Part numbers/ How to test coil

Does anyone know the part numbers for points, condenser and rotor for a 12 volt front mounted dist. from NAPA for a 2 N Ford Tractor? Looks like I may need them. Also, how do I test the coil to see if it is ok. Thanks

NAPA Ford Tractor Part Numbers:

Front Mount distributor...

Points:
NAPA #CS35
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X (Premium)

Condensor:
NAPA #FA200
Standard Ignition #FD-71

Rotor:
NAPA #FA300
Standard Ignition #FD-104

Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA350
Standard Ignition #FD-126

OEM style ballast resistor ICR40


Coil problems are difficult to diagnose. For starters, round coils are pretty robust & square coils aren?t (because of the difference in insulation used), but neither one will hold up to a poorly done 12v conversion that allows too much current to the coil or leaving the key on (see tip # 38). Too much current creates heat which melts the insulation. Insufficient resistance in a 12v conversion will do the same thing. Rarely do coils just ?go bad.?

There are a few ways to see if a coil is bad, but it?s not possible to determine if a coil is good w/o some expensive testing equipment. If you detect a dead short or high resistance in the coil w/ an ohm meter, it?s bad. If it?s cracked, it?s bad. If a sidemount coil w/ battery voltage to the primary will not jump a ?? gap from the secondary wire to the block, it?s bad. But, here is the hard part: even if you do not detect a short, even if it will produce a spark, even if it?s not cracked, that doesn?t mean the coil will work when it?s hot & under a load. So, it?s a process of elimination. If the tractor starts & runs fine for 30 minutes or an hour then cuts off & refuses to re-start, and you checked for spark at the plugs & it had no spark at all, AND you have the correct voltage at the coil that?s a good sign that you have a bad coil. Let it cool off, restart it & if you have a good spark, odds are it?s a bad coil. But, even then, you might end up w/ a spare coil on the shelf!

Bottom line.......coils do go bad, but I'll venture a guess that 75% of new N coils sold today are sold to folks who do not understand how to diagnose a poor spark problem or how a coil works. So, for those who don?t know any better, in a no spark situation the first suspect is usually the coil??and, more often than not, it isn?t the problem.
Or as one regular around here humorously suggested: "Well, it is like this...I don't know or really understand what that black thing does & I am suspicious of the unknown, so I think the problem is the black thing."

So, what problem are you having that leads you to suspect a coil failure?

You say it's 12v; do you have a 12v coil? Do you have the OEM ballast resistor installed? Any other resistors?

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Points,condenser,and rotor are the same for both 6and12 volt.

I was having some problems with the 2N under a load and noticed a leaking governor and thought it was that but suggestion with this site said to change out the points, condenser, etc. and I was just checking about the coil in case it might be that as well (just trying to cover all the bases). I didn't have time to go across town to get parts before I went to the farm so I took dist off and cleaned points, rotor, I did have a new OEM and replaced it as the one on the tractor was really rusty and also had a new ignition and changed it out as well (I had been wanting to change it out anyway as the key was loose and may not have been making contact some of the time - I saw a couple of times running through the pasture - bouncing - it would stop and noticed the key had moved and I would turn it back on and it would start back up). Cleaned the posts and cables, cleaned plugs, checked spark plug wires, anything I could think of and put it all back together and it started up well and ran good, under the shredder load it didn't miss a beat - problem solved. I just needed to know the part numbers so the next time I go across town to the only NAPA I can pick up new tune up material. I was just wondering if there was an easy way to check the coil. As said earlier I got it from my mother-in-law as it was sitting in their barn and hadn't had much work done to it in several years. It is just taking me some time to get it back and going. All the help here has helped me. Now I have a leaking governor - what do I do about it. It just drips off and on. Thanks.

" what do I do about it. It just drips off and on."

If the governor is leaking oil, the housing is probably warped from being over tightened. Pull the governor off and remove the small set screw that you?ll find on the face next to the gear. Grasp the gear and pull the guts out of the housing and set them aside. Lay a metal rule across the cover & see if it is warped. If it is, get a fresh sheet of 100 grit sandpaper, lay it on a flat, true piece of steel, and lap the face of the housing until it?s flat again. Do not get carried away w/ the sanding! You can take too much off. Reassemble and put her back on with one fresh gasket. Permatex Ultra Grey works well as does Copper Coat. Some folks have had good luck w/o any gasket; they use black RTV silicone glue. After both surfaces have been cleaned of oil and dirt put a good round bead of RTV all the way around the governor housing and then bolt it on. Allow about 24 hours to completely cure. And, do not forget to put the short bolt back on top. (tip # 1)
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