About to replace manifold gasket, any tips before I start?

Big Trees

Member
I'm going to replace the manifold gaskets today when the gaskets get here and I can't find any info about dong the job in the F0-4 manual. I've looked online and have found that I should reinstall some studs and brass nuts and that I might have a stripped bolt or may need to drain antifreeze before I start.

Can anybody please tell me if there's anything else I should look for or be careful of?

Looking at the manifold I see no nuts, only bolt/stud heads so I'm assuming I'll need to put nuts on, I'm just not sure how to do it.

I couldn't find any old threads on here explaining how to do it. If anybody knows of a old thread can you please post a link to it?

I'd appreciate any and all help. Thank you all in advance.
 
In [b:ccd07868c8]this[/b:ccd07868c8] thread I posted a picture of a manifold
held on by bolts. It shouldn't have bolts, there should be studs
in the block and brass nuts on the outside where these bolt
heads are visible. Taking these bolts out lets antifreeze out.
It's also a PITA to hold the gasket in place. With studs you
can slide the gasket on the studs then slip the manifold on.

I clean the threads, test fit the studs, take them back out and
apply sealer to the threads and put them back in hand tight
plus about 1/8 turn. Brass nuts are torqued to 27 ft/lbs IIRC.

Bruce(VA) has a tip for using a floor jack on the exhaust pipe
as well as how to put the clamp on. It only goes one way up.

Obviously both surfaces must be clean. Check for pitting,
especially around #4 exhaust port on the block and manifold.
Bruce also has pictures/instructions for fixing that if needed.
 
(quoted from post at 08:20:34 02/06/16) In [b:4495ae927e]this[/b:4495ae927e] thread I posted a picture of a manifold
held on by bolts. It shouldn't have bolts, there should be studs
in the block and brass nuts on the outside where these bolt
heads are visible. Taking these bolts out lets antifreeze out.
It's also a PITA to hold the gasket in place. With studs you
can slide the gasket on the studs then slip the manifold on.

I clean the threads, test fit the studs, take them back out and
apply sealer to the threads and put them back in hand tight
plus about 1/8 turn. Brass nuts are torqued to 27 ft/lbs IIRC.

Bruce(VA) has a tip for using a floor jack on the exhaust pipe
as well as how to put the clamp on. It only goes one way up.

Obviously both surfaces must be clean. Check for pitting,
especially around #4 exhaust port on the block and manifold.
Bruce also has pictures/instructions for fixing that if needed.

Royse, thank you very much for the nice write up.

I read your thread about that manifold when you first posted it and reread it this morning and it has helped. My question was mainly about the studs but your explanation helped me realize that the studs you all are speaking of has no head on it. I was wondering how I'd get it installed but still be able to put the nut on the outside but now I'm realizing that the stud has no head on it and will screw into the block and then the nut will go on the outside. Makes sense to me now.

I will check Bruce's tips as I remember his broom trick there and also recall his instructions for fixing the pitting if I need to do that part.

I will also search and find the size of studs needed as I remember somebody giving part numbers for those too.

Thank you very much, Royse!
 
I just did this job last weekend. It's so easy even I can do it. I had to loosen my alternator and remove the air intake tube and that was the toughest part. Just take your time and assemble everything clean and it'll go fine.
 
(quoted from post at 08:45:49 02/06/16) I just did this job last weekend. It's so easy even I can do it. I had to loosen my alternator and remove the air intake tube and that was the toughest part. Just take your time and assemble everything clean and it'll go fine.
Thanks for the advice and words of encouragement, Flatheadpete!
 
(quoted from post at 11:44:52 02/06/16)
(quoted from post at 08:20:34 02/06/16) In [b:23f6b9cdc4]this[/b:23f6b9cdc4] thread I posted a picture of a manifold
held on by bolts. It shouldn't have bolts, there should be studs
in the block and brass nuts on the outside where these bolt
heads are visible. Taking these bolts out lets antifreeze out.
It's also a PITA to hold the gasket in place. With studs you
can slide the gasket on the studs then slip the manifold on.

I clean the threads, test fit the studs, take them back out and
apply sealer to the threads and put them back in hand tight
plus about 1/8 turn. Brass nuts are torqued to 27 ft/lbs IIRC.

