OT but Ford related. Pinto Carb issues

Guys. I recently bought a 1929 Mercedes Gazelle replica with a 1980 Pinto drive train. It was factory built in 1981 at Classic Motor Carriages in Florida. It has 20K miles and is in incredible shape. It has not been driven much as you can tell from the mileage. It is a nice practical (NOT) toy as my wife says.

The car idles great and accelerates perfect up to about 25 MPH, but it just won't go much faster. Seems 2500 RPM is the limit. Since it acted like only the idle part of the carb was working, I bought a rebuild kit and I just rebuild the carburetor (Holley 5200) and I found sludge in the gas bowl and the main jets were plugged. I felt certain I found the issue. I cleaned every passage I could find. I replaced all the diaphragms and cleaned all the jets. I just drove the car and it frankly is about the same. It will rev to 5000 rpm easily in park, but 2500 is the max driving. Vacuum looks good according to my gauge. All the emission stuff is just like is came from the factory. I also installed a new fuel pump and new filter. I flushed the gas tank and it has fresh gas in it.

I replaced PCV, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Timing is right on and the advance seems to be working properly.

Right now I am stumped. Could there be passages in the carb that I have not got clean. Any ideas guys?

electric choke closing up?
plugged catalytic converter, if it has one.
o2 sensors, again if any?
All just guesses, others will pipe in soon.

Walston,I'm with Dune Country,I could have a plugged catalytic converter if one is on it.It builds up exhaust pressure keeping the engine from building RPMs.It might rev up setting still for a few seconds,but going down the road the pressure builds up.Kinda like a potatoes stuffed in the tail pipe.
If it bolts on take it loose and go for a test drive.

electric choke seems to be working fine.
no o2 sensors
Plugged catalytic converter is certainly a possibility I had not considered. Thanks

Drop the exhaust pipe from the mmanifold and see what it does.

I have had some baffeling problems with blocked exhaust pipes. For a few years GM made exhaust pipes that consisted of thin layers of steel. So thin
that sometimes the inside layer of this material would just flop down and completely block the exhaust.

Zane

If the exhaust checks fine, check the cam timing. Through the years I have worked on a few rangers, mustangs with the 2.3 that ran like that with the t-belt 1-2 teeth off. Im not sure about the 2.0 pinto engine but the later 2.3's had a plug you pull on the timing cover to see the marks.

Well it was a good idea, but it didn't help. I disconnected the catalytic converter and put two 1/2" nuts in between the front flange and it sounded really cool, but it had minimal help. 2700 RPM's instead of 2500. Also the inside of the catalytic converter was pristine clean.

It is a 2.3 liter engine. I will look into the timing belt, but the engine runs so smooth, I am skeptical if that is it.

My gut tells me it still may be in the darn carburetor.

Does it have plenty of power up to 2500rpm, and will rev past 2500 in park/neutral? Most of the time a carb problem will still allow engine to rev up at least to near redline but might be a little slow getting there, even if the secondary or throttle plates were not opening all the way. Another thing to consider is the fuel filter and pump, maybe its starving for fuel, just a guess?

If the carb was that gunked up might the fuel lines also be full of the same gunk Have you tried blowing air through the lines?

I used to race these engines in a mini-stock. We had one that was blue printed and
balanced, that would turn 10,000 RPM. Take the pinto carb off and the manifold adapter and
set a 2bbl motocraft from a 302 on it. It will come alive.

I saw that one for sale on Clist awhile back, it's white isn't it?

I'd do a compression test - with that few miles it's possibly your rings are sticking.

That little progressive 2bbl is a capable carb for the little motor, check your throttle linkage, make sure both barrels open up - I've seen the linkage stick to where you're only running on the primary. That will limit your revs under load.

(quoted from post at 09:00:31 04/22/16) I used to race these engines in a mini-stock. We had one that was blue printed and
balanced, that would turn 10,000 RPM. Take the pinto carb off and the manifold adapter and
set a 2bbl motocraft from a 302 on it. It will come alive.

Click to expand...

Thanks that sounds like fun!

The Ignition control module was bad. I swapped it out this morning and now I can hit 4200 rpm driving. It accelerates well and I can now go 55 up hill. I could barely get to 45 downhill before. Here is one photo, I will post some more later