Ford 950 (900) 12 Volt Conversion

RedBarnNate · May 2, 2016

Hello!

I'm not sure if this is in the right section, but I want to convert my dad's Ford 950 Row Crop tractor to 12 volt. Here are some current pictures of the tractor charging components.

1. I want to do this job RIGHT.
2. I want to do this job SAFELY.
3. I want to get a complete list of correct parts to use and a diagram before ordering ANYTHING.

Can someone be of assistance? Willing to learn.

markct · May 2, 2016

Go on eBay a seller that goes by
rareelectric has a kit complete with
brackets, alternator, belt, wiring and
ballast resistor for under 100 bucks
with shipping. Easiest way to do it, I
have bought 2 kits so far. At that price
not worth my time to find the pieces and
make brackets

souNdguy · May 2, 2016

Howdy.

Thanks for posting pics, though, none were needed.

Converting a 53+ to 12v is a closed book. Easy. You can either get the actual tisco brackets, or you can work with your gen bracket and a universal bracket from the parts store and hang an alternator on pretty quick.

your start solenoid is fine and does not need to be changed.

if you get a more expensive and less desireable 1 wire alternator then all you will be doing is removing the voltage regulator and then connecting the charge wire from the alternator to the battery wire that had been on the vreg.. the rest is bolts, and belts, plus getting a napa ic14sb ignition coil and swapping in, change out headlamps.

If you get the cheaper, 3 wire, then you have 2 more small tasks.

make up a short jumper and jump from the charge stud on the alt to the #2 blade terminal on your common delco 10/12-SI alternator.

Next, hook a wire tot he #1 blade terminal on the alternator and run it thru a 194 type lamp then to the same terminal on your 2 wire key switch that feeds the coil. key on = lamp on, after starting and getting over 400 rpm, lamp should go off and ammeter should show charge. classic idiot lamp.

you can use the old field wire or armature wire leftover in the harness from removing the genny and the vreg to do this extra wire run.

Lastly, since you are concerned about safety.. Picture 3 shows a rubber fuel line and metal fuel filter practically setting on the exhaust manifold.... you need to re-engineer that

souNdguy · May 2, 2016

Ouch.

15$ coil, napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

40$ alternator napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

10$ universal accessory adjustment slotted bracket napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

12$ belt napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

77$ and all the parts are local and take about 20 minutes to install.

You can literally convert your tractor at lunch...

RedBarnNate · May 2, 2016

(quoted from post at 08:57:32 05/02/16) Howdy.

your start solenoid is fine and does not need to be changed.

if you get a more expensive and less desireable 1 wire alternator then all you will be doing is removing the voltage regulator and then connecting the charge wire from the alternator to the battery wire that had been on the vreg.. the rest is bolts, and belts, plus getting a napa ic14sb ignition coil and swapping in, change out headlamps.

Lastly, since you are concerned about safety.. Picture 3 shows a rubber fuel line and metal fuel filter practically setting on the exhaust manifold.... you need to re-engineer that

Is there a specific part number at Napa for the 1-wire alternator that I should use with this method?

markct · May 2, 2016

I suppose, and in the past I have adapted brackets etc, but nowadays the nice brackets can be had for around 25 bucks, well worth it in my opinion, and puts the kit right in line with pricing. So for me it's worth it. 91 bucks delivered to my door the last kit was

RedBarnNate · May 2, 2016

(quoted from post at 08:52:38 05/02/16) Go on eBay a seller that goes by
rareelectric has a kit complete with
brackets, alternator, belt, wiring and
ballast resistor for under 100 bucks
with shipping. Easiest way to do it, I
have bought 2 kits so far. At that price
not worth my time to find the pieces and
make brackets

I looked for this seller and can't seem to find his "store" on ebay.

RedBarnNate · May 2, 2016

(quoted from post at 09:00:35 05/02/16) Ouch.

15$ coil, napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

40$ alternator napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

10$ universal accessory adjustment slotted bracket napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

12$ belt napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

77$ and all the parts are local and take about 20 minutes to install.

You can literally convert your tractor at lunch...

I'm looking for a part number for a suitable 1-wire alternator.

