Problems starting my Ford 8N

ASNITRO

New User
Hello,

I'm having problems getting my Ford 8n tractor to start. This tractor has been converted to a 12v system. We are getting fuel to the carbarator, and the spark plugs are getting spark. But when I checked voltage from a wire coming out of the resistor block, going into another resistor and going into the coil. There is no voltage. I have no wiring diagram, so I'm pretty much lost.

Thanks,

Aaron
 
Front or side distributor?

Two resistors? See tip #30 at the link.

Google "wiring diagrams JMOR " and find the
diagram that fits your tractor.

But you don't need a wiring diagram to find
the problem. Just start at the battery and
follow the volts. Hint: check the ignition
swich.
75 Tips
 
Tractor has a Side distributor. There are two resistors. The two wire resistor sets on top of the resistor block. Voltage is coming out of the ignition switch going into the resistor block, but no voltage getting to the other resistor that goes to the coil.

http://www.external_link.com/217-ford-n-faq-stickies-section/154489-9n-2n-8n-wire-diagrams.html

Mine is diagram 4

Thanks,

Aaron
 
NITRO.........you have NO voltage going thru the 12-to-6 volt converting resistor and also the MANDATORY "infamous" ballast resistor and you wonder WHY you kant start yer tractor??? Would it surprize you to learn that you NEED both the resistors to carry the volts to the 1-terminal square can coil??? Them 2-RESISTORS are just like yer house lites, iff'n one don't work, they BOTH don't work. simple, eh? In electric speek, thata a SERIES circuit, just like yer old time christmas tree lites. BTW, ennytime you kant gittchur engine to start, CHANGE yer sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean-n-dry 'em, one-atta-time in HOT runnin' engine and save'um fer the NEXT time. (and there will be a NEXT time) .......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister and electrician
 
hey NITRO........the 5-nipple dizzy does NOT have the "infamous" ballast resistor like the weird 4-nipple front mount. You kenn count nipples, kent you???........respectfully, Dell

BTW, when converting the 5-nipple side mount, we recommend a REAL 12-volt coil and NO RESISTORS EVER.
Recommend NAPA IC-4SB. ($18, cheap)
 
Dell,

your going to have to speak layman terms to me. I'm just a country boy out Tennessee, and I'm not speaking your language.
 
(quoted from post at 20:57:27 01/30/16) He said check out tip #30. ;)
75 Tips

If you are doing a 12-volt conversion, it's easier to use a "12-volt" coil. That is a front coil with at least 2.5 ohms of internal resistance or a side coil with 3.25 ohms internal resistance. You can use the 6-volt coil with an additional external resistor, but most folks do not have the time or interest to accurately measure coil resistance to determine the necessary value of the additional resistor. (You always need the OEM ballast resistor with a front coil even if you use a 12 volt coil)

The tractor has been converted to 12v, I don't know how to tell if the side coil has 3.25 ohms internal resistance. "(You always need the OEM ballast resistor with a front coil even if you use a 12 volt coil)". Which one is the OEM ballast resistor?
 
If you are doing a 12-volt conversion, it's easier to use a "12-volt" coil. That is a front coil with at least 2.5 ohms of internal resistance or a side coil with 3.25 ohms internal resistance. You can use the 6-volt coil with an additional external resistor, but most folks do not have the time or interest to accurately measure coil resistance to determine the necessary value of the additional resistor. (You always need the OEM ballast resistor with a front coil even if you use a 12 volt coil)

The tractor has been converted to 12 volts. I don't know if the side coil is 3.25 ohms. What is the OEM ballast resistor?
 
NITRO........pay attention.......the 5-nipple side mount NEVER used the "infamous" ballast resistor, understand??? Bubbas el-cheapo 12-volt conversion uses the original 3-terminal roundcan coil and a 12-to-6 volt converting resistor. The converting resistor is NOT the ballast resistor which is used ONLY for the 4-nipple front mount dizzy. You kann count nipples, kant you???

As fer yer 12-volt going into and coming outta yer resistor.....yes and no.....the goes outta changes from 12-volts to ZERO-volts depending whether the points are OPEN (12-volts) ...or... CLOSED (zero-volts) UNDERSTAND???

I've been advising on 12-volt conversions since 1997 just after Yesterday Tractors went on line, buttcha know what? I STILL haven't converted my eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N........respectfully, Dell
 
" What is the OEM ballast resistor? "

It's highly unlikely that the picture you posted is a ballast resistor, It's most likely a fixed resistor. The OEM ballast resistor, used on N's w/ a front coil, has .03 ohms cold & 1.7 ohms hot.

