Cutter Tail Wheel (?)

Will this old pneumatic wheelbarrow wheel, once spruced up, work alright as a tail wheel for my 5' MF Cutter?

Too light duty for the cutter weight?
Too easily punctured?

Thanks,
T

The solid tires are used for a reason. I think you got it nailed.

The thorns at my place would puncture it right away!

Thanks men.

That settles that.
I've got blackberry canes galore.

I was plowing up a new garden patch this morning and twice brought up GREEN beer bottles. Being green made them easier to spot.

Terry

No.

Will not hold up.

Dean

Definitely not. I actually got one from TSC for my old Rhino SE-6, forget what it cost but it was very reasonable actually. The previous one came off, I never saw it happen. It was dusk, and there was no rear work light on the tractor. I had one pass left, and it went through the mower. It pretty much wrecked and it blew out the side wall of the mower, boy was that some work to fix. All from a lousy 50 cent pin that came out or failed. That tractor got a rear work light immediately.

Thanks Dean!

Billy,

A helpful tale!
Makes me realize that my work light is infinitely more than a back up light!

Must have been some similar mishap that took out half of my cutters output shaft seal housing . . . a lot of work fixing that as well.

It didn't take me long to realize how much I needed my ballast on the front. I just put it back on. I guess I was enjoying the look of the machine without it after I painted the bottom of the grille and the bumper.

Cheers,
T

Functional and necessary, I'd do the same using the front bumper. I've had this 2nd hand SE-6 for 14 years now, and have kept an eye on the lower, out put tapered shaft seal, so far so good. I think its the repeated shock loads of heavier brush, things that get hit like rocks, wood or stumps, combined with the hours that these get. Most want to thicken up the lube when they leak, cool to hear you repaired yours, I'd do the same, and its actually no big deal to get that gear box off the deck on mine.

Rear work light is a must if you work at night, there is no doubt about it.

Billy,

[color=darkblue:70f8076d3c]Functional and necessary, I'd do the same using the front bumper.[/color:70f8076d3c]

Felt like power steering with no ballast but such is the trade-off.

[color=darkblue:70f8076d3c]I've had this 2nd hand SE-6 for 14 years now, and have kept an eye on the lower, out put tapered shaft seal, so far so good.[/color:70f8076d3c]

The seal was unique; typical neoprene innards but closed metal on both outsides; i.e., not open on one side. I'm thinking that the tractor dealer knew about it which is why I got it for $200. and got them to throw in a shaft guard as well.

[color=darkblue:70f8076d3c]I think its the repeated shock loads of heavier brush, things that get hit like rocks, wood or stumps, combined with the hours that these get. Most want to thicken up the lube when they leak, cool to hear you repaired yours, I'd do the same, and its actually no big deal to get that gear box off the deck on mine. [/color:70f8076d3c]

I thought about cutting the deck a little to get my gearbox off
but instead I put it on its back with a pan under it to collect dripping gear lube . . . not that much 80W90 came out so I presume it had been leaking.

Haven't put my repair job to the test yet. I'm satisfied with the seal fit so its up to my brazing job as to whether it stands up.
I was sharpening and reshaping the blades by hand but now that I have this Shopsmith lathe I'm thinking of a sharpening jig where the blade would be held at the right angle on the table and be brought up against a spinning grinder disk slightly larger than a circular saw blade. Sounds dangerous I know.

Cheerz