9n 2n 8n Prevent Damage To Inner Tube

I'm sure everyone here has experienced a flat tire and really dreaded it when it came to the rear tire's inner tube needing replaced since they can be quite labor intensive if they haven't been removed for a long time.

We have an old fashioned pneumatic tire machine but not an easy job having to lift a rear tire up on it and then rotate it while breaking the bead and so I figured out if we laid the tire on the ground, put 1 or 2 2x6's from the ground up to bead of the tire, drive the truck up on the 2x6's, and then using pry-bars and a sledge that we can break the bead down but wow... the tire we're working on right now was bonded to the rim and so had one heck of a time breaking it down.

Well after we got it broke down and ONLY pealed the bead FROM ONE SIDE up off of the rim, we reached inside and could feel all of the crusty rust. This rim must have been this way for quite some time since we could feel a piece of rubber that had been placed around the inside of it to help prevent the inner tube from getting damaged by the prickly rust.

My question, what all ways are there that can be used to prevent the inner tube from getting a hole in it from the rust. I know we can reach in to scrape the rust as much as possible to minimize it effects on a tube, and can also use part of the old inner tube to lay down inside the rim to help cover up the rust thus give the new inner tube something smooth to press against but that can be a bit difficult to place in the new inner tube without disturbing the initial piece of tube. Has anyone gone in a blued (gasket maker) the inside of the rim? We have used it on rims around where the bead seats itself for radial tires to seal but never tried using it this way not to mention how many tubes of gasket maker would be needed to cover such a large rim that is a 28"

I have been breaking down my tractor tires
by driving on them with the pickup for
years.
It works good.
As for your tubes if you have a lot of rust
on the rims the best way is to just remove
the tire and repaint the rims.
Use a needle scaler to bust off all the
heavy rust and then sand blast them. Then
prime and paint. Will make them last for a
long time.

This might be a good job for a POR-20 style urethane rust proofer, as they are heavy and encapsulate the rust, leaving a very hard and smooth surface which is less likely to abrade the tube.

ive put a heavy wire wheel on a grinder and made the rim as smooth as possible, a sand blaster would do this faster, then used a good thick paint on the inside of the rim put on with a brush to build up a smooth coat, let it dry several days before putting the tire and tube on, but its cheaper than a new rim, if your rim is too thin its time for a new 6 loop rim, there not that bad to buy if the rim is rough you will have constant flats usually replacing the tube each time

(quoted from post at 06:02:21 04/18/16) I have been breaking down my tractor tires
by driving on them with the pickup for
years.
It works good.
As for your tubes if you have a lot of rust
on the rims the best way is to just remove
the tire and repaint the rims.
Use a needle scaler to bust off all the
heavy rust and then sand blast them. Then
prime and paint. Will make them last for a
long time.

Click to expand...

Definitely agree with you that the best way is to completely remove the tire from the rim, clean all of the rust off, and then prime and paint...we did this on our 9N's rear rims and was quite a physically demanding job.

So now that our 8N needs the rims prepped for an inner tube, we wanted to find an easier way than having to go through the work of doing it the other way.

(quoted from post at 06:46:05 04/18/16) ive put a heavy wire wheel on a grinder and made the rim as smooth as possible, a sand blaster would do this faster, then used a good thick paint on the inside of the rim put on with a brush to build up a smooth coat, let it dry several days before putting the tire and tube on, but its cheaper than a new rim, if your rim is too thin its time for a new 6 loop rim, there not that bad to buy if the rim is rough you will have constant flats usually replacing the tube each time

Click to expand...

Yep...a knotted wire-wheel is one of the things we used to do the rims on our 9N. After already having to do it on our 9N's rear rims, we need an easier way and so in this case we have only pealed off the bead from one side of the rim leaving the other bead seated to the other side of the rim, and now have access through just one side of the tire to get inside the rim.

(quoted from post at 06:24:35 04/18/16) This might be a good job for a POR-20 style urethane rust proofer, as they are heavy and encapsulate the rust, leaving a very hard and smooth surface which is less likely to abrade the tube.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Will have to look into the POR-20. Do you know if it can be brushed on? With having only one side of the tire pealed off of the rim, we won't have the ability to get it on the inside of the rim if it is only sold in a spray-type form.

Hi. I always take the tire off of the rim, clean the rim the best I can, and if there are no holes I
paint the rim either with rust paint, box liner spray, and have also used rubberized rocker guard
spray. Then I buy a new tube and then I take as much of the rust off of the old tube as I can, then I
cut the valve stem hole out of the old tube, and cut around the top of the old tube, and put the new
tube in the old one. I then sew around the cut part with upholstery thread so now I have a double tube
and the old tube should protect the new tube for years to come. It is time consuming but I do not
mind.

(quoted from post at 12:38:54 04/18/16) Hi. I always take the tire off of the rim, clean the rim the best I can, and if there are no holes I
paint the rim either with rust paint, box liner spray, and have also used rubberized rocker guard
spray. Then I buy a new tube and then I take as much of the rust off of the old tube as I can, then I
cut the valve stem hole out of the old tube, and cut around the top of the old tube, and put the new
tube in the old one. I then sew around the cut part with upholstery thread so now I have a double tube
and the old tube should protect the new tube for years to come. It is time consuming but I do not
mind.

Click to expand...

clever idea there

It can be brushed on, but I wouldn't
waste my time trying to not take off
both sides, how will you clean the rust
off and won't be able to on that bead.
Simply take the tire off and inspect it
and know what you have

"K-n-L Country Farms,

For rust cleanup I use a 5" bench grinder wire wheel on a Makita grinder. They last a lot longer than cup brushes for one hand-held grinders.