Bruce(VA) has a tip for using a floor jack on the exhaust pipe
as well as how to put the clamp on. It only goes one way up.

Obviously both surfaces must be clean. Check for pitting,
especially around #4 exhaust port on the block and manifold.
Bruce also has pictures/instructions for fixing that if needed.

Royse, thank you very much for the nice write up.

I read your thread about that manifold when you first posted it and reread it this morning and it has helped. My question was mainly about the studs but your explanation helped me realize that the studs you all are speaking of has no head on it. I was wondering how I'd get it installed but still be able to put the nut on the outside but now I'm realizing that the stud has no head on it and will screw into the block and then the nut will go on the outside. Makes sense to me now.

I will check Bruce's tips as I remember his broom trick there and also recall his instructions for fixing the pitting if I need to do that part.

I will also search and find the size of studs needed as I remember somebody giving part numbers for those too.

Thank you very much, Royse!
You're welcome!
The studs are 7/16-20 on one end, 7/16-14 on the block end.
Originally 1 5/8 inches long. Part #88403S2
2 inch ones work fine if you want to get them in town.
Just make sure the center unthreaded portion is short so it doesn't stick out
past the manifold or the nuts won't tighten enough to hold the manifold in.
 
I called Napa and they have the 1 ¾ inch studs there in stock along with the nuts so I'll be going to get them soon.

He told me the studs are a 7/16-14 (fine thread) on one side and 7/16-20 (course thread) on the other side. He said one of the sides (I think -14) is the side that the nut goes on. I'm hoping all of this sounds right to you guys because I'll be going to pick up the studs, nuts and sealer. When I get back I intend on tackling the job using the info you all have been kind enough to share with me. Thank you all very much. Without you guys these tractors would never get fixed.
 
(quoted from post at 09:03:16 02/06/16)
(quoted from post at 11:44:52 02/06/16)
(quoted from post at 08:20:34 02/06/16) In [b:5130301989]this[/b:5130301989] thread I posted a picture of a manifold
held on by bolts. It shouldn't have bolts, there should be studs
in the block and brass nuts on the outside where these bolt
heads are visible. Taking these bolts out lets antifreeze out.
It's also a PITA to hold the gasket in place. With studs you
can slide the gasket on the studs then slip the manifold on.

I clean the threads, test fit the studs, take them back out and
apply sealer to the threads and put them back in hand tight
plus about 1/8 turn. Brass nuts are torqued to 27 ft/lbs IIRC.

Bruce(VA) has a tip for using a floor jack on the exhaust pipe
as well as how to put the clamp on. It only goes one way up.

Obviously both surfaces must be clean. Check for pitting,
especially around #4 exhaust port on the block and manifold.
Bruce also has pictures/instructions for fixing that if needed.

Royse, thank you very much for the nice write up.

I read your thread about that manifold when you first posted it and reread it this morning and it has helped. My question was mainly about the studs but your explanation helped me realize that the studs you all are speaking of has no head on it. I was wondering how I'd get it installed but still be able to put the nut on the outside but now I'm realizing that the stud has no head on it and will screw into the block and then the nut will go on the outside. Makes sense to me now.

I will check Bruce's tips as I remember his broom trick there and also recall his instructions for fixing the pitting if I need to do that part.

I will also search and find the size of studs needed as I remember somebody giving part numbers for those too.

Thank you very much, Royse!
You're welcome!
The studs are 7/16-20 on one end, 7/16-14 on the block end.
Originally 1 5/8 inches long. Part #88403S2
2 inch ones work fine if you want to get them in town.
Just make sure the center unthreaded portion is short so it doesn't stick out
past the manifold or the nuts won't tighten enough to hold the manifold in.

Great! Thanks again, Royse.

When you say make sure the unthreaded portion is short, how short would you say I look for? Estimated length you think?
 
FYI - I have noted the -14 end of the stud goes to the block end of it. I had it switched around. Thanks for clarification!
 
Another question, sorry.

I have high temp silicone, will that work or should I get 'sealer'?

Reading Bruce's write up it says both, I just want to make sure the red high temp silicone I already have will work.


Thanks!
 
