Jubilee hydraulics

Lynn Patrick

Well-known Member
You all helped me so much w/my son's 9N hydraulic problems, now I am working on my Jube. The 3 point does nothing. I primed the pump w/compressed air (I had the plug out of the top first until oil filled the pump, then put the plug back & pressurized it again several times). The proofmeter works, so I assume the pump is turning.
I should say this tractor sat for 2-3 years & had much water in the hydraulic area when I got it.
What do I do next?
Thanks,
Lynn
 
Does it still have the original vane pump or
has it been changed out to the later piston
pump?
I've never messed with the vane pumps but
will assume they bleed about the same as a
piston type.
Also, explain how you used air pressure to
bleed it.
On a piston pump I run the engine at a low
idle. Crack the plug and let it spit and
sputter till the air/bubbles go away and you
get mostly a clear flow of oil. Then tighten
the plug and try the lift. Sometimes it
takes a couple of trys to get it to prime.
Sometimes you can use air pressure on the
oil fill plug to assist the pump in picking
up the oil - ie, prime. Wrap a rag around
your air nozzle to get a better seal but
don't make it too tight or apply too much
pressure as you can blow a seal that way.
Maybe that's what you did?
If you can not get it to prime then I would
investigate the Orings on the hyd manifold.
Bolts may be loose or Orings bad. The later
models used a square cut oring on both ends
of the manufold. I have found that using OEM
type Orings from the dealer are worth the
money.
Also, if you do need to remove the manifold
for any reason test it while you have it
off. Seal off one end of the suction side
(bigger tube), use soapy water and test it
for leaks. If you have any rusty spots or
pin holes where it can suck air it will not
prime or won't stay primed. Also check to
make sure the manifold hasn't been mashed or
bent so it isn't sealing on the ends.
They can be a pia to bleed sometimes.
I have gotten frustrated before and just
took the tractor out for a drive just to
cool my jets. Low and behold it started
working after that.
Lastly, it could be the pump is shot. But
try all the things I mentioned before you
assume the worst.
 
UD, thanks for the interest. I'll try to answer your questions, although I am not home for a couple days.
The pump is a round one without the adjustable flow control valve shown in the owner's manual. Does that make it a piston pump?
I blew air into the dipstick hole w/my air compressor (as shown in a video someone posted a while back!) so it is possible I used too much pressure. Don't know how to gauge how much I used... I added air until oil came out the plug on top, then added air again w/plug in place.
Will check more when I get home.
 
I need to fess up and tell you my ignorance
about NAAs.
I've worked on Ns, Hundreds and Thousands
but never an NAA. I mostly know the
Thousands.
I do know some? vane pumps had an adjustment
for the flow but haven't heard of that
feature on a piston pump. Maybe they did.
The difference between a vane pump and
piston pump is pretty obvious - square vs
round - so I'll trust your judgement there.
I doubt you hurt anything with your
pressurizing. You won't hurt the pump that
way but could blow out a seal between the
hyd reservoir and rear end. Of course if you
run 134D in both chambers it won't matter.
Are you getting a good, clear oil flow when
you crack the plug? No or few bubbles? I
keep going back to a pin hole in the suction
line or loose, ill mated manifold. It
doesn't take much air to make them not
prime.
Another thing is to check the suction inlet
to insure it is not plugged.
Till 1976 Ford only used a wire screen on
the suction inlet and I have seen them
rather plugged up in later tractors.
If you do have to pull the pump for one
reason or another it would pay to blow the
suction line out. Blow it out good then pour
lacquer thinner in the line and let it soak
for a bit. Then blow it into the rear end
with air. Repeat.
Does a pretty good job of cleaning that
screen.
 

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