You get have them de-rusting the hardest when the wheel is at right angles to the work but you get a softer take with the sides edges of the brush

Flexible pad backed #36 sanding disks are good as well but the wire gets more into the depressions obviously.

The most tube threatening aspect of mine was a seam that rust had caused to open up a little.
I chipped away inside those seams on mine, blowing out the bits with compressed air. After doing the above de=rusting, I brush-primered the seam getting lots to flow inside that gaping seam, then some blue marine brush-on.
Finally, after lots of time for the seam to dry, I peened the whole sharp edge down inch by inch, its edge curled toward the rim. Most of the heavy rust scale stuck worse to my tubes were down the center from those seams.

I could have used that Gorrilla tape over that seam, but I'm probably O.K. for 20 years anyway.

I sealed all my disk mount holes in the box channel and sealed the the valve stem holes to keep water out in the future.

Trying to clean a rusty hat rim and coat the rim after cleaning it with the tire still attached to the bead on one side.That would be like overhauling an engine through the exhaust pipe.Break the tire down and take it off the rim so you can access the inside of the rim.Fibreglass resin and cloth if it has some holes would also work good to coat and seal up the inside of the rusty rim with.Then coat with bed liner or paint if you want.

Agreed. He's halfway there already.
Take the tire off the rim completely and then you can get at it.

I have replaced dozens of tires on these, and many rims, especially these darn hat rims. The only
way to do it and make it last is to replace the rim. I have seen them wrapped in duck tape, guys
have welded strips in them, ground on them, etc. If the rim is rusted badly where the tire sits on
the rim, replace the rim. Why you ask, the tire will slip on the rim when you are working the
machine hard. I have seen guys use sheet rock compound to those rusted out hat rims trying to fill
in. It seemed like the owners would get tired of fooling around and call me after they destroyd 1
or more tubes. Always was a total pain in the behind fixing the messes that were created by
someone trying to save a buck. How do I know this? I spent 22+ years owning a farm tire business.
Do yourself a favor, replace the rim. I'm just trying to save you a lot more work in a year or 2.

(quoted from post at 10:32:58 04/18/16) Trying to clean a rusty hat rim and coat the rim after cleaning it with the tire still attached to the bead on one side.That would be like overhauling an engine through the exhaust pipe.Break the tire down and take it off the rim so you can access the inside of the rim.Fibreglass resin and cloth if it has some holes would also work good to coat and seal up the inside of the rusty rim with.Then coat with bed liner or paint if you want.

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Well as I already said, it has already been A LOT of work to just break down one side of the tire which was extremely bonded to the rim and then get it pealed up over the rim, and so don't want to break down the other side. We just need ideas of how to fix this rim based on the way which we have it in its current position.

Many already know but for those who forgot or didn't know, I am a recovering paraplegic who is often limited to only working from a wheel chair and so these large tractors tires can be challenging for the most physically abled let alone trying to use pry bars, sledges, etc from a wheel chair. I was told I would be permanently paralyzed from the waist down, but over time I have regained a little control of my legs and I thank God it's just enough that I can control the clutch and break on a tractor

"Trying to clean a rusty hat rim and coat the rim after cleaning it with the tire still attached to the bead on one side.That would be like overhauling an engine through the exhaust pipe"

It actually isn't as hard as you're making out to be....once the bead is pealed up off of the rim, with the tire laying flat on the floor the bead can be lifted up and held in place at least 6 inches from the rim. Can possibly get to 8 inches but 6 inches is already giving us a pretty decent amount of clearance to reach in with scrapers, drills, air tools, etc to clean enough rust that it can then be determined what to use to cover or coat it.

[i:654c4848f0]" We just need ideas of how to fix this
rim based on the way which we have it in its
current position."[/i:654c4848f0]

You have been given a bunch of suggestions
on how to fix that rim.
Most of them included taking the tire the
rest of the way off the rim.
I hate to think what your forearms are going
to look like after reaching in between the
rim and tire to do anything useful in there.
They'll be all masticated and abraded for
sure.
But it's your rim and your forearms...

(quoted from post at 05:39:44 04/19/16) [i:d862cd3f19]" We just need ideas of how to fix this
rim based on the way which we have it in its
current position."[/i:d862cd3f19]

You have been given a bunch of suggestions
on how to fix that rim.
Most of them included taking the tire the
rest of the way off the rim.
I hate to think what your forearms are going
to look like after reaching in between the
rim and tire to do anything useful in there.
They'll be all masticated and abraded for
sure.
But it's your rim and your forearms...

Click to expand...

As we already provided, we just needed information on how to prep the rim based on how we have it in it's current condition. We obviously know it is easier to work on a rim if the tire is off but have mentioned how it was already extremely difficult removing one side of the tire since it was bonded to the rim not to mention having to do the other side as well and doing it from a wheel chair.

"I hate to think what your forearms are going
to look like after reaching in between the
rim and tire to do anything useful in there."

There is at least 6 inches of space (can possibly get even 8 inches) between the tire and rim which gives a pretty decent amount of space to get in a variety of tools in their. Have already easily got pneumatic hand tools in which can be easily maneuvered even being inside the tire.

Will have more forearm fatigue trying to break the other bead than having to use air powered tools to get inside to clean the rim.

Not trying to be crude or somehow ungrateful. Just need others to understand that their suggestions wouldn't be adequate in our individual circumstances ...try wheeling a chair around the yard all day on unlevel ground and then break down a large tractor tire.

UD, i thank u for the Beavis and Butthead moment


huh-huh, huh-huh, huh-huh. he said masticated.