One thing I learned from an old timer - way
back in the 70s when I was messing with a GM
Qudrajet, is never, ever shake a carb, lay
it over or turn it upside down.
If there is any junk in the float bowl it
will shake around and get into the jets of
the carb.
Handle the carb gently and set it upright on
the bench so it can't tip over. Then install
it carefully.
Not so big a deal on a simple, updraft MS
carb but still worth paying attention to.
As for using brass nuts, I could ever get
them to tighten adequately without stripping
the darned things. I always used grade 8
nuts and gooped them up good with antiseize
compound.
 
I would use aluminum paint on both sides of manifold gasket, not silicone, you can get brass nuts for the manifold studs that will never seize.
 
The red RTV should work. It's sealing antifreeze around the stud.
Everyone has their favorite, so I just call it "sealer".

The unthreaded portion shouldn't be longer than your manifold
flange is thick, so 3/8 inch or so I'd guess. Might get away with
a half inch using the lockwasher to take up the extra space.

I just bought new ones for the tractor in that earlier post.
Unfortunately I eyeballed them, made sure they'd work and put
them in without measuring that part. Can't get to them now! LOL
 
Fellas, I sincerely appreciate your suggestions and tips shared with me. I ran into town and stopped by Napa and got the studs and nuts. I plan to tackle the job tomorrow as I was trying to get this stinking quad running (unsuccessfully) since I got back from town. I will use the red RTV I have on hand and will make sure I handle the carb with care.

I have been wondering which carb I have exactly with all of the carb talk lately so I'll clean it up real good and see what I can read on there to determine which one I have on there.

I swear I wish you all knew how much your help means to me. Without you kind people I would be lost. I really mean that. I hope yesterdaystractors ships you all's parts for free. You are the reason this place is what it is. From the bottom of my heart, I really appreciate you guys.

I'll post back tomorrow with my progress.
 
my post is a bit late, but don't forget to get some penetrant on those nuts before you start.
If they look yecch, waving the tiniest bit of heat at em helps.
(not too much with brass)

I'm still mad at myself for carefully checking for brass nuts on another brand tractor...all there, piece of cake....
and promptly snapping off the first stud.........never say never.
A touch of torch on the rest...and the broke stud in the vise..and all came off finger easy.
The next hour of fixing the broken flush stud gave me a lot of time to talk to myself.......harshly :D
 
(quoted from post at 05:38:47 02/07/16) my post is a bit late, but don't forget to get some penetrant on those nuts before you start.
If they look yecch, waving the tiniest bit of heat at em helps.
(not too much with brass)

I'm still mad at myself for carefully checking for brass nuts on another brand tractor...all there, piece of cake....
and promptly snapping off the first stud.........never say never.
A touch of torch on the rest...and the broke stud in the vise..and all came off finger easy.
The next hour of fixing the broken flush stud gave me a lot of time to talk to myself.......harshly :D
NNP- Thanks for the response. I will be sure to let the pentrant soak for a while before I take out the bolts. Thanks for the tip!
 
I have the manifold off and one of the gaskets was bad. I'm about to start cleaning the surfaces but didn't know if I should use a grinder or just some solvent and a brush?

Thanks for the help!
 
I wouldn't use an actual grinder. I use a gasket scraper.
If really bad I use a Roloc disk in a die grinder.
 
(quoted from post at 11:29:59 02/07/16) I wouldn't use an actual grinder. I use a gasket scraper.
If really bad I use a Roloc disk in a die grinder.

Royse, thanks for your quick reply. I sprayed the manifold off with power washer and scrubbed with brush and the block I scrubbed with a brush. I hadn't looked at the block yet until when I was just scrubbing it and I noticed some pitting on the back. I know Bruce's write up is about repairing the manifold but can I do the same repair on the block? (Pic below)
Thank you.
 
You may not need to.
From the picture yours doesn't look too bad.
Unless the picture is deceiving me?
Others may be able to see it better than I can.
 
(quoted from post at 12:04:41 02/07/16) You may not need to.
From the picture yours doesn't look too bad.
Unless the picture is deceiving me?
Others may be able to see it better than I can.

That's a breath of fresh air for me, I thought maybe it was pretty bad. That's coming from somebody who knows nothing about machine work and what might or might not need repaired.

I will take a look at one of these quads I can't seem to get running and I'll walk away from this manifold for a few and see if anybody else sees anything you might not see. You have a good eye so I don't think that's all that likely but I'll wait.

