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how to ad a hydraulic remote on a 8n

8

8N Tim

Member
Hi everyone. How hard would it be to ad a hydraulic remote on to an 8n? I have a a couple attachments that need a single remote. Has anyone done it? Any ideas and is it worth it?
 
(quoted from post at 01:24:44 04/20/16) Hi everyone. How hard would it be to ad a hydraulic remote on to an 8n? I have a a couple attachments that need a single remote. Has anyone done it? Any ideas and is it worth it?
Click to expand...

You have two basic options for adding remotes:
  • [*:3648088ba5]Use the internal pump to supply your remotes by chaining down the lift and taking pressurized oil from the test port on the base of the pump. This is easy to do and dirt cheap but you will be unable to use the 3 point lift when using the remotes and your flow at the remotes will be limited to roughly 2-3 GPM.[*:3648088ba5]Add an auxiliary pump and use it to power the remotes. This route is more expensive but it has the advanatages of not interfering with the 3pt operation and potentially higher flow rates at the remotes. You can also use the auxiliary pump to add live hydraulic operation to the 3pt.[/list:eek::3648088ba5]If you go with scenario two you have lots of options and the add-on capabilties are really limited only by your pocket book.

    TOH
 
Or option 3 would be to buy a 600 Series or
newer tractor that came from the factory
with live hydraulics and bolt a standard one
or two spool Ford style remote valve onto
the top cover with 4 bolts.
Done.
 
Option 4 - depending on your hydraulic needs, you could go electric over hydraulic with a 12v motor driven pump. That would work well for a hyd toplink or even tapping into the stock pump for electric override of the lift with the clutch disengaged......
 
I did this on my 2600 Ford as well as on my old 9N with very good success. Flexability is the name of the game.
 
(quoted from post at 01:24:44 04/20/16) Hi everyone. How hard would it be to ad a hydraulic remote on to an 8n? I have a a couple attachments that need a single remote. Has anyone done it? Any ideas and is it worth it?
Click to expand...

Well as long as we are being silly here is Option 5. It is a variation on Option 1, costs a lot less than Option 3, and you don't need to chain down the lift arms. You can install an inexpensive generic directional control valve with as many SA/DA spools as you want wherever you want and you can manually switch between the 3pt control and the remote spools without ever leaving the operator's seat. You are still stuck at the 3 GPM flow rate however.

[u:c3661b8a35]N-series Top Cover Modification[/u:c3661b8a35]

TOH
 
SILLY?!

How about option 6 - get an old bicycle frame and weld a sprocket to a hyd pump, swing your tractor's seat to the right 45* and mount the bike frame so you could pedal the pump whenever you needed it! If you went with a 21 speed you could vary your pump's gph delivery too. I'm sure I have a schematic with measurements somewhere around here......

:)

I know, some of you are wondering how you'd work the clutch with your feet on the pedals, extend the cable hand brake from the bike handlebar down to the clutch pedal; just like a motorcycle.
 
At least Harry ferguson was on the ball. he threaded and plugged the top cover so you could add a valve.

Kirk
100_4048_zpszv4z9s8p.jpg
 
How did that work tho was it just the same as tapping off the test port where you had to chain the arms down?
 
I never used the one off the TO-30, still laying out in the barn. I assume same principle, chain the arms or hold them down by other means to divert the fluid.

Kirk
100_4053_zpsoneqfuxk.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:30:03 04/20/16) How did that work tho was it just the same as tapping off the test port where you had to chain the arms down?
Click to expand...

Yes - just a tee tap into the lift circuit at the top rather the bottom. Still have to chain down the lift.

TOH
 
I ran my loader off that port on my TO30 and since I didn't want to chain the arms down I ran a hyd valve to turn the flow to the loader spool valve on & off. Found out once the lift arms went all the way up my flow dropped too low to move the loader very quickly.

Rather than chain the arms all the way down, I made a limiter chain that stopped them an inch or two before full lift, that way the pump would keep going. Not pretty, not elegant, not efficient, but it was effective.

I much prefer the front stinger pump approach.
 
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