Ford LCG 2110 Tractor

I know this isn't Ford tractor isn't a n-series topic but wanted to post it both in the Ford and 9n 2n 8n sections to get a broader range of replies.

Well me and my husband have been searching for a tractor that can properly handle our Ford/Dearborn loader. We initially got the loader for either our 9n or 8n but more replies saying to not overburden the n-series with a loader like this, than the replies we got that said it would be fine.

The majority of people who replied said to start with a tractor model ranging from the 2000 to the 4000 series.

We came across this add on craigslist and just wondered if it would be a candidate for our loader and do these models of tractors have any problems. We looked up the meaning of LCG and looking like it mean Low Center of Gravity.

Here are the pictures of our loader and the tractor from craigslist...WOW gotta love those rear tires!

For many years I had a Wagner loader(FO 120) on my 9N Ford. It was "not" good. The 9N is only about "20 HP" at best and the tractor could barely carry a load in the bucket, ie, fresh manure. as well as its self. Also the Ford N series has no final drive and is considered a fast tractor. Since there is NO power steering the tractor is tough to steer. It also required a barrel full of stone or a concrete counter weight to keep the rear wheels down in order to get good traction. At the time(June 1980) the local Ford dealer was just starting out and he gave me a good deal on a trade in as well as mounting the Wagner loader on my newly acquired 2600 Ford diesel. The Wagner and the 2600 Ford are a good pair and I use them regularly - no problems. Today I would not waste my money /time putting a loader on an 8N or 9N tractor. In your shoes I would scout around and try to find a much newer diesel tractor with loader attached. This was my experience and maybe others have had different luck.

(quoted from post at 05:46:00 05/01/16) For many years I had a Wagner loader(FO 120) on my 9N Ford. It was "not" good. The 9N is only about "20 HP" at best and the tractor could barely carry a load in the bucket, ie, fresh manure. as well as its self. Also the Ford N series has no final drive and is considered a fast tractor. Since there is NO power steering the tractor is tough to steer. It also required a barrel full of stone or a concrete counter weight to keep the rear wheels down in order to get good traction. At the time(June 1980) the local Ford dealer was just starting out and he gave me a good deal on a trade in as well as mounting the Wagner loader on my newly acquired 2600 Ford diesel. The Wagner and the 2600 Ford are a good pair and I use them regularly - no problems. Today I would not waste my money /time putting a loader on an 8N or 9N tractor. In your shoes I would scout around and try to find a much newer diesel tractor with loader attached. This was my experience and maybe others have had different luck.

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Right...we know it isn't a good idea to put a loader on a n-series tractor and so our question was would the tractor that is shown in the pictures be a good candidate for our loader that shown in the pictures

I have a loader which appears to be about that size - maybe some larger - on a Ford 5000 with loaded rear 15.5-38s, and it makes the 5000 almost helpless when the bucket
is loaded with much at all. Don't get me wrong, I do use the loader quite a bit, but it all depends on what the intent is. I have been in trouble several times with my
5000 on slippery ground, or mud. I have considered many times of selling my 5000 with loader and buying a tractor with front wheel assist. To be honest (my opinion) a
loader makes a 2 wheel drive tractor worthless for the most part.....it is front heavy, awkward, and clumsy, and over time will destroy the front end (steering
components). I would not consider the combination you are considering, unless you can place a lot of rear ballast on that tractor.

A 2110 is basically a 3000 with shorty front
spindles and fat, short rear tires.
Some guys buy them and put the standard
spindles on them and put regular 28"ag bar
tires on them. The ring and pinion is a
little faster than a 3000 but with 8 speed
transmission they still have low enough
gears for general purpose tasks.
Keep in mind that the front end on a 3000 is
still your weak sister, wishbone setup as an
N has so not ideal for loader work. It is
substantially heavier than an N however.
That tractor has PS which is a Big help.
The photo is of my 3000 with LCG spindles on
it. It drops the front about 4". I also run
cheesy 14" car tires on the front to get it
even lower.
I like it low for mowing under limbs and
branches. And I think it looks cool which as
you know, is very important

(quoted from post at 06:21:09 05/01/16) A 2110 is basically a 3000 with shorty front
spindles and fat, short rear tires.
Some guys buy them and put the standard
spindles on them and put regular 28"ag bar
tires on them. The ring and pinion is a
little faster than a 3000 but with 8 speed
transmission they still have low enough
gears for general purpose tasks.
Keep in mind that the front end on a 3000 is
still your weak sister, wishbone setup as an
N has so not ideal for loader work. It is
substantially heavier than an N however.
That tractor has PS which is a Big help.
The photo is of my 3000 with LCG spindles on
it. It drops the front about 4". I also run
cheesy 14" car tires on the front to get it
even lower.
I like it low for mowing under limbs and
branches. And I think it looks cool which as
you know, is very important

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Thanks for the side-by-side pics... can definitely see the difference in the spindles and how it drops the front end.