There is some pitting on the manifold also in the same spot(s) I see on the block so I think I might need to do the repair on the manifold. But if you think I may not need to here I'm wondering if I'd need to on the manifold. Maybe I should put it back together and see how long it goes. I guess the worst I'd be out would be a couple dollars on the gasket and a little of my time.
 

Post a pix of the manifold engine side if it looks like the block are worn thin your attempt to repair will be short lived...

I would not worry to much about the block any repair you make will go up in smoke over time. Its not that bad a job to replace the gaskets if need be every few years as long as the manifold is in good condition...

The gaskets are abrasive, the manifold expands and contracts its a constant action. Over time it destroys the manifold on anything where this type of gasket is used. In your case the rear port gets blasted all the time along with the few retaining bolts used its going to happen On your application I don't see away around it you have to use this style of gasket. I apply a light coat of Permatex Red ultra with copper. No matter what you use heat will destroy the sealer what happens to the ultra red is it turns to a power a powder that will act as a lube that will protect the gasket, manifold and head surface and seal small imperfections.

I have removed manifolds using Ultra Red after 5 years of use and the gasket was reusable if I needed to re-use it :shock: Try that dry...

Billy Bob will figure out a way to mess up a good thing one application does not mean its used across the board. Some manifolds use no gasket some don't. Lets use a small block chevy they left the factor with no gasket if the head and manifold are in good condition no gasket is needed. Billy Bob will see gaskets supplied in a kit are assume they are required so will use them from there its all down hill the gasket will eat away at the manifold.

I don't miss this old gasket technology, Modern exhaust manifold gaskets are made of uncoated, beaded multilayer steel. :D
 
Hobo, thanks for the post and thorough explanation. I have noted to grab some Permatex Red ultra with copper while I'm at the store. I will use it as you described. I thought maybe some pics would help so I took some while I was outside working on the quad.

Here are the ones I took, if better ones are needing I will get them. I'm thinking maybe a manifold is needed but as you well know I DON'T KNOW SHEET lol. I appreciate your post and look forward to your thoughts on the manifold condition.







 
i had to replace my manifold(s) a couple of summers ago. this isn't an endorsement, but i'll say the rear port on yours looks better than mine did. it had a channel forming that was gonna start letting mice in ;)
 
The intake and exhaust ports should look the same the manifold has seen better days its still usable. The metal around the exhaust port is flaking off I would not get to carried away trying to get it smooth you never will.. It could be resurfaced but the machine cost again a new one makes a new manifold a deal...

Seal it and install a gasket next time have a new manifold in hand...
 
HFJ, Hobo - Thank you both for your response and the help. I will do exactly as you suggest, Hobo, and I'll go get the Permatex Red you recommended and I'll put it back together and have a new manifold ready next time. Thank you very much for being willing to help out us eager greenhorns :). We appreciate it!!
 
I'm looking on our local stores sites and the only 'ultra copper' they have is this one...

I know it's not red but will this work or should I order this stuff ...


I want to make sure I get the right stuff and do it properly.

Thanks!
 
I have always used the one in the gold tube I did not know they had a max temp RTV... Your call looks like either would work...

I would save the applicator that comes with it and just use my finger to spread it...

When I use the applicator I take them off and throw them in a small capped container of gas. It will soften the RTV I can blow it out with compressed air when done I string them on a wire for future use... I have 20/30 cut for different applications...
 

Nutter question do have access to compressed air... Is so get ya one of these... I am gonna at random pick out one I do like IF air tools tho I use a Snap-on chisel...



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899

Now you are gonna need one of these to complement the deal... Its a needle scaler that will mount to your air hammer... I could not find a link to just the scaler I got mine at harbor freight for $20 are so. I brought a dedicated needle scaler end of last year its a P.O.S.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-SX246-P...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9

This is the P.O.S scaler I got from HF

http://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneum...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9
 
(quoted from post at 16:45:41 02/07/16)
Nutter question do have access to compressed air... Is so get ya one of these... I am gonna at random pick out one I do like IF air tools tho I use a Snap-on chisel...



