjustment.Each side had a little groove cut in it and when the grooves lined up that was your
starting point.Or am I mistaken?
 
RD,

You're probably right that such top link bars existed but I haven't seen or heard of them till now.

What I will do in the future is use my extra screw type top link.
I'll adjust the plow share parallel to the ground with that other top link and then leave it attached to the plow.

Also I will try the blocking up 8" and adjusting method again but next time I will mark the leveler box screw where the plow is laterally level.

Then I'll take the tractor down off the block and level it to the ground. Then I'll go plow the headlands and my first furrow.

Finally, I'll drop the right tire into my first furrow and return the plow to my previously set blocked up mark on the leveler box arm and carry on plowing.

Thanks,
Terry
35774.jpg

My collection of 3 point parts
35776.jpg
 

Now that you have a ID You should be able to lust look at the bottom of the share in relationship to the ground, then from the tractor seat adjust and rock and roll...
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top