rewire problem?

Please go easy on me, I'm new to this arena. I posted a while back and decided to rewire. Bought a new conversion kit with wires and alternator. Not sure if I did correctly so please help. Once complete, I turned key and it tried to start but didn't. I noticed that if I held the key hard right it would continue to try and run but as soon as I let go nothing.
a214238.jpg

a214239.jpg
 
Do a google search for "JMOR Wiring Diagram" that will get you on the right track.

And it would help if we knew exactly what you are wiring up, I'm guessing its an 8N but not sure.
 
Most 9N/2N's have a 2 wire Key Switch, sometimes replaced by a Toggle Switch.

And the Solenoid should be a mechanical solenoid mounded under your battery box with 2 terminals on it.

The terminal closest to the starter goes to the starter with a heavy cable.

The Other terminal goes to the positive terminal on the battery.

The battery side terminal should send a wire to the bottom of the 3 terminals on the OEM resistor.

One wire should leave that bottom post and go to one side of your key switch, the other side of the key switch should go to the right hand side of the OEM resistor. The left side of the OEM resistor should go to the inline ballast resistor if you have one, an d the opposite end of that ballast resistor should go to the coil.

Alternator wire will go to the + terminal on the ammenter, - terminal on ammenter goes back to that bottom post on the OEM resistor.

And you can send a wire from that bottom post of the OEM resistor to your light switch, or you can take the light switch off of the right hand side of the OEM resistor depending on whether you want lights only when the key is on, or anytime.
 
Having different parts, like a 3 post key switch and a different style solenoid will make the diagram different, but without knowing exactly what those parts are, its hard to help with a correct diagram.
 
Basically to run, you need with the key on, 12v running through the resistors to the coil.

And then when the key goes to start you need to keep that 12v, while sending voltage to the solenoid to spin the starter and disengage when the key falls back to the run position.

from your pic and drawing I am assuming you are not using the push button for the starter that is in front of your shifter on the transmission?

You can unhook lights, gauges and alternator wires until you get it running, and then add them in one at a time once you get it running.
 
Another tip is to use some heat shrink on the connections, over the plastic part you crimp, so that it doesn't slide down with age and allow for contact with other metal parts.
 
Hey thanks for the feedback. Would I be
better off getting a new 2 post ignition
switch and a new starter solenoid so I
know that they are for the tractor
instead of trying to guess at what I
have? Especially since I went ahead and
rewired. Also no I'm not using the push button starter. I'm new to the tractor seen and I fall into the catagory of knowing nothing but willing to learn. Thanks again
 
(quoted from post at 17:45:48 02/08/16) Please go easy on me, I'm new to this arena. I posted a while back and decided to rewire. Bought a new conversion kit with wires and alternator. Not sure if I did correctly so please help. Once complete, I turned key and it tried to start but didn't. I noticed that if I held the key hard right it would continue to try and run but as soon as I let go nothing.
a214238.jpg

a214239.jpg
ne green wire needs to be removed & tossed away. That is the green wire connecting the center ign sw terminal to upper right of the terminal block. Next move the green wire from lower center of terminal block to the upper right of terminal block.
Quickest way to get you going, even if not what I would do starting from scratch.
 
Will do thanks. If you would like to
explain how you would have done it, I'm
listening cuz I would rather do it right. Thanks again
 
(quoted from post at 20:32:40 02/08/16) Will do thanks. If you would like to
explain how you would have done it, I'm
listening cuz I would rather do it right. Thanks again
or safety of yourself & others that might operate tractor, I would change the solenoid type such that I could then use the neutral safety start switch. I would rewire the ammeter such that would be 'net' reading, meaning that it would show negative for a load drain on battery & positive when alternator is putting more into the battery than loads are draining out vs your present 'reads alt charge only' wiring. Wouldn't have that Ign Sw to Battery wire, but rather utilize the bottom terminal on the terminal block as Ford did originally. Optionally, you could get rid of the white resistor (simplified wiring a little & gets rid of two connections) if you wish to spend money for a new 12v coil instead of using your 6v coil. In short, like this:
 
A new coil came with the conversion kit
so I'm assuming it is a 12v. So with
this setup I need to get a neutral start
switch,2 post ignition switch and what
type of solenoid? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 21:22:54 02/08/16) A new coil came with the conversion kit
so I'm assuming it is a 12v. So with
this setup I need to get a neutral start
switch,2 post ignition switch and what
type of solenoid? Thanks
o you not have the big push button near the gear shift lever?
 
(quoted from post at 21:22:54 02/08/16) A new coil came with the conversion kit
so I'm assuming it is a 12v. So with
this setup I need to get a neutral start
switch,2 post ignition switch and what
type of solenoid? Thanks
o you not have the big push button near the gear shift lever? Three forward gears or four?
 
3 forward 1 reverse. On the other side
there is 1 round and 1 square object and
all have been heavily painted. Even the
cut wires. The push button does move.
 
(quoted from post at 21:57:38 02/08/16) 3 forward 1 reverse. On the other side
there is 1 round and 1 square object and
all have been heavily painted. Even the
cut wires. The push button does move.
orry, but that changes everything. 2N/9N, not 8n. Solenoid being present means very modified & you may or may not want to do everything needed to get back to near factory stock (time & money). Unless I really wanted to do all that, I would go with the green wire changes and live with it.
 
Ok thanks for your honesty. Now how
about rebuilding the carb. Basic or
extensive kit. Carb just drained my tank
 
(quoted from post at 22:14:46 02/08/16) Ok thanks for your honesty. Now how
about rebuilding the carb. Basic or
extensive kit. Carb just drained my tank
f you are going to expend the time, do full kit and cleaning of every tiny passage it absolutely the key to success!
 
(quoted from post at 22:24:26 02/08/16)
(quoted from post at 22:14:46 02/08/16) Ok thanks for your honesty. Now how
about rebuilding the carb. Basic or
extensive kit. Carb just drained my tank
f you are going to expend the time, do full kit and cleaning of every tiny passage it absolutely the key to success!

And always turn the gas off with the valve under the tank by the sediment bowl when you're done for the day.
 
(quoted from post at 15:16:01 02/09/16) Thanks
ust for the record, since it appears that you have a 9N/2N, this is what it should look like. The second cartoon shows the start button, rocker, rod and mechanical start switch which would all need to work such that you could have neutral safety start function & get rid of your solenoid.

 
(quoted from post at 18:04:39 02/09/16) How do I find out if those are in
working order? Thanks for all your
assistance
ou could hook up battery to on terminal and a load (maybe a headlight or other) to the other terminal & push button to see if you get light. Or if cables to solenoid are long enough to reach, just move them to the mechanical actuated switch & see if starter operates.
 
Just wanted to thank all that responded as I have been successfull in rewiring as well as new points alternator and hoses!
 
(quoted from post at 17:13:04 02/29/16) Just wanted to thank all that responded as I have been successfull in rewiring as well as new points alternator and hoses!
xcellent! hope helpful.
 

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