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899

Now you are gonna need one of these to complement the deal... Its a needle scaler that will mount to your air hammer... I could not find a link to just the scaler I got mine at harbor freight for $20 are so. I brought a dedicated needle scaler end of last year its a P.O.S.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-SX246-P...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9

This is the P.O.S scaler I got from HF

http://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneum...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9


I will grab the gold ultra then, that's what the store has but I thought you meant the red stuff. I wanted to verify before I grab some.

Yes, I do have a compressor. Do you think I should get one of those air hammer and chisel setup to clean up the manifold and block some before I do the gasket replacement? I think you're suggesting I do, I just want to make sure. I will have to run to Dallas to go to Harbor Freight, that's the closest one to me.

I appreciate your help
 
(quoted from post at 17:11:59 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 16:45:41 02/07/16)
Nutter question do have access to compressed air... Is so get ya one of these... I am gonna at random pick out one I do like IF air tools tho I use a Snap-on chisel...



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899

Now you are gonna need one of these to complement the deal... Its a needle scaler that will mount to your air hammer... I could not find a link to just the scaler I got mine at harbor freight for $20 are so. I brought a dedicated needle scaler end of last year its a P.O.S.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-SX246-P...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9

This is the P.O.S scaler I got from HF

http://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneum...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9


I will grab the gold ultra then, that's what the store has but I thought you meant the red stuff. I wanted to verify before I grab some.

Yes, I do have a compressor. Do you think I should get one of those air hammer and chisel setup to clean up the manifold and block some before I do the gasket replacement? I think you're suggesting I do, I just want to make sure. I will have to run to Dallas to go to Harbor Freight, that's the closest one to me.

I appreciate your help

And thanks for the links!
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:59 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 16:45:41 02/07/16)
Nutter question do have access to compressed air... Is so get ya one of these... I am gonna at random pick out one I do like IF air tools tho I use a Snap-on chisel...



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899

Now you are gonna need one of these to complement the deal... Its a needle scaler that will mount to your air hammer... I could not find a link to just the scaler I got mine at harbor freight for $20 are so. I brought a dedicated needle scaler end of last year its a P.O.S.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-SX246-P...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9

This is the P.O.S scaler I got from HF

http://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneum...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9


I will grab the gold ultra then, that's what the store has but I thought you meant the red stuff. I wanted to verify before I grab some.

Yes, I do have a compressor. Do you think I should get one of those air hammer and chisel setup to clean up the manifold and block some before I do the gasket replacement? I think you're suggesting I do, I just want to make sure. I will have to run to Dallas to go to Harbor Freight, that's the closest one to me.

I appreciate your help
BT, sorry, been playing with the grandkids, haven't gotten back
on here. I agree with Hobo's assessment about sealing and using
until you need to replace it. I would clean the manifold more.

Take a look back at my original link. You have that same weird
manifold that I have. Not original, not even a good copy.
You will need awfully long studs to use that one. 3 inches or more?

If you need an aftermarket replacement with the flat flange like
the one in the bottom of this picture, I have an extra one.
I'd give it to you if you pay the shipping.
In fact, the one I'm offering IS the one in this picture.
I ended up using an original I had on the shelf.

I have a needle gun and a air chisel. Neither are needed here.
I'm not sure where Hobo was going with that, but he usually
has a "method to his madness". He knows what he's doing.

32211.jpg
 
If you need an aftermarket replacement with the flat flange like
the one in the bottom of this picture, I have an extra one.

ah, i had forgotten about that thread. i looked at mine, and all 4 nuts are still the brass nuts, all 11/16". the manifold i got is just too fat. even after the grinding i did, i can still only use a cheap socket i had laying around - none of my decent sockets will fit on the front nut, they're too thick.
 
(quoted from post at 19:17:55 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 20:11:59 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 16:45:41 02/07/16)
Nutter question do have access to compressed air... Is so get ya one of these... I am gonna at random pick out one I do like IF air tools tho I use a Snap-on chisel...



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899

Now you are gonna need one of these to complement the deal... Its a needle scaler that will mount to your air hammer... I could not find a link to just the scaler I got mine at harbor freight for $20 are so. I brought a dedicated needle scaler end of last year its a P.O.S.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-SX246-P...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9

This is the P.O.S scaler I got from HF

http://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneum...60_SR160,160_&refRID=1X5MP3YEPN2SJEN37PW9


I will grab the gold ultra then, that's what the store has but I thought you meant the red stuff. I wanted to verify before I grab some.