Regardless, if your tractor has a SIDE coil, it should NOT have the OEM ballast resistor.

The only reason it has any resistor(s) at all is because someone decided to use the 6 volt coil when they converted it to 12 volts.

" I don't know if the side coil is 3.25 ohms"

Measure it w/ an ohm meter. Or just assume it's 6 volts & put a 12 volt coil on it. NAPA IC14SB will work fine with NO resistors.
IMG_20140929_102542_438_zpsc6a740eb.jpg

75 Tips
 

Here is the 2 wire resistor. Right below it is a 4 terminal resistor. Also, here is the distributor/coil. Would this be a side mount or a front mount? If I had a wiring schematic and some pictures on how the suppose to be wired I would be able to figure it out, quickly. But there is so-much information out there I'm kind of lost on how everything works.

Thanks,

Aaron

:D
 
I finally got the tractor started and then the radiator started shooting water out of the top. I hurried up and shutdown the tractor. Now the tractor won't start again. Voltage sometimes reads at the 2 terminal resistor. I really think there is something wrong with the 4 terminal resistor, but I can't get the hood off to fix it.
 
at the bottom of the dog legs of the engine hood there are bolts you nee to remove. then you gotta lift it out. Be careful the grill likes to fallout once the bolts are removed
 
Thanks 92, one of the bolts is stripped and might have to be cut out.

I have a front mount distributor. What resistors do I need with a front mount system?

Front or Side Mount Distributor for Ford 8N
If the generator or alternator is on the right side of the tractor, then the tractor has a front
mount distributor. If the generator or alternator is on the left hand side of the tractor,
then the tractor has a side mount distributor.
Note: The side of the tractor is from the point of view of the operator (sitting in
the seat).
 
Dude I don't know, I have a side dist and I'm keeping mine a 6 volt... But look for a guy on here named "Bruce", in his signature there is a link for 75 tips. Pretty sure what you need is addressed in those tips.

There is also another guy on here "Dell" he is also very knowledgeable as well. Sometimes it is hard for me to understand what he is trying to say to me though...
 
It is a front mount distributor. You need the original ballast
resistor that Bruce pictured. Whether or not you need any other
resistor depends on whether you have a 6V or 12V coil.
I personally get rid of all those ceramic ones.

Here is a copy of one of JMOR's diagrams.
It may not be the right one for your alternator setup, since I
haven't seen that part of your tractor but Google will find you
other great diagrams JMOR created.

32465.jpg
 
" Would this be a side mount or a front mount? "

The words mean something.

If it's a FRONT mount distributor, that means the distributor is mounted on the FRONT of the engine. As that distributor is mounted on the FRONT of your engine, you have a FRONT mount distributor 8N.

" If I had a wiring schematic and some pictures on how the suppose to be wired I would be able to figure it out, quickly. But there is so-much information out there I'm kind of lost on how everything works."

Yes, there is a lot of information out there, so that's why I specifically told you to Google "wiring diagrams JMOR". Do you not know how to do that?
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 20:53:52 01/31/16)
i think I'm keeping my 61 6 volt too. it seems like its a can of worms otherwise :D

since politics are big in the news now, with caucuses, primaries, and a national election coming up, i'm gonna support the "equal time" doctrine.

i am one of the people (and i suspect there are more of us than u think ;) ) who converted to 12v and have had no problems. i paid about $100 for the conversion kit, and i only have one complaint - they supplied me with a fan belt which works, but barely. it required me to put the alternator pivot bolt in last, because the belt wasn't long enough to clear the pulley, even with the alternator touching the manifolds.

problem solved, i just picked up a belt that's 3 inches longer. cost me a whole 11 bucks, and now i have a good usable backup belt if anything should happen to the new one.

the conversion itself was easy to do, and i won't go back to 6 volts now, even on a double-dog dare :D
 
(quoted from post at 20:16:05 01/30/16) hey NITRO........the 5-nipple dizzy does NOT have the "infamous" ballast resistor like the weird 4-nipple front mount. You kenn count nipples, kent you???........respectfully, Dell

BTW, when converting the 5-nipple side mount, we recommend a REAL 12-volt coil and NO RESISTORS EVER.
Recommend NAPA IC-4SB. ($18, cheap)
Gentlemen,
would this coil ( NAPA IC-4SB) be suitable for a 2n with a gutted front mount coil? No resistor(s) would be great!
 

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