8n struggling, missing, backfiring; hoping for some advice..

8n ('54) starts and sounds fine in idle, responds well to throttle.
But once I drive it, and it needs some power, it starts to miss and backfires and totally sapped of power.

Problem started last spring while running with brush hog. I could run for maybe 20 minutes then it would start to backfire and lose power. If I stopped, let it cool, I could start it back up and have normal operation for another 10 minutes or so until it got hot again. Since then the problem is worse and it doesn't take long or much load for the sputtering to start.

Yesterday we replaced the plugs, that didn't help. We've tried adjusting carb to no avail. The distributor points seem fine, good spark there, these were replaced several years ago. The distributor coil has been mentioned as a potential problem. The governor? Worse?

Any suggestions, links, advice is much appreciated.
 
Hook up a jumper wire from the battery to
the coil and then go run it for half an
hour.
If that solves the problem you will know it
was your key switch.
They are known for giving problems such as
you describe.
 
#1 no such thing as a 1954 8N last year was 1952.
Does it have a flat head engine?? Does it have a distributor behind the radiator or does it sit on the side of the engine??
Is your spark a good blue/white and jump a 1/4 inch gap both when you start it and when it starts to mess up?? Is the coil the square one that sit on top of the distributor if it is, is it hot to the touch when it messes up??
By the way in 1954 they made the NAA
If you have a front mount distributor it is a 1948 to early 1950 and if you have the side mount you have a late 1950 to 1952
Does choking it hurt or help?? When was the last time you serviced the air cleaner and dumped the mud and water out of it and put back in good oil
 
I would suggest checking the coil, condenser(both of these can short out) giving the symptoms that you represent. Also check the plugs and their gap(.025). Should be using Autolite #437. As someone else sed run a jumper wire right from the battery to the cil to bypass any wiring problems. A volt meter is one of your best friends here as well as an in line spark tester. The plug wires shud also be checked to make sure they are copper wires and not the resistor plug wires that so many put in.
 
Ryan...........keep yer itchy-twitchy fingers off'n them handy-dandy carb tweek'ums. They aintchur problem. As described ittschur weird 4-nipple squarecan front mount COIL. Usually it takes about 1-hr fer the internal insulative TAR to melt. Then after settin' awhile, it will start rite up and run fer about 15-mins and MELT again. While it could be yer condenser, thats usually a 5-min go-bad time frame. While points (0.015) kenn be a suspect, they are a long-time go-bad suspect. Ennytime you have engine run issues, new AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025 are always first thing to change. Me? Based upon yer description, I'd stick the corner of $1-bill (cheap) between the points and pull. That will polish the INVISIBLE crud away and give you HOTTER sparkies. ......HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
You are really cheap, fella!
John,PA I usually charge 3MIL(Lirry) for info. Barelona. OR free pizza. :) Small aircraft TUGS!
 
(quoted from post at 11:33:00 02/07/16) Hook up a jumper wire from the battery to
the coil and then go run it for half an
hour.
If that solves the problem you will know it
was your key switch.
They are known for giving problems such as
you describe.

Thank you for suggestion. I'll give this a try.
 
Sorry about mistake. I have a 1952 Operator's Manual and the distributor is on the side, on top of governor, and the coil is mounted on the front. Thanks for suggestion about intake. I'll make an inspection of that.
 
So then you have the 5 nipple distributor cap so you need to make sure you have a good blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap for the center wire and all 4 plug wires
 
all else fails check your ground at dist.Happened to my 50 side mount 8 yrs ago.cleaned
bolt & area put star washer on bolt been fine ever since...
 

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