Yes, I do have a compressor. Do you think I should get one of those air hammer and chisel setup to clean up the manifold and block some before I do the gasket replacement? I think you're suggesting I do, I just want to make sure. I will have to run to Dallas to go to Harbor Freight, that's the closest one to me.

I appreciate your help
BT, sorry, been playing with the grandkids, haven't gotten back
on here. I agree with Hobo's assessment about sealing and using
until you need to replace it. I would clean the manifold more.

Take a look back at my original link. You have that same weird
manifold that I have. Not original, not even a good copy.
You will need awfully long studs to use that one. 3 inches or more?

If you need an aftermarket replacement with the flat flange like
the one in the bottom of this picture, I have an extra one.
I'd give it to you if you pay the shipping.
In fact, the one I'm offering IS the one in this picture.
I ended up using an original I had on the shelf.

I have a needle gun and a air chisel. Neither are needed here.
I'm not sure where Hobo was going with that, but he usually
has a "method to his madness". He knows what he's doing.

32211.jpg

Royse, no need to apologize. Spend as much time with them as you possibly can. Thanks for getting back and responding though!

I had a good feeling that the manifold I have needed to be cleaned more but I didn't want to do too much and make my situation worse. I knew it didn't look like you all post, your surfaces look brand new and mine looks old and worn lol.

You're very kind for offering to give me that manifold, very kind, thank you very much. I would be happy to pay shipping and would feel better if you'd take a few dollars for the manifold too.

I did not notice that this one is the same as the one you posted in your previous post. I remember reading it when you posted and of course I didn't notice anything out of place lol. I didn't know there was a difference in manifolds as far as the flat flange goes. I appreciate you educating me along the way, that's why I'm here, I have a lot to learn and eager to do so.

I will hold off on installing this manifold and put on the one you're offering to me so I have a more proper one.

I appreciate your generosity, Royse. Please let me know how to pay you and I'll get it done. I have no idea on how much it'll cost and I'm sure you ship often so you'll have the best estimate.

Thank you!
 

I would clean the manifold more.

Nuttin better I can think of than a needle scaler to do the job...
Its either going to make it better are knock off that flaky metal that you will not replace are grind off... If it does the decision to replace it will be EZ'er...

If it was a hard to get part are expensive I would spend the bucks to save it. Its not nor labor intensive, quit fudgen with it seal it install it and put a manifold on your wish list...

I see so many manifolds I did not notice it was one of those odd replacement manifolds. I have one and sort of like it over the original I may would spend the bucks to save it. If ford would have put a bolt on each end the decision would be EZ save it... If that were the case I would turn it into a split manifold and put a end to the inherited issue..
 
(quoted from post at 19:48:54 02/07/16)
I would clean the manifold more.

Nuttin better I can think of than a needle scaler to do the job...
Its either going to make it better are knock off that flaky metal that you will not replace are grind off... If it does the decision to replace it will be EZ'er...

If it was a hard to get part are expensive I would spend the bucks to save it. Its not nor labor intensive, quit fudgen with it seal it install it and put a manifold on your wish list...

I see so many manifolds I did not notice it was one of those odd replacement manifolds. I have one and sort of like it over the original I may would spend the bucks to save it. If ford would have put a bolt on each end the decision would be EZ save it... If that were the case I would turn it into a split manifold and put a end to the inherited issue..

Thanks for the reply, Hobo!

lol Now I'm torn... do I just use this one and put a manifold on my 'wish' list? That would keep Royse's manifold in his possession and I would be able to get this tractor running sooner. I thought maybe it would be easier to use the manifold from Royse rather than trying to figure out how long of studs I will need now that we've figured out this manifold uses longer ones. Well, I guess I could take the bolts I took out up to Napa and they could just match them up. Sounds easy. Think it would be? HAHA. Not my luck.
 
(quoted from post at 22:48:54 02/07/16)
I would clean the manifold more.

Nuttin better I can think of than a needle scaler to do the job...
Its either going to make it better are knock off that flaky metal that you will not replace are grind off... If it does the decision to replace it will be EZ'er...

If it was a hard to get part are expensive I would spend the bucks to save it. Its not nor labor intensive, quit fudgen with it seal it install it and put a manifold on your wish list...