One thing we noticed is that the 2110 LCG didn't have the same hole that is located under the radiator area like the n-series have to install a drive shaft for the loader pump. So is this 2110 set up differently whereby we would need to run hydraulic lines from the test port or something?

I like it low for mowing under limbs and
branches. And I think it looks cool which as
you know, is very important

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Nice set up . When I bought my 3000 the vertical muffler had been flopping around enough the pipe was deformed and the manifold was chipping small pieces of cast iron down into the manifold .

I replaced the manifold but really wish I had gone with the horizontal set up . The top of the exhaust is about 7' and if I cut much off I will be getting a face full . I have cleaned most of my limbs to 5-1/2 to 6 foot over the years and the N works the best darting in and out of the trees .

I am going to pull my 8N down to freshen the motor and remove the Sherman combo . When I sell the combo I can justify buying a few goodies .


P.S. off topic , I have fixed 5 flats and cut down 4 big Locus Trees along with spraying dozens of little ones . :x

Myself I would look for a 3400, heavier
front axle design for loader use.
Otherwise same tractor as a 3000. My
father bought one in the late 80s and it
was our "heavy" loader tractor for years
until I bought our 210c Deere which is
not even in the same category, that's a
front loader that can lift and carry
nearly 2 tons. But anyhow back to the
topic, a standard ag 3 cylinder front
end isn't going to be a huge improvement
over an earlier one. And really all that
a lcg tractor is going to get you is
poor traction with the small tires.

(quoted from post at 12:03:57 05/01/16) Myself I would look for a 3400, heavier
front axle design for loader use.
Otherwise same tractor as a 3000. My
father bought one in the late 80s and it
was our "heavy" loader tractor for years
until I bought our 210c Deere which is
not even in the same category, that's a
front loader that can lift and carry
nearly 2 tons. But anyhow back to the
topic, a standard ag 3 cylinder front
end isn't going to be a huge improvement
over an earlier one. And really all that
a lcg tractor is going to get you is
poor traction with the small tires.

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Thanks for the input...makes sense when we look at the front end how it pivots only on the center like how the N-series tractors do, and so this 2110 isn't gonna be what we need.

Was just hoping that it would be a good candidate because of it being 1,200 but can get it for 1,000 and it isn't too far away from us that we couldn't consider going to pick it up

At that price it would be an upgrade for
mowing, plowing etc, and pedals like you
wanted. But as much as I love our 3400
it sure isn't as easy to work on as our
4 cylinder Ford's especially with a
loader on it

Mark,
Good advice on the 3400.
It's an identical tractor to that 2110 or a 3000 except it has a very heavy, non adjustable front axle. Makes a man out of the standard front end.
KNL, that is a very good price in that tractor - if it runs good. If you want to do some wrenching, I have a complete 3400 front end here.
Direct bolt on swap. Uses your existing power steering. Complete with the heavy cast iron pan for added rigidity. I would let it go pretty reasonable. Reuses your front wheels, tires too.
I have to beg to differ on the 4 cyl tractors being easier to work on though.
It would be interesting to compare some jobs between them in a flat rate manual. I'm thinking for most major repairs a 3 cyl would spec for fewer hours than a 4 cyl. But none of them are real hard to do.

(quoted from post at 13:51:41 05/01/16) Mark,
Good advice on the 3400.
It's an identical tractor to that 2110 or a 3000 except it has a very heavy, non adjustable front axle. Makes a man out of the standard front end.
KNL, that is a very good price in that tractor - if it runs good. If you want to do some wrenching, I have a complete 3400 front end here.
Direct bolt on swap. Uses your existing power steering. Complete with the heavy cast iron pan for added rigidity. I would let it go pretty reasonable. Reuses your front wheels, tires too.
I have to beg to differ on the 4 cyl tractors being easier to work on though.
It would be interesting to compare some jobs between them in a flat rate manual. I'm thinking for most major repairs a 3 cyl would spec for fewer hours than a 4 cyl. But none of them hard to do

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I talked to my husband and he said that is very nice of you to offer but we wouldn't ever be able to afford the drive to go pick it up.

The 2110 tractor is only a 1 1/2 hour drive away from us and so more reasonably within our particular driving range.

Here are the descriptions from the craigslist ad incase anyone else is interested:

"Ford 2110 low profile tractor. 3 cylinder gas, power steering, 3 point, PTO. Tractor runs good, power steering works, hydraulics, pto all work. Sheet metal & paint is rough. Turf tires have very good tread, but have sidewall cracking. Good running and driving tractor."