Any ideas?

markct · May 2, 2016

http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FORD-NAA-
TRACTOR-ALTERNATOR-GENERATOR-CONVERSION-
501-640-641-651-660-/121492367268?
nav=SEARCH that's the one I used
Untitled URL Link

souNdguy · May 2, 2016

can't help you with a 1 wire.. I won't use them.. they cost more too.

the 3 wire I use is 213-4011B

RedBarnNate · May 2, 2016

(quoted from post at 11:08:18 05/02/16) can't help you with a 1 wire.. I won't use them.. they cost more too.

the 3 wire I use is 213-4011B

Ok - thanks for the notes.

I found this guide which might be helpful too...

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/articles/artint243.htm

R Geiger · May 2, 2016

(quoted from post at 12:08:18 05/02/16) can't help you with a 1 wire.. I won't use them.. they cost more too.

the 3 wire I use is 213-4011B

Why will you not use a 1 wire, outside of the cost that is?

markct · May 2, 2016

Some guys say they won't charge until
reved up, can't say I ever had that
problem tho with a proper one wire
alternator.

souNdguy · May 2, 2016

I've seen them not start till 800 or more. I had to help a guy reconvert his JD b back to a Gen after he found out that his b didn't run, at full throttle, fast enough to self excite.

That's been a while, and I'm guessing you can get lower cut in vregs , but why pay more for a 1 when a 3 works at minimum rpm?

markct · May 2, 2016

Interesting, I have heard of that happening but knock on wood hasn't been a problem on anything I converted.

souNdguy · May 2, 2016

I do all my stuff as 3. Did buy one that was a 1 wire already converted. It would start charging at some higher rpm maybee 750-900. It always started by the time I was mowing. When I put a loader and hoe on it I never used it much above that and actually had it not charge one day while using the backhoe. I ran at idle due to using a big pto pump.

After that I pried the black rubber plug out and tried it lil a 3 wire, worked fine.. 450 rpm. Lowest one I saw was on my 541, its alt would kick in at 350

3 wire of course.

I have heard for more $$ you can get lower rpm exciting vregs.. I just never saw the need to spend more $$ when 2' more wire makes the 40$ alt work fine.

markct · May 2, 2016

Good point, I used to do them all 3 wire back when alternators were sourced off whatever gm car I could find being junked. But lately buying new found the kit affordable. Same for my Daewoo excavator that got a different frame one wire which is much smaller and would probably be great on a tractor. It charges as soon as the motor starts too

HFJ · May 2, 2016

i know next to nothing about the guts of an alternator. i can only say my 1 wire alternator, which came with my conversion kit, charges immediately. ammeter reflects output at idle.

Ken(Ark) · May 2, 2016

15$ coil, napa/orilies/autozone/carquest.

I am a fan of those "No Resistor needed" coils . I think I still have a few scars from being burnt on those white ceramic resistors . Also that gives you one less item / connection to diagnose if there is a problem .

souNdguy · May 3, 2016

ye.. the less connections the better. less palces ofr loose/corrosion

tractorguy2 · May 3, 2016

For someone that doesn't have a welder or drill press to construct
the bracket. I think buying the kit is the best option.

Those u universal brackets need welded or holes redrilled 90% of
the time.

Steiner tractor parts and maybe this site will have the kit.

Ken(Ark) · May 3, 2016

nowadays the nice brackets can be had for around 25 bucks,

No need to waste money on brackets :wink:

Free EZ DIY Bracket

RedBarnNate · May 3, 2016

The alternator I was sold at the local Napa is part number 213-4011SW. Here are basic details...

Alternator Amperage: 63 Amp
Alternator Clock Position: 3:00
Pulley Type: 1 Groove
Voltage Regulator Type: Internal

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/RSE2134011SW/

souNdguy · May 3, 2016

no need to weld or drill if you don't want to..

You can buy those slotted universal brackets at parts stores that have a hole in one end, then a 3-4" slot in the other. You can bolt that somewher eup front.. head, water pump.. whater you can find close. stack washers if needed as spacers to line it up.

for the bottom bracket, the gen bracket is still plenty good.

markct · May 3, 2016

Same way I feel about one wire alternator lol!

RedBarnNate · May 3, 2016

(quoted from post at 10:31:19 05/03/16) no need to weld or drill if you don't want to..

You can buy those slotted universal brackets at parts stores that have a hole in one end, then a 3-4" slot in the other. You can bolt that somewher eup front.. head, water pump.. whater you can find close. stack washers if needed as spacers to line it up.

for the bottom bracket, the gen bracket is still plenty good.

