1941/1942 ford 9N purchase consideration

Howdy,

I'm in the market for a tractor. Due to my budget, I'm looking at older tractors (40s/50s) and wanted to get some feedback.

There is a 41 or 42 Ford 9N for sale near me. The sale includes the tractor, a rotary cutter, and a back blade. The seller is asking $2k. The posting indicates it could "use paint" and the carburetor "needs some attention".

The ad also states "12 volt electrical conversion. Breakerless electronic ignition. Sherman under/overdrive unit. Newer rear tires".

The price seems at least in the ballpark of reasonable, but I wanted additional input. I know the rotary cutter only offers so much added value, depending on the condition.

I also know that the 9N does not have live PTO/Hydraulics. Given my price range I don't think I'll be able to find something that offers me the luxury.

The main purpose for thsi tractor will be to mow and maintain about an acre, move snow out of the driveway, and eventually grade the driveway some in preparation for a gravel addition. I also want it to be something I can grow with though, in the event I purchase more land in the future.
 
If it is all that it says it is, then it sounds like a good deal. That carb problems could be a bigger problem. I would want to run a compression test on the engine to make sure it is ok. Low compression can get spendy in a hurry. Make sure that it is a true over under sherman and not just an over.
 
Generally, I advise to hold out for an NAA or 600, 800 tractor.
They are much more capable machines.
On the other hand it is a fact that an N will still do a lot of useful work for you. They will easily do all the tasks you describe.
With the two implements and rear tires that sounds like a fair deal to me so I think you would do well to buy it if the tractor runs decently.
One thing to keep in mind is it will likely never be worth much more than it is now.
So if you go off on a restoration craze on it it will be a losing proposition.
It is far better to keep it well maintained and if/when you get the itch to spend some money on a tractor sell that one and put the extra into a newer model.
The implements you can keep to use on the next one.
 
Sounds like an okay deal. Depending where you are located though I would might want to hold out for something a bit better. N's are great tractors, but i see them often
around here for around $1500 in decent running condition.

I'm 30 mins south of Lansing MI. There's a Ford 641 near me for $2700 I've been thinking about. Good sheet metal, decent rubber, and seems to run and drive fine.
Tractors a bit newer and a bit stronger will come up for lower prices every now and then, just depends how bad you need a tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 17:20:02 04/24/16) Sounds like an okay deal. Depending where you are located though I would might want to hold out for something a bit better. N's are great tractors, but i see them often
around here for around $1500 in decent running condition.

I'm 30 mins south of Lansing MI. There's a Ford 641 near me for $2700 I've been thinking about. Good sheet metal, decent rubber, and seems to run and drive fine.
Tractors a bit newer and a bit stronger will come up for lower prices every now and then, just depends how bad you need a tractor.

You and I are very close to each other ;).

I've been looking for about a year now. I'd like to have something before we get into the swing of spring/summer, as my area is just a bit too much for a riding mower to handle.
 

what kind of rotary cutter? i'm guessing a finish mower would do u more good than a brush hog.

the paint wouldn't concern me. the carb, on the other hand... what exactly is wrong with it? is it just the carb, or is there something wrong with the engine that keeps it from running well, if at all?

if i can go out there, feel a cold block, and then see it start up and run ok, i'm with UD - the rear tires being good, the implements (assuming one's a finish mower), and it strikes me as worthwhile.
 
I'm sure you know this but a Sherman combo in good shape is worth a good bit of money, maybe as much as $750-850, so factor that into your decision as well.
 
Sounds like an excellent deal. You can always start with this and trade up. Once you catch the tractor bug, you'll want more than one any way.

Colin,MN
 
I figured we were close. I think I"d seen that ad.

I"ve been watching Cl lately, I"ll let you know if I come across any thing that looks good.

Here"s a Ford jubilee in Saline. Not sure how far you"d want to go just to look at a tractor, but it might be a decent deal. Not live PTO and no implements but a bit
more power you"ll find handy.

Are you a Ford guy? Or just want a decent cheap tractor?
jubilee ad
 
(quoted from post at 21:46:29 04/24/16) I figured we were close. I think I"d seen that ad.

I"ve been watching Cl lately, I"ll let you know if I come across any thing that looks good.

Here"s a Ford jubilee in Saline. Not sure how far you"d want to go just to look at a tractor, but it might be a decent deal. Not live PTO and no implements but a bit
more power you"ll find handy.

Are you a Ford guy? Or just want a decent cheap tractor?
jubilee ad

I like the way the Fords look, but I'm not too particular about brand. I was looking at a IH 300 Utility out in Nashville as well.
 
HSM........I HATE givin' prices but based upon most 3-speed 9N's thatza $1000 9N ...without... the implements. (rotary cutter is about $500, used) All Cat-I implements are "interchangeable". So until you "need" and buy a 120hp tractor, yer Cat-I implements will work just fine. The 9N/2N 4-nipple dizzy issa summb*tch to convert to "breakerless electronic ignition". Donna worry about the front tires, used motorcycle tires work just fine and are CHEAP. The rear agbar tires are $250 ea. Donna worry about gray'n'cracked sidewalls, just keep'm pressured at 12psi. CAUTION: some may be loaded with traction enhancing rust enabling calcium chloride water. (about 350lbs per tire) Inner tubes are known to leak and will RUST yer EXPENSIVE rims. Me? Iff'n it needs paint, I wanna due it. That way I KNOW what kinda paint is used. Summ unscrupulous sellers will spray bomb the sheetmetal and caller goot. To neubie tractor buyers, shiny paint is blinding to the pocketbook and covers many sins. ........HTH the amazed Dell
 
Send me an email. I have an 8N I want to sell.
It's not pretty but it works well and has a newly rebuilt engine.
I don't have any implements I want to sell with it.
But at least the 8N has position control on the hydraulics.
9N/2N did not. I'm not asking $2k for it either.
I'm near Ionia, MI and could possibly deliver it if needed.
 
N's are very easy / inexpensive to maintain and work well on small acreage . They have a low profile and easily turn a very sharp radius .

If the hot oil pressure is under 15psi or it smokes a little after it is warmed up , walk away , there will be a dozen more for sale next month .
 
I would agree with UltradogMn and go with an NAA, 600, 800 or newer. Newer machine and will handle all 3 pt rear end attachments. Just finished going thru a 600 for one neighbor and helped another who has an 800.
 
(quoted from post at 09:22:45 04/25/16) I would agree with UltradogMn and go with an NAA, 600, 800 or newer. Newer machine and will handle all 3 pt rear end attachments. Just finished going thru a 600 for one neighbor and helped another who has an 800.

I'd love to hold out for one of those, but in the time I've been looking (over a year now) I have not found one in my budget. I could afford maybe the tractor, but no implements.
 
Looked at that 9n again. Looks like new rear rims and tires, and a new starter at least. Looks real oily around the steering box though. I say have a look at it, and
if if the block ain't cracked and it seems good, offer $1500. Check the steering too. One of the steering arms looks bent in the pics.

Eventually you will find you want a finish mower. But for now that brush hog will do.

I bought a non running 2n with a Sherman overdrive (I think) last year for $1300 with a finish mower and blade.

Another option is get in tough with Royse.

If ya get that 9n, there's a pretty good chance you'd be able to get $100 for it even if it stopped running.
link to the 9n.
 
"If ya get that 9n, there's a pretty good chance you'd be able to get $100 for it even if it stopped running"

I can't believe I keep missing these typos. should be you could probably get $1000 for it even if it stopped running.
 
(quoted from post at 14:29:39 04/25/16)
(quoted from post at 09:22:45 04/25/16) I would agree with UltradogMn and go with an NAA, 600, 800 or newer. Newer machine and will handle all 3 pt rear end attachments. Just finished going thru a 600 for one neighbor and helped another who has an 800.

I'd love to hold out for one of those, but in the time I've been looking (over a year now) I have not found one in my budget. I could afford maybe the tractor, but no implements.

The thing most people with a $1000-$2000 tractor budget find out is that most tractors in that price range are slap worn out and need another $1000+ in parts and many hours of labor poured into them just to keep them working properly. So a year or so later they wind up owning less tractor for the same amount of money.

TOH
 
Seller indicates the following regarding the Carb

"Carb possibly has some dirt in it as I could not seem to get it to stay running in the cold."
 
(quoted from post at 00:22:56 04/27/16) Seller indicates the following regarding the Carb

"Carb possibly has some dirt in it as I could not seem to get it to stay running in the cold."
I can help you rebuild the carb or rebuild it for you if you like.
I can't help with the 8N anymore, sold it yesterday.
The first guy that looked at it bought it on the spot.
He didn't even ask me to take less money for it.

35477.jpg
 
In regards to other brands.

This is from a well respected local mechanic:

Stay away from the IH 300 utility (his words). Some parts are no longer available. He has one at his place now that needs steering gearbox parts. The owner is currently trying to find either the box or parts to rebuild it.

Rick
 
Well we'll see if I look at it at this point. I originally was going to look either yesterday or today, but the tractor stopped running. Apparently it was an ignition issue, and that's been resolved. He says it doesn't seem to run much above an idle, and that it may be leaking fuel from the throttle shaft.

I don't mind turning wrenches and doing the work, but I don't know how much this fellow is willing to negotiate on price. I'm not sure I'm willing to pay what he's asking
 
"Leaking fuel from the throttle shaft"

When running or when setting?
Shouldn't be liquid fuel there to leak in either case.

BTW, the tractor pictured in that ad does not have a
Sherman over/under - aka "combination" transmission.

It looks to be the more common Sherman Overdrive.
That will make it run at normal speeds and faster speeds,
as in dual range but the most common complaint with speed
is that they already go too fast. Especially in reverse.

Hard to say what the implements are worth without at least a pic.
Inspection would obviously be a better measure.
 

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