Dad's 2N Distributor Problems

Well got Dad's 2N all back together, with the rebuilt carb on it. And had a very intermittent fire.

At first I thought it was the carb rebuild, so I took it back apart and check everything in it, all seemed to be working well.

Checked for spark, and had an intermittent spark issue. Since we drove the tractor in the barn I didn't think it would be the distributor, but we had a miss before, and I had bought new points to put in it, so I pulled the distributor...

Here is what I found.

20160210_174103_zpsfbgnk9oi.jpg


There was no stud for the Coil Spring, just a wire curled up in its place, and it was touching the housing. And the last person to put points in it, didn't put the cotter pin in place, so the points were misaligned as well.

I'm thinking that I need a new breaker plate, but would like to get some suggestions as well, not to mention when I tried to remove the condenser the screw twisted off in the housing..., so that has to be drilled and easy out to remove it.

Suggestions?
 
(quoted from post at 21:28:55 02/10/16) Well got Dad's 2N all back together, with the rebuilt carb on it. And had a very intermittent fire.

At first I thought it was the carb rebuild, so I took it back apart and check everything in it, all seemed to be working well.

Checked for spark, and had an intermittent spark issue. Since we drove the tractor in the barn I didn't think it would be the distributor, but we had a miss before, and I had bought new points to put in it, so I pulled the distributor...

Here is what I found.

20160210_174103_zpsfbgnk9oi.jpg


There was no stud for the Coil Spring, just a wire curled up in its place, and it was touching the housing. And the last person to put points in it, didn't put the cotter pin in place, so the points were misaligned as well.

I'm thinking that I need a new breaker plate, but would like to get some suggestions as well, not to mention when I tried to remove the condenser the screw twisted off in the housing..., so that has to be drilled and easy out to remove it.

Suggestions?
alled"farmerization" & it did make it work for awhile. Do you want to 'make it work" or put it back to factory stock? Decide that & you will know how to go into the future.
 
I don't think he wants to go with electronic ignition.

I know we don't want to leave it 'farmerized'.

But we want it back to where it will run properly, its 12v now, so Factory Original isn't really what I want.

I guess first things first, need to see if I can get that screw out.
 
This isn't the best picture, but see the plastic anchor at the top
where the brass screw is that touches the coil pig tail spring?
A reasonable facsimile of that plastic insert can be bought at
the local hardware or big box store. Hillman part # 881189
A socket head allen screw works reasonably well to replace
the concave brass screw as well. Brass if you can find it.

32791.jpg
 
Was able to go tonight and get another distributor from one of our parts sources, complete with coil and correct breaker plate with the insert for $15, so I won't have to try and get that broken screw out of the housing.
 
Replaced the distributor, well made one good one out of two. New Points and Condenser, remembered to rub the clear off the new points, and still nothing... but I had nice blue spark every time. Which is an improvement.

Decided to take the rebuild kit out of the carb I had built last winter, and put it in the one that was on the tractor, only problem I have with that carb is the seat for the idle adj. was stripped flat by the PO, who said he couldn't get it out, so he ran a small drill bit through it, which enlarged it.... so my adj. is in all the way, and is still a bit too much.

Any ideas on how to get that seat out now Royse? would it be safe to drill it a tad bigger to get an easy out in there? Or do they make an easy out small enough to fit through the center? Hate to completely ruin it, it does run with that carb back together and on there with the new kit installed. Even starts w/o choke now. Its a MS 33 carb.

Still not sure what was wrong with the other carb, used all the same parts in the switch over back to the old one, unless sitting on the shelf a piece of something made its way into something and blocked it off, I soaked it all down and blew through all the passages again, everything seems clear, but who knows what I blew out of it when I put the air to it.

At any rate, its running, not as smooth as I would like, but its running better than when we pulled it in, and it looks a hell of a lot better.
 
If I zoom in on that distributor photo, looks like a fine fiber of some sort draped across the inside of the distributor. If that was a strand of wire from the one that was used to connect the coil it appears to be something that would short out the points and cause no sparks. First thing I'd do with any part that looks like that one is clean it until it looks like new. If the top bushing is loose, that's another reason to go ahead and replace the top plate. Some of the replacement plates aren't that great. Buy from a reputable dealer and maybe it will be better quality. Don't bother with an easy-out. One that small is just going to snap off in there. Drill out the old condenser screw with the same size bit used to tap new threads. Run a tap in the hole to make new threads, or use a self-tapping screw to install the new condenser.
KL
 
"Any ideas on how to get that seat out now Royse?"

Let's make sure we're thinking about the same part before
I go off on some assumption and give you bad advice.

Are you talking about the brass idle jet that goes in the hole
circled below? If so, yes, I have some ideas on how to get it out.

Drilling it would be pretty much a last resort for me, although
I have done it. If you catch the threads with the drill, the carb
top is pretty much toast. Good ones can be hard to come by.

When I have to drill one out, I don't use an easy out.
I set them in a jig, use a left handed drill bit in my drill press
and hope it comes out from the heat of drilling.
If it doesn't, I have drilled it so close to the threads that the
correct sized tap will chase the remaining brass out of the
threads leaving the originals where they were.

There are less risky ways though. A little heat can go a long way.

32843.jpg
 

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