I see so many manifolds I did not notice it was one of those odd replacement manifolds. I have one and sort of like it over the original I may would spend the bucks to save it. If ford would have put a bolt on each end the decision would be EZ save it... If that were the case I would turn it into a split manifold and put a end to the inherited issue..
Now I see where you were going with the needle scaler.
Doesn't do much for smoothness, but definitely gets rid of rust/scale.
The aftermarkets like these ones seem like they would flex more.
That may be bad under heating/cooling cycles, or it may be good
when trying to seal an uneven surface. I can't say for sure.
Mine seems to run better with the original style than it did with that one.
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:45 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 22:48:54 02/07/16)
I would clean the manifold more.

Nuttin better I can think of than a needle scaler to do the job...
Its either going to make it better are knock off that flaky metal that you will not replace are grind off... If it does the decision to replace it will be EZ'er...

If it was a hard to get part are expensive I would spend the bucks to save it. Its not nor labor intensive, quit fudgen with it seal it install it and put a manifold on your wish list...

I see so many manifolds I did not notice it was one of those odd replacement manifolds. I have one and sort of like it over the original I may would spend the bucks to save it. If ford would have put a bolt on each end the decision would be EZ save it... If that were the case I would turn it into a split manifold and put a end to the inherited issue..
Now I see where you were going with the needle scaler.
Doesn't do much for smoothness, but definitely gets rid of rust/scale.
The aftermarkets like these ones seem like they would flex more.
That may be bad under heating/cooling cycles, or it may be good
when trying to seal an uneven surface. I can't say for sure.
Mine seems to run better with the original style than it did with that one.

I sent you an email, Royse. I'm not sure how to open my email on here, I thought it was open because I get notices on my email. I'll look into that. I'm all about the tractor running better so I'll be very appreciative if you don't mind letting me use that manifold. I can't thank you enough, very nice of you to even offer it to me. Thanks again.
 
(quoted from post at 23:45:27 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 20:11:45 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 22:48:54 02/07/16)
I would clean the manifold more.

Nuttin better I can think of than a needle scaler to do the job...
Its either going to make it better are knock off that flaky metal that you will not replace are grind off... If it does the decision to replace it will be EZ'er...

If it was a hard to get part are expensive I would spend the bucks to save it. Its not nor labor intensive, quit fudgen with it seal it install it and put a manifold on your wish list...

I see so many manifolds I did not notice it was one of those odd replacement manifolds. I have one and sort of like it over the original I may would spend the bucks to save it. If ford would have put a bolt on each end the decision would be EZ save it... If that were the case I would turn it into a split manifold and put a end to the inherited issue..
Now I see where you were going with the needle scaler.
Doesn't do much for smoothness, but definitely gets rid of rust/scale.
The aftermarkets like these ones seem like they would flex more.
That may be bad under heating/cooling cycles, or it may be good
when trying to seal an uneven surface. I can't say for sure.
Mine seems to run better with the original style than it did with that one.

I sent you an email, Royse. I'm not sure how to open my email on here, I thought it was open because I get notices on my email. I'll look into that. I'm all about the tractor running better so I'll be very appreciative if you don't mind letting me use that manifold. I can't thank you enough, very nice of you to even offer it to me. Thanks again.
Using modern view, as it appears you are, you go into your
profile and change the setting there. On Classic view you enter
it on each post if you want it to be visible.
I haven't got your email yet. If you typed the address make
sure you spelled Royse with an S instead of a C. Happens a lot.
 
(quoted from post at 20:54:01 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 23:45:27 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 20:11:45 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 22:48:54 02/07/16)
I would clean the manifold more.

Nuttin better I can think of than a needle scaler to do the job...
Its either going to make it better are knock off that flaky metal that you will not replace are grind off... If it does the decision to replace it will be EZ'er...

If it was a hard to get part are expensive I would spend the bucks to save it. Its not nor labor intensive, quit fudgen with it seal it install it and put a manifold on your wish list...

I see so many manifolds I did not notice it was one of those odd replacement manifolds. I have one and sort of like it over the original I may would spend the bucks to save it. If ford would have put a bolt on each end the decision would be EZ save it... If that were the case I would turn it into a split manifold and put a end to the inherited issue..
Now I see where you were going with the needle scaler.
Doesn't do much for smoothness, but definitely gets rid of rust/scale.
The aftermarkets like these ones seem like they would flex more.
That may be bad under heating/cooling cycles, or it may be good
when trying to seal an uneven surface. I can't say for sure.
Mine seems to run better with the original style than it did with that one.