We have the tools and equipment to fabricate a bracket from mild steel. Should work just fine.

RedBarnNate · May 3, 2016

I made the call to change to Electronic Ignition and do away with points at the same time. I ordered...

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-900_Electronic-Ignition-Conversion-Kit-12V-Negative-Ground_1244A.html

Any tips?

souNdguy · May 4, 2016

My advice is to do the 12v conversion. Make sure it runs. THEN do the EI conversion. Don't do it all at one time and compound problems.

RedBarnNate · May 4, 2016

(quoted from post at 06:15:49 05/04/16) My advice is to do the 12v conversion. Make sure it runs. THEN do the EI conversion. Don't do it all at one time and compound problems.

That's "sound" advice

.

RedBarnNate · May 6, 2016

(quoted from post at 06:15:49 05/04/16) My advice is to do the 12v conversion. Make sure it runs. THEN do the EI conversion. Don't do it all at one time and compound problems.

A paper came with the new 12v coil that says do not use with a resistor in the wiring. Is the picture below a resistor?

RedBarnNate · May 6, 2016

i think I answered my own question...looks like this is a junction block.

Any ideas on group size of battery? 600-800 cca probably??

RedBarnNate · May 9, 2016

ok I need some help here guys.

The ignition cool I purchased says it does not need a ballast resistor. The electronic ignition module says it should have a ballast resistor wired in-line.

Should I get a different coil?

HFJ · May 9, 2016

nate, my take is that if the coil says u don't need the ballast resistor, u don't need it. look at figure 2.

RedBarnNate · May 9, 2016

(quoted from post at 12:32:47 05/09/16)
nate, my take is that if the coil says u don't need the ballast resistor, u don't need it. look at figure 2.

I'm pretty sure I don't need it for the simple 12 volt conversion.

What I'm unsure of, is if I need it for the Electronic Ignition update portion...

HFJ · May 9, 2016

(quoted from post at 16:50:27 05/09/16)

I'm pretty sure I don't need it for the simple 12 volt conversion.

agreed, u don't with that coil.

What I'm unsure of, is if I need it for the Electronic Ignition update portion...

ok, so you've converted to 12 volts, and you're not using the ballast resistor.

"... not to be changed in any way with the installation of an ignitor system."

in other words, the ballast resistor is either in use or it isn't, but whichever way that is, it stays the same when u install the EI.

RedBarnNate · May 9, 2016

(quoted from post at 13:29:14 05/09/16)

(quoted from post at 16:50:27 05/09/16)

I'm pretty sure I don't need it for the simple 12 volt conversion.

Click to expand...

agreed, u don't with that coil.

What I'm unsure of, is if I need it for the Electronic Ignition update portion...

Click to expand...

ok, so you've converted to 12 volts, and you're not using the ballast resistor.

"... not to be changed in any way with the installation of an ignitor system."

in other words, the ballast resistor is either in use or it isn't, but whichever way that is, it stays the same when u install the EI.

I understand. I was leaning that direction with logic, but thank you for reinforcing my inkling!

The use of the ballast resistor is more closely tied with the choice of ignition coil, not necessarily the EI. I see....makes sense. In other words...if my 12V conversion is working as designed, with/without resistor, leave it the way it is when installing EI.

Royse · May 9, 2016

I add the 5/8 pulley to the alternator so I can run the original width belt.
Fits the water pump and crank pulleys better so it doesn't slip.
In many cases, the original belt will still work.
Depends on your brackets really.

This one from YT.

RedBarnNate · May 9, 2016

(quoted from post at 16:32:34 05/09/16) I add the 5/8 pulley to the alternator so I can run the original width belt.
Fits the water pump and crank pulleys better so it doesn't slip.
In many cases, the original belt will still work.
Depends on your brackets really.

This one from YT.

Howdy thanks for the feedback. We are using the original belt with the newer pulley now. The belt rides a bit high in the pulley for my liking, so I might change it out here in a bit.

RedBarnNate · May 10, 2016

Job Complete!

6 volt -> 12 volt Conversion (check)

Electronic Conversion (check)

Pictures to follow...

RedBarnNate · May 13, 2016

Ford 950 (900) 12 Volt Conversion

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