...and if anyone wants the link, just send us a message

Ron,
I think your traction problem could easily be solved if you bought a new pair of 18.4x38s.
You could get more fluid in them.
Then you could sell those 15.5s to me at a cheap price. Win, win.
Wink
I need a good set that size.

(quoted from post at 15:24:33 05/01/16) Ron,
I think your traction problem could easily be solved if you bought a new pair of 18.4x38s.
You could get more fluid in them.
Then you could sell those 15.5s to me at a cheap price. Win, win.
Wink
I need a good set that size.

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With all due respect to you and others please stick more to the point/situation that the main topic is concerning, and so please keep your personal business propositions with other commenters on our posts outside of our posts...too many times our and other member's post are getting high jacked with material that has absolutely nothing to do with the topic.

With all due respect to you and others please stick more to the point/situation that the main topic is concerning, and so please keep your personal business propositions with other commenters on our posts outside of our posts...too many times our and other member's post are getting high jacked with material that has absolutely nothing to do with the topic.

Click to expand...

That's kind of what makes this forum work .

P.S. Did you know you posted a non "N" topic in the "N" forum , that's OK we are a friendly bunch that comes here to help people solve their problem AND socialize while we are at it .

Well that seems a bit harsh when you
posted an off topic post to begin
with....And besides he is just offering
up a potential option for you to make
that tractor work for you. This forum is
about discussion, discussion and
information drifts many ways, it was
very relevant to your tractor being
discussed tho so no harm done

Oops,
Sometimes a thread can take on a life of
it's own and end up having most of the posts
being unrelated to the original question.
But you can also learn more by accident that
way than other places by design.
I was just kidding Ron MO.
If it helps, I was thinking about tires for
my 4200. It's different than a 2110 but much
of it is similar. The engine is a 192 ci
instead of the 158 used in a 2110 but the
blocks are identical externally and will
interchange. Ford built 158, 175, 183, 192
and 201 ci engines for these tractors - both
gas and diesel. In later years they put
turbos on some of the diesels and gained
something like 25% more HP from the same
engine. For example, the 175 diesel used in
the 2110 produced about 37 HP when naturally
aspirated. Turboed it put out closer to 47.
The 8 sp transmissions are the same too
though the output ratio is higher on the
4000 and derivitaves compared to the 3000
and derivatives. The SOS transmissions are
identical though, same output ratio even,
and will interchange. The different output
ratios were accommodated with a different
ring and pinion.
The biggest difference between the 3000 and
4000 platforms, aside from size and HP, was
the larger tractors had independent PTO and
double reduction rear ends with wet disc
brakes. The smaller ones had live pto,
single reduction rear ends and dry, drum
brakes. Both platforms had several
derivitaves - ag or all purpose, Utility and
Industrial. The 2110 was a Utility model.
But all the peripherals like fuel and water
pumps, manifolds, complete electrical
systems, radiators, oil pump, type of PS
pump, etc were all identical. What's
interesting about these engines is the
bearings, cranks, cams, connecting rods,
lifters, push rods, rocker arms and gaskets
are identical between the gas and diesel
models and those internal parts are
identical between the 3, 4 and 6 cylinder
engines. I think they call that a modular
engine.
It's actually quite easy to convert one from
gas to diesel. Change the head, pistons and
fuel delivery system on a gasser and viola,
you now have a diesel. I did that once so if
you ever want to try it yourself I could
help.
Anyway, just a little info on the 3 cyl
Fords that mostly pertains to your post
about the 2110 - depending on your view and
interest.
The photo is of my 4200. It's kind of a big,
worthless, galoot of a thing but it is very
similar to the tractor you asked about after
all. I do wish I could find some decent
tires for it though. Please don't tell
anyone my rears are on backwards

PS, An interesting tidbit:
A lot of people will tell you a diesel will
produce more power than a gasser will.
But the gas engine in a 2110 was 158 ci and
was rated 37 HP at the pto.
The naturally aspirated diesel in that
tractor was 175 ci and had the same rated
pto HP.

(quoted from post at 18:24:57 05/01/16)

With all due respect to you and others please stick more to the point/situation that the main topic is concerning, and so please keep your personal business propositions with other commenters on our posts outside of our posts...too many times our and other member's post are getting high jacked with material that has absolutely nothing to do with the topic.

Click to expand...

That's kind of what makes this forum work .

P.S. Did you know you posted a non "N" topic in the "N" forum , that's OK we are a friendly bunch that comes here to help people solve their problem AND socialize while we are at it .

Click to expand...

Did I know? Well you probably need to go back and actually read my very first sentence when posting this..."I know this Ford tractor isn't a n-series topic but wanted to post it both in the Ford and 9n 2n 8n sections to get a broader range of replies"

and so it isn't directly a n-series topic but legitimately can be asked in the n-series category since we bought this loader for our n-series tractor and need to know from both n-series and other ford tractor owners what more is needed on a ford tractor for loader compared to the things not good for a loader being put on a n-series tractor.