I sent you an email, Royse. I'm not sure how to open my email on here, I thought it was open because I get notices on my email. I'll look into that. I'm all about the tractor running better so I'll be very appreciative if you don't mind letting me use that manifold. I can't thank you enough, very nice of you to even offer it to me. Thanks again.
Using modern view, as it appears you are, you go into your
profile and change the setting there. On Classic view you enter
it on each post if you want it to be visible.
I haven't got your email yet. If you typed the address make
sure you spelled Royse with an S instead of a C. Happens a lot.

Thanks for the explanation, I'll go into my profile and make sure it's open. I copy/pasted what you typed and just double checked and it's correct. I'll copy/paste my message into a new one and resend right now. Thanks for letting me know, I assumed you received it.
 
(quoted from post at 00:03:05 02/08/16)
(quoted from post at 20:54:01 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 23:45:27 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 20:11:45 02/07/16)
(quoted from post at 22:48:54 02/07/16)
I would clean the manifold more.

Nuttin better I can think of than a needle scaler to do the job...
Its either going to make it better are knock off that flaky metal that you will not replace are grind off... If it does the decision to replace it will be EZ'er...

If it was a hard to get part are expensive I would spend the bucks to save it. Its not nor labor intensive, quit fudgen with it seal it install it and put a manifold on your wish list...

I see so many manifolds I did not notice it was one of those odd replacement manifolds. I have one and sort of like it over the original I may would spend the bucks to save it. If ford would have put a bolt on each end the decision would be EZ save it... If that were the case I would turn it into a split manifold and put a end to the inherited issue..
Now I see where you were going with the needle scaler.
Doesn't do much for smoothness, but definitely gets rid of rust/scale.
The aftermarkets like these ones seem like they would flex more.
That may be bad under heating/cooling cycles, or it may be good
when trying to seal an uneven surface. I can't say for sure.
Mine seems to run better with the original style than it did with that one.

I sent you an email, Royse. I'm not sure how to open my email on here, I thought it was open because I get notices on my email. I'll look into that. I'm all about the tractor running better so I'll be very appreciative if you don't mind letting me use that manifold. I can't thank you enough, very nice of you to even offer it to me. Thanks again.
Using modern view, as it appears you are, you go into your
profile and change the setting there. On Classic view you enter
it on each post if you want it to be visible.
I haven't got your email yet. If you typed the address make
sure you spelled Royse with an S instead of a C. Happens a lot.

Thanks for the explanation, I'll go into my profile and make sure it's open. I copy/pasted what you typed and just double checked and it's correct. I'll copy/paste my message into a new one and resend right now. Thanks for letting me know, I assumed you received it.
I got it this time. Just sent you a reply.
 
(quoted from post at 17:32:05 02/08/16)
Took me awhile to find the add on scaler for a air hammer/chisel...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200113724_200113724

Used mine today to knock the dirt off a safety neutral switch so I could take it off. The truck lives life on a farm it has years of caked on dirt :evil:

Hobo, thanks a lot for the links. I know I need an air hammer but I didn't even know there was a such thing as a scaler. You learn something everyday and since I've been frequenting this site most of my learning comes from you nice people. I will be getting this stuff very soon to be able to use.

Because of the trouble Royse was going to have to go through to get a decent price on shipping for me on the manifold I'm going to just use the one I have here for now. I need to run up and get that sealer and some longer studs tomorrow and then hope to attempt the install after that. I'll post back my results.
 
(quoted from post at 22:46:00 02/08/16)
Shipping on a manifold can be a deal killer... It is what it is
Shipping can be fun. Especially Michigan to Texas or California.
Works out to about half the price of a new aftermarket one.
And this one is an aftermarket manifold, obviously not new.
 
They're pretty heavy so I'm not too surprised shipping is that much. Whether or not Royse ships the manifold or not I still take his offer the same as a shipped manifold. It means just as much to me and I'm very thankful for that.

That goes for everything you all do for me. I'm very thankful for all of you.
 

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