8n Clutch kit

sixone50

New User
I am about to change the clutch out in my 8n, my question is does the kit, 8n7563kit, come with everything I will need? Is there anything else in there that I need to replace while I am in there. I have never replaced a clutch in anything so this is a new experience and I am a little apprehensive going into this. Does anyone know of any instructions online with the steps on doing this? Thanks for your help in advance. George
 
I didn't look up those part numbers but a
kit should include the clutch disc, pressure
plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.
I would also order the transmission input
shaft seal and install a new one.
Splitting an N is pretty simple really. You
just need a concrete pad to do it on, basic
hand tools and a floor jack.
I do not like jack stands. I prefer wood
cribbing. Cribbing is much safer.
I prefer to block up the front half under
the pan and put the floor jack under the
transmission and roll that away from the
front using the rear wheels. Same with
reassembly. Easier than trying to steer the
front back to the rear with the front tires
flopping around. When you block it up block
it JUST high enough to take the weight off
the front tires. You do not want it hump
backed. That makes it impossible to
reconnect the two halves.
I find it is easier to disconnect the tie
rods on the front, not the back end. Drive a
heavy metal item like a wood splitting wedge
between the bolt on the tie rod end and the
axle. Then smack the steering arm with a BFH
to pop the tie rod loose. Then rotate the
tie rod back against the rear tire so it's
out of your way. It really is not a hard job
and can easily be done by a novice.
 
make sure you look at the clutch disk when you remove it. they usually go in only 1 way. You may need a clutch disk alignment tool those can usually be rented from a car parts place
 
UD, When you do it they way you describe, should you still put wedges in the front axle to prevent the front half from tipping sideways?
 
My method is slightly different than Ultradogs, but it is different because I use more tools. I do this in my garage and
I have an overhead chain hoist (although in my old garage it was a come-along on a pipe between two rafters). I take out
the 4 bolts that hold the steering box to the transmission, disconnect any wiring to back lights, hook a come-along to the
steering shaft and lift it just high enough that the transmission lip will slide underneath. This eliminates messing
around with the steering components. The only other thing I would add is that it would be a cold day in Hades when I got
the new clutch plate in exactly the same as the old one came out. Remember you can rotate the transmission input shaft
with the PTO stub if you have it engaged. One last thing - while that transmission / rear is on a floor jack - put at
least jackstands, better more cribbing under that because should it fall on you, it would hurt.

With all that said - it is a much easier job than most think. I might also say if there is no cotter key in the drain
hole, put one in. If you do not know what I mean - feel free to ask.
 
Hey Harold... (Tongue firmly in cheek) ... UD is married now...... He no longer needs us to mention he has forgotten something. ( Sorry Jerry - that was just sitting there waiting for A-Hole )
 

Ultradog, thanks for the information but I do have one more question if you don't mind. The wedge in the front end can you tell me a little more about that? I am not sure I understand where that goes or what you are talking about.

Thanks again,
George
 
No need for an alignment tool, simply use the input shaft from the tranny. Needs to be out to replace the seal anyhow, and you would be foolish not to replace the seal while you're that far into it
 
There were two types of wedges mentioned in
this thread. One is a wood splitting wedge
for removing the tie rods.
The other is a pair of wooden edges that you
cut out of a chunk of 2x4 and drive in
between the front axle and the engine mount.
This will keep the front half of the tractor
from tipping sideways when you disconnect it
from the transmission.
Maybe someone here has a photo of a wedge
driven in that they can post.
I don't have one.
Do you have an I&T FO-4 manual for your
tractor?
If not I highly recommend that you get one.
It should give good descriptions of all
kinds of repairs to your tractor.
It is a must have item ID you own one of
these tractors.
 
Thanks Ultradog, I do have shop manual for the 8n. I think I understand the wedge thing now. I do appreciated the help very much.

George
 
Here is a picture of the wedges we used to stabilize the engine. This is overkill. Two wedges are important and two are actually not very useful. The horizontal ones are the ones that keep the engine from leaning over at the worst possible moment. I used the kit to put in a new clutch, etc. in my 52 8N this winter. Worked great. Definitely do the transmission seal!!! In my 'little Henry' the front seal was so leaky it was actually the clutch problem. Oil everywhere. Got it all back together and we're good to go. Huge improvement.
Untitled URL Link
 

A new gasket for the input-shaft bearing retainer would be nice to have on hand also (even if you have to buy a pack of 10 they are cheap)...

9N7086 :wink: :wink:
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top