Reasking an old question 9n/8n Duals- clarification required

I had asked this in the middle of another thread, and wanted to revisit it.

If I wanted to use the rear wheels / rims from my 9n as duals on my 8n; is it possible to space the wheels out on both rears, then drill holes in the 8n wheels to mount the 9n rims to the 8n wheels?

I think a guy named GEARS on here said that he had done something similar.

Has anybody else gone down that path? Has anybody seen it done? tractor show PICS? etc.?
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fish hunter I have a real bad headach right now cant think too well, I think 8 and 9n rears have the same bolt pattern. Uncle at the junk yard had a drawer full of double ended bolts, threads on both ends, one end tightened down to hold the inner wheel on then there was a 4 -6 inch gap you could put a wrench on, and you slid the outer rim on the other end of the bolts then tightened a nut down against the outside wheel. If your wheels are the same bolt pattern they worked good When they closed the yard I intended to pick up some for my D17, but the drawer was empty, probably went to the scrapper.
 

Something like this...
35309.jpg
 
No you actually removed the bolts holding the center plate to the tractor hub. These bolts had
threads on both ends with about a 4" long 6 sided place in the middle of the bolt that you put the
wrench on to the tighten down the inside plate to the hub. Then you slid the outside wheel and
center plate over the bolts and tightened up the nuts holding the outside tire,rim, and center to
the actual tractor hub. I know, if I knew how to draw on here it would be easier to explain.
 
hunter, your difficulty will be the mis-matched center dish bolt pattern. For a 9 or 2N, the large 6 bolt inner dish can be sandwiched front to back and allow for the 28" 6 bolt rim to be bolted up (someone cautioned this stresses the rear axle/wheel bearings).

I did a similar setup to what you want to try with my Ferg TO30, I only ran 3 bolts (every other one) to connect the 9N dish to the Ferg stock dish. The pain was the extreme angle of taper, the spacers to mount it flush were a pain. I sold it before I tried bolting the duals on though....
 
I assume you need extra flotation for some
reason?
One thing you might try is having some
pieces of heavy wall round tubing cut to
length for spacers.
Say about 5/8" id and 1 1/4" od. Then buy
some 5/8" all thread. Remove the existing
carriage bolts that bolt the rim to the
center. Insert a piece of all thread in
their place, add one of your spacers, then
the next rim. Nuts and washers on both end
of the all thread. You would not need to use
the second set of centers. I would put 6
spacers on each set of tires. Do some
measuring to determine the length of spacer
and all thread needed. I would probably
allow at least 1 1/2" clearance between your
tires.
I'm sure the spacers and all thread wouldn't
be cheap but you could find it at most any
steel yard. They would probably saw cut them
to length for you too.
Click on the link for a photo of the tubing.
I don't think ordinary pipe would work for
spacers as the walls are too thin to give
you the side thrust you need.
If you figure out a way to add duals
economically let the board know as others
here have asked about this before.
click here
 
What UD is suggesting is similar in execution to the band style duals, minus the band.

Essentially clamping an extra rim to the existing one using spacers and all-thread.

It should work.
 

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