8n lift comes up when I start the tractor.

Brassbandit

New User
Ok so here's where I'm at mostly thanks to all the info I found on this forum.

So i am having problems with my lift namely it won't go down. Pulled the inspection plate and there was a milkshake inside. I drained all the fluid dumped in 5 gallons of diesel and fired up the old girl to clean out the sludge. I noticed that the lift won't drop all the way even with just diesel in there. I can raise it all the way up and when I push the lever down it falls quickly half way then stops.

If I shut the tractor off and give it a few hours the implement will drop to the ground. . If I leave the position control lever all the way down and start the tractor the implement immediately raises about half way.

What the heck is going on.

I'm going to continue cleaning it out tomorrow but I don't want to put in new fluid if I can't get my darn implement to go all the way down or I'll just have to drain it again to try and fix it.
 
That is similar to what my 8N was doing. My son and I pulled the top cover and discovered:

1) The bar that goes from the top cover to the control valve on the pump was bent into a curve.

2) So much crud around the control valve that it could barely move.

3) The link that selects between position and draft control was bent. Eventually we figured out that someone had taken the position control lever off and put it back on wrong (why would you take it off in the first place?). With it on wrong, you could not switch between position and draft without bending the link.

Number 2 led us to pull the pump out the bottom and clean everything up.

It now works fine.

I suspect you'll find 1 and/or 2 to be the cause of your problem. After all, how many times can 3 happen?
 
You won't flush it out with diesel. There
are so many nooks and crannies in the
housing that sludge will stay there. I
literally had to scoop and scrape the
sludge out. It gets like clay at times.
 
Well I know my control am that runs verticle to the pump inside the housing does have a slight curve. . I want sure if that was normal.

Is it possible that the position control arm that controls up and down could have slipped and is now no longer returning all the way to the down position?

If pulling the top cover is necessary I might as well fix that cylinder while I'm in there. What else should I replace besides the exhaust valve while I'm in there?

I'm really trying to avoid any major rebuild work till the summer because I don't have access to a shop and in northern Alberta where I live day light is limited and temperature swings can be fierce.
 
Control valve sticking because of dirty oil.

You will need to do a good job of opening the inspection plates and cleaning it better.

With that bent control arm you probably will need to pull the lift cover and straighten it and re adjust the linkage.

See my link below.

Zane
ZANES LIFT STUFF
 
(quoted from post at 10:39:19 02/10/16) Well I know my control am that runs verticle to the pump inside the housing does have a slight curve. . I want sure if that was normal.

Is it possible that the position control arm that controls up and down could have slipped and is now no longer returning all the way to the down position?

If pulling the top cover is necessary I might as well fix that cylinder while I'm in there. What else should I replace besides the exhaust valve while I'm in there?

I'm really trying to avoid any major rebuild work till the summer because I don't have access to a shop and in northern Alberta where I live day light is limited and temperature swings can be fierce.
Well I know my control am that runs verticle to the pump inside the housing does have a slight curve. . I want sure if that was normal. " That arm is a foot long, so a slight bend along its length will put the bottom out of position by a significant amount, considering that the normal travel from lift to drop is only about 1 1/2 inch! 3/4 " from center/hold position to either lift or lower. In the fore/aft direction the arm is straight as a good ruler from stop pin to tip.
 
Ok. . My plan was to keep cleaning until function begins to return. So when you say adjust the linkage are you talking inside or is it possible my control am is no longer in the correct position.

I see you offer a jig to accomplish this unfortunately I live in Alberta and with the oilfield in the toilet and our exchange rate that 65 dollar jig plus shipping will quickly become 200 dollars that I just can't justify right now with work being hard to come by. 8 months ago I wouldn't have cared about the price but times are tough up here.
 

Dang it. Ok so that might be my problem. I'm a welder by trade so I can probably fix it or fabricate a new part that is unless it is possible to adjust the control arm to compensate for it.
 
Well finely got some time off. Tore down the hydraulic side and this is what I found. Time for some heating and beating.
35307.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:45:18 04/21/16) Well finely got some time off. Tore down the hydraulic side and this is what I found. Time for some heating and beating.
35307.jpg
s you said back in Feb, it sure does have a 'slight' bend/curve to it. :wink:
 
Be careful hammering on it, as the little ball end has been known to pop right off!
 
(quoted from post at 13:41:04 04/21/16) Be careful hammering on it, as the little ball end has been known to pop right off!

Success. I should have taken a picture of when it was finished. Imy a welder by trade and a hobbyist smith so I just heated the piece til it was pliable then used a vice to squeeze it slowly back to shape then wrapped it and allow cooled it to maintain temper. I did find another problem though.
 
(quoted from post at 17:12:27 04/22/16)
(quoted from post at 13:41:04 04/21/16) Be careful hammering on it, as the little ball end has been known to pop right off!

Success. I should have taken a picture of when it was finished. Imy a welder by trade and a hobbyist smith so I just heated the piece til it was pliable then used a vice to squeeze it slowly back to shape then wrapped it and allow cooled it to maintain temper. I did find another problem though.
K, I'll bite. What is the new problem?
 

I posted a picture. There is a big chunk of metal missing or is that normal? Looks broken to me but this is my first tractor. Is it something I should be worried about?
 
(quoted from post at 23:09:50 04/22/16)
I posted a picture. There is a big chunk of metal missing or is that normal? Looks broken to me but this is my first tractor. Is it something I should be worried about?

Mine is like that as well. Pretty sure that is normal.
 

Thanks for the reply puts my mind at ease.

Getting that little ball on the end of the rod to drop into the valve sure was fun on my own.
 
(quoted from post at 06:26:02 04/23/16)
(quoted from post at 23:09:50 04/22/16)
I posted a picture. There is a big chunk of metal missing or is that normal? Looks broken to me but this is my first tractor. Is it something I should be worried about?

Mine is like that as well. Pretty sure that is normal.
here you can see the gear? That is the way they were cast.
 
(quoted from post at 10:50:48 04/23/16)
Thanks for the replies guys. Not sure why this fit split from the main thread so I didn't see it.

this is one of the quirks of the staff maintaining two different forums, so to speak - classic view and modern view. i use modern view myself, and i suspect that when people on classic view reply to a thread one of us modern folk have started, those replies sometimes end up in a thread of their own.

i've had this happen to me as well. i've got a thread for my engine rebuild, and i often get replies to it which are in a separate thread. i THINK this is how it works: when u read a post in the extra thread, reply to it in the main thread. i know this works, and i'm not convinced the people whose replies end up in the extra thread will see your post if u make it in the extra thread. i know they can see it in the main thread tho.
 

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