There's no harsh words or feeling against ultradogmn when in fact WE OFTEN VALUE HIS INPUT ON THE VARIETY OF AREAS HIS KNOWLEDGE/EXPERIENCE COVERS and so why I was very polite in asking for such a very simple thing of trying to stick to the subject matter I didn't get rude about it or disrespectful in any way. My husband as well as several friends we had on here closed their accounts several years ago because of how often others were changing the subject matter and then other members who came into to read the post, didn't come to help get his issue resolved but continued on with the new subject matter, and so in attempt to try to avoid the subject getting further off of what it was based on in this post, again I politely asked that personal dealings be done outside of our and other's posts...can even private message someone else when wanting to do business deal/propositions or other such matters.

(quoted from post at 04:53:04 05/02/16) Oops,
Sometimes a thread can take on a life of
it's own and end up having most of the posts
being unrelated to the original question.
But you can also learn more by accident that
way than other places by design.

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That's actually not true when a person is wanting to find specific answers/information on a particular subject matter and does a search for it but then only finds out that they gotta read through sometimes countless other replies that had nothing to do with the topic just to find what does pertain to the topic

I know for a fact that if the index in tractor manuals didn't guide you to the information you're needing to know by taking you to other subjects, then you wouldn't find that particular manual to be helpful and then you wouldn't just say oh hey while I'm here under something that don't apply to getting my job done which is needed to get done at the moment, I'll just go ahead and read through this other stuff that I came by accident so I can learn some more. People who have free time may not mind doing that but for those who don't have the free time, obviously wouldn't want this manual

Well as I said discussion is just that,
if you just want straight answers then
go buy a traditional manual. If you want
to broaden your spectrum of Ford tractor
info as a whole,some of which may come
in handy sometime years later, then
welcome to the forum. Not worth getting
upset about, it's the cost of free
advice

(quoted from post at 06:48:54 05/02/16) Well as I said discussion is just that,
if you just want straight answers then
go buy a traditional manual. If you want
to broaden your spectrum of Ford tractor
info as a whole,some of which may come
in handy sometime years later, then
welcome to the forum. Not worth getting
upset about, it's the cost of free
advice

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"Not worth getting upset about" what are you talking about? Please don't be a manipulator by trying to use frivolous tactics of making it look like I'm getting upset... nowhere have I said, implied, or shown any aspects of getting upset

(quoted from post at 08:48:54 05/02/16) Well as I said discussion is just that,
if you just want straight answers then
go buy a traditional manual. If you want
to broaden your spectrum of Ford tractor
info as a whole,some of which may come
in handy sometime years later, then
welcome to the forum. Not worth getting
upset about, it's the cost of free
advice

Click to expand...

I have been on other forums that just answered questions . You might get one or two replies that really don't answer your question and a week later someone might give a reliable answer.
Some knowledgeable Guys have been here for decades that can give spot on info quickly , which they have done 100's of times . They would be bored and gone if it were not for the personal chit chat .
Seems like we are in the wrong forum AND making constant off topic replies to quit making off topic replies - Pot meet Kettle .

(quoted from post at 08:21:09 05/01/16) A 2110 is basically a 3000 with shorty front
spindles and fat, short rear tires.
Some guys buy them and put the standard
spindles on them and put regular 28"ag bar
tires on them.
That tractor has PS which is a Big help.
The photo is of my 3000 with LCG spindles on
it.

Click to expand...

Do you have 12.4 or 11.2 on the back ? I have 12.4's but I don't know if 11.2's would drop it enough to notice .
I have manual sterring with tri ribbed 16" , are the automotive type tires harder or easier to turn , Thanks .

Ken,
At the time that photo was taken I had 11.2s
on that tractor. 225 lb inner weights.
But...
I learned quickly they were too small - not
enough tire for the HP you have.
When doing anything like plowing or discing
you could spin the tires so fast that you'd
dig yourself in and have it sitting on the
drawbar in the blink of an eye.
I have 12.4s on it now and that is a better
match. You don't spin out so quickly though
you do need to be quick on the clutch
sometimes. Same weights.
KNL, FYI, a 3000 should have 13.6x28s on it
if you were to buy that 2110 and convert it.
I do think that tractor is a good deal - if
it runs good, etc.
PS, another thing I added when I lowered it
was the cast iron oil pan from an
industrial.
Have seen enough bashed in oil pans - even
one that took out the oil pump - that I
didn't want to run that risk, especially
with it so low.
Don't just go buy one and expect it to bolt
on though. There's a couple of gotchas
involved.