Oil Pump Reconditioning

TheOldHokie · Oct 20, 2009

One of the denizens that lurks here sent me an oil pump to be rebuilt. We've had a number of discussions about exactly what was involved so I decided to take the opportunity to put together a quick How-To with pictures that hopefully clarifies things. It's posted on my new website gonnabe for anyone who cares to look. It's a PDF file so Adobe Reader or equivalent software is needed.

Oil Pump Rebuild (PDF)

Njoy,

TOH

Sean (TX) · Oct 20, 2009

Nice work..How much you charging for a rebuild?

Dunk · Oct 20, 2009

(quoted from post at 23:21:31 10/20/09) One of the denizens that lurks here sent me an oil pump to be rebuilt. We've had a number of discussions about exactly what was involved so I decided to take the opportunity to put together a quick How-To with pictures that hopefully clarifies things. It's posted on my new website gonnabe for anyone who cares to look. It's a PDF file so Adobe Reader or equivalent software is needed.

Oil Pump Rebuild (PDF)

Njoy,

TOH

That was quite GREAT, and quite interesting, but possibly a little above what most laymen can handle.

I do know that there exists a jig for that, to eliminate the "expurtice" (knowing the ins and out explicitly) and just do it's thing.

And that is NOT meant in a cut down in any way.

I think you do awesome work!!

Just a fact, as I see it.

HCooke · Oct 20, 2009

Thanks for making this available.

TheOldHokie · Oct 20, 2009

(quoted from post at 22:27:29 10/20/09)
That was quite GREAT, and quite interesting, but possibly a little above what most laymen can handle.

I do know that there exists a jig for that, to eliminate the "expurtice" (knowing the ins and out explicitly) and just do it's thing.

And that is NOT meant in a cut down in any way.

I think you do awesome work!!

Just a fact, as I see it.

Yep - the jig elimnates the need for a machine and indicator. Also costs $125 so if you have a dial indicator and a good drill press all you need do is set her up and punch it out. The key is the reamed hole needs to be centered accurately - either with the jig and alignment dowel or by indicating it in.

TOH

Dunk · Oct 20, 2009

I bet TOH is more reasonable?

Oil Pump Tool - A complete tool set with jig, punches and reamer For 2N, 8N, 9N. (Part No: OPT20) $103.47

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/...amp;&md=8N&cat=Oil System&r=mcats

Dunk · Oct 20, 2009

(quoted from post at 23:35:41 10/20/09)

(quoted from post at 22:27:29 10/20/09)
That was quite GREAT, and quite interesting, but possibly a little above what most laymen can handle.

I do know that there exists a jig for that, to eliminate the "expurtice" (knowing the ins and out explicitly) and just do it's thing.

And that is NOT meant in a cut down in any way.

I think you do awesome work!!

Just a fact, as I see it.

Click to expand...

Yep - the jig elimnates the need for a machine and indicator. Also costs $125 so if you have a dial indicator and a good drill press all you need do is set her up and punch it out. The key is the reamed hole needs to be centered accurately - either with the jig and alignment dowel or by indicating it in.

TOH

Dayum!!!

Ya beat me...

GA Dave · Oct 20, 2009

Yep, it makes my head hurt also Dunk. David..................

Anonymous-0 · Oct 20, 2009

Great pictures and lesson, but I thought that the oil flow in a gear pump is around the outside of the gears, not squeezed between the gear teath. Could you show a picture of the gear rotation and the inlet and outlet ports?

TheOldHokie · Oct 20, 2009

(quoted from post at 22:50:20 10/20/09) Great pictures and lesson, but I thought that the oil flow in a gear pump is around the outside of the gears, not squeezed between the gear teath. Could you show a picture of the gear rotation and the inlet and outlet ports?

You are correct - I'll update that description. If I can find an appropriate graphic showing the flow I'll include it as well.

TOH

JMOR · Oct 20, 2009

(quoted from post at 22:59:40 10/20/09)

(quoted from post at 22:50:20 10/20/09) Great pictures and lesson, but I thought that the oil flow in a gear pump is around the outside of the gears, not squeezed between the gear teath. Could you show a picture of the gear rotation and the inlet and outlet ports?

Click to expand...

You are correct - I'll update that description. If I can find an appropriate graphic showing the flow I'll include it as well.

TOH

Maybe these are something you can work with. By the way, excellent work!

TheOldHokie · Oct 21, 2009

(quoted from post at 23:14:54 10/20/09)

(quoted from post at 22:59:40 10/20/09)

(quoted from post at 22:50:20 10/20/09) Great pictures and lesson, but I thought that the oil flow in a gear pump is around the outside of the gears, not squeezed between the gear teath. Could you show a picture of the gear rotation and the inlet and outlet ports?

Click to expand...

You are correct - I'll update that description. If I can find an appropriate graphic showing the flow I'll include it as well.

TOH

Click to expand...

Maybe these are something you can work with. By the way, excellent work!

Thanks Jesse - I knew you'd be on that like....

That little graphic should be perfect - I was trying to hold the text down so it didn't overflow to the next page and that should fit right in line.

TOH

Dunk · Oct 21, 2009

(quoted from post at 23:41:09 10/20/09) Yep, it makes my head hurt also Dunk. David..................

I just wish I had a clue how the dial thing shows where the center is, that beats me.

Dan · Oct 21, 2009

Is that the pump I sent you so you could fabricate the jigs? Now that it is nice and rebuilt, I would like it back

Dan

TheOldHokie · Oct 21, 2009

(quoted from post at 06:54:42 10/21/09)

(quoted from post at 23:41:09 10/20/09) Yep, it makes my head hurt also Dunk. David..................

Click to expand...

I just wish I had a clue how the dial thing shows where the center is, that beats me.

It's magic :shock: Actually a clever little gadget called a coaxial centering indicator that makes indicating in a machine spindle quick and easy. It has a drive shaft that you chuck up in the spindle. The feeler (it comes with a bunch of different lengths and shapes for ID and OD) is offset from the centerline of the driveshaft. You position the indicator over the approximate center of the part and adjust the feeler tip offset to give you a small deflection on the dial indicator. Then you hold the torque arm on the indicator and turn on the mill. As the feeler rotates around the circumference of the workpiece the indicator needle rocks side to side indicating the amount of runout from center. With the spindle running you diddle the X/Y table feed screws until the needle stops moving. When the needle sits steady with the spindle running the work is centered directly below the spindle. This one is an elCheapo Taiwanese import which works so-so. I bought it to try out the concept and will be upgrading to a quality name brand instrument as soon as I can find a good sale.

Machinists have been doing the same thing using a plain dial indicator and rotating the spindle by hand for decades. But the face of the indicator rotates with the spindle and you have to crane around the backside of the spindle to see the dial - this is a lot quicker and easier - took about a minute to center that pump housing. Billy Mays would have a field day pitching these on the Machinist Shopping Network

TOH

Dunk · Oct 21, 2009

(quoted from post at 09:55:31 10/21/09)

(quoted from post at 06:54:42 10/21/09)

(quoted from post at 23:41:09 10/20/09) Yep, it makes my head hurt also Dunk. David..................

Click to expand...

I just wish I had a clue how the dial thing shows where the center is, that beats me.

Click to expand...

It's magic :shock: Actually a clever little gadget called a coaxial centering indicator that makes indicating in a machine spindle quick and easy. It has a drive shaft that you chuck up in the spindle. The feeler (it comes with a bunch of different lengths and shapes for ID and OD) is offset from the centerline of the driveshaft. You position the indicator over the approximate center of the part and adjust the feeler tip offset to give you a small deflection on the dial indicator. Then you hold the torque arm on the indicator and turn on the mill. As the feeler rotates around the circumference of the workpiece the indicator needle rocks side to side indicating the amount of runout from center. With the spindle running you diddle the X/Y table feed screws until the needle stops moving. When the needle sits steady with the spindle running the work is centered directly below the spindle. This one is an elCheapo Taiwanese import which works so-so. I bought it to try out the concept and will be upgrading to a quality name brand instrument as soon as I can find a good sale.

Machinists have been doing the same thing using a plain dial indicator and rotating the spindle by hand for decades. But the face of the indicator rotates with the spindle and you have to crane around the backside of the spindle to see the dial - this is a lot quicker and easier - took about a minute to center that pump housing. Billy Mays would have a field day pitching these on the Machinist Shopping Network

TOH

Thank You!!

That makes good sense.

glyn · Apr 23, 2016

sir I would to contact you about having you rebuild my 8n oil pump. my name is glyn roe e-mail [email protected] my phone is 615-444-4397.please reply

Oil Pump Reconditioning

TheOldHokie

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Sean (TX)

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Dunk

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HCooke

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TheOldHokie

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Dunk

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Dunk

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GA Dave

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Anonymous-0

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TheOldHokie

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JMOR

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TheOldHokie

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Dunk

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Dan

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TheOldHokie

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Dunk